O-I_C

[rib33024]

97 G16 and there is some play in the steering how do i solve the play problem thanks!






http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...html#post39516

[rib33024]

ITS sensor and micro switch - EZGO


http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...tml#post965817

[rib33024]

Good PDF on Batteries



http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.eWU&cad=rja



https://www.google.com/#q=+way+to+cl...cart+batteries

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Battery sulfation and How to Prevent it




http://batteryuniversity.com/learn/a...to_prevent_it/

[rib33024]

cart bodys


http://store.uslegendcars.com/site/d...173441B625D59D




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Reverse buzzer diconnect

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

In today's litigious society, I'd think long and hard about disabling the beeper. (Read attached article)

Just quietening it down a bit may be more defensible in court.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...rse-buzzer.pdf

[rib33024]

]

http://www.forlang.wsu.edu/help/keyboards.asp

[rib33024]

,,,

Originally Posted by Mrjonman

1. Is it purely longevity that sets all the different brands apart?

2. I have a Sam's membership, but online all they show is Energizer and Duracell, which I would think are no good?

3. I know everyone says Trojan are the best, but would I get the same longevity from say a Napa brand?

4. Also, does it matter which model # you go with? If so, how do I know which one?

Thanks in advance for my newb questions

EDIT: yes I read the battery comparison sticky....that's mostly gibberish to me tho lol

JohnnieB




1. Longevity is one of the yardsticks used for comparisons, however there several factors the contribute to longevity; And some of the contributing factors reside in the application (Cart, Driver, Terrain, Climate, Maintenance, Etc) rather than the battery itself.

In general terms, there are more differences between different grades of batteries within the same brand than there are between the same grade of batteries in different brands.

2. Energizer and Duracell cart batteries fall into the same category as Store brands, they are re-labeled products from one or more major battery manufacturers. Sometimes the fine print on the label will say who the manufacturer is, but not always.

Also, the manufacturer for re-labeled batteries change, so the re-labeled batteries someone had a good, or bad, experience with might not be the same batteries currently being sold by the same vendor.

3. Trojan was the best, but now that is debatable. Personally, I believe it is a five-way tie between Crown, Deka, Exide, Trojan and US Battery. It should be noted that many re-labeled batteries are made by these manufacturers.

NAPA golf cart batteries used to be made by Exide, but I believe they are now made be East Penn (Deka). The 8144 is the economy grade and won't last as long as the 8146, which is the standard grade.

4. The Model# is important because different models have different Amp-Hour ratings and the AH @ the 20 hour rate is the most important factor.

The de facto standard for a 36V battery pack is 225AH. With other factors equal, higher AH rated batteries will have greater longevity and lower AH rated batteries won't last as long.

The best bang for the buck is typically buying the highest Amp-Hour batteries you can afford at the lowest price you can find locally.

[rib33024]

Duromax generator/starter wiring

[rib33024]

Torque table Dana.pdf



http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...tml#post947974

[rib33024]

EZGO electric to gas


http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/clone...in-212-hf.html

[rib33024]

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/attac...-comet-94c.pdf





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Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The problem may be corrosion between the ring terminal and the cable conductors. See attached.

The atmosphere in the battery compartment is corrosive, so you want the ring terminals to be closed on the ring end so the copper strands of the cable are not exposed and the gap between the barrel and cable insulation to be sealed air tight.

If any cable gets more than slightly warm (about 10°F above ambient air temperature), it needs to be fixed or replaced.

Another possibility is overtightened nuts on the battery studs. The studs are simply hex-head bolts with the head embedded in the lead posts. Too much torque will move the bolts in the soft lead, creating an air-gap, which allows corrosion to form between bolt head and lead post.
Max torque on the stud type terminal is about 95 In/Lb, which is only 8 Ft/Lb.

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Any 8V battery with 170AH or more, will give you better run-time.