O-I_C

rib33024 · 01-27-2010, 03:28 AM

converting ezgo axle from electric to gas use

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hello everyone. i have been building up an old ezgo monster and thought i would share some experience here. i havnt heard of many people doing these conversions. they all say buy a new axle. that is the way to go, but, for those who have limited incomes and have tools and some know how, it is possible. keep in mind though, gas engine carts have reverse built into them. electric axles do not. the electric motor changed polarity for reverse, you will only drive forward unless you rig a revesre box into it. here is what i did. it took me maybe a day to get it all done. the right tools definately help.

about my cart. i got a hold of an early 70's model cart in bad shape. i found some heavy duty springs with shocks inside them and set them up at each corner. i widened the front a few inches to match the rear axle width for better stability and lifted the heck out of it. the rear suspension changed from leaf springs to a 3 point coil over. each wheel has about 1.5 feet of travel, instead of the stock 3 inches or so. for those who don't know, it is the suspension articulation under different terrain. i put on some 22" kenda dirt dogs with 10 inch rims. i had a 13 horsepower gas engine and wanted to put it to work. you can do alot with a welder and some scrape metal. anyway, now for what you came to read!

if you have looked at these axles you will see that the electric motor also serves as the seal for the differential, as well as receives the splines from the pinion shaft. to make it work i needed the seal so the oil wouldn't leak and the splined connection for power transfer.

i took the electric motor apart and cleaned up the pieces i needed. i cut out about a 4 inch square around the seal from the backplate of the motor that held the motor to the axle and bolted it back in place. that gave me my seal.

next i cut away parts from the motor stator, the coils and magnets, to get to the core. once i got to the core, i used a chop saw to cut flush the splined end of the stator. it is pretty thick so the chop saw is best to cut all the way through. a hacksaw might take 2 years to get through. it then looked like a hub. it had the same end that fit into the seal and mated with the splined shaft for connection.

that solved the seal and connection to the spline but i still needed the piece to stay in place. i cut the hub so that when it was assembled, there was a little bit of the splined pinion shaft sticking out the end. i used a narrow cut off wheel and made a cut all the way around the splined shaft. then i got a spring style hose clamp to fit in the grove. that keeps the hub in place.

i took the hub out again and drilled four holes in it. i then welded some bolts in the holes and ground them smooth on the side that faces the seal. the brake was a large drum attatched on the other side of the motor shaft. it had a 3/4 bore. p.s. so does the splined pinion shaft. i used a step bit to widen the drum bore slightly on the side that would face the seal so it would go over the spring clip i used to keep the hub in place. you want the splined shaft to fit into the brake drum enough to keep the drum centered. i also drilled the holes to match up with the hub bolts. the drum is like 4 inches deep or so. i welded a keyed shaft in the bore of the drum on the other side long enough to hold the comet clutch i am using and to hold a 2 bolt pillow block for added stability. with the hub put in place, i bolted up the drum, inserted the clutch, added the bearing and welded structural support for it, set it up and off i went. no problems with leaking or vibration or anything. if you have a lathe you can true up your surfaces, but in this case, i think close counts. the final drive from pinion to wheel is about 6:1. with the 40 series clutch i am using and the 13 horsepower motor it is plenty strong for hill climbs and mudding or towing. i often tow a trailer with firewood through rough stuff and it does fine.

anyway, thanks for reading. hope it helped. the wife was mad at me and wouldn't talk tonight so i thought i'd do something else and maybe help someone out. good luck!
Attached Thumbnails

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Welcome

Interesting, why is your wife mad at you?

WW

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Not a good way to start the new year!!

Anyway, can you post more pics of the drive assy? sounds very interesting.
On another note, not really seeing how you're getting the 1.5 feet or 18" of wheel travel you mentioned.

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hey there,

thanks to those who have viewed my thread. hope something helped.
the wife was mad because i spend too much time in the garage she says.

i've attatched some more photos, here you can see the articulation on the suspension. all wheels are touching the ground except the one on the jackstand. i hadn't put a tape to it before so forgive me. its closer to 16 inches rather than 18. but still i think it is impressive for a cart.

also i attached some photos of the axle assembly i made. at first i was setting it up for a chain drive and centrifugal clutch but then i learner of the pulley system and thought i would try that. the difference is i removed the sprocket and cut the end off the brake hub and flipped it so it would mount flush with the armature hub and bolt up like the sprocket did. in the pictures, you will see the first set up and clearly visible is thew square seal. that was the electric motor backplate. the hub piece was the armature, or what is left of it. also there is a photo of my speedometer. i used one from a bike, did the math and found the correcect circumfrence and now i have my speed +/- 2 mph.

rib33024 · 01-27-2010, 04:28 AM

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A short history of the PG engine, enjoy.

-In 1976 the so-called '2pg'--a 244cc, Fuji Heavy Industries/Robin Engine--with an internal starter generator (st/gen), became standard. Repair parts are still available except for the crankshaft assembly, the voltage regulator/starter relay and the internal st/gen stator & field.

-In 1980, an external, Hitachi brand starter generator was introduced and the engine was modified. The crank bearings, drive clutch, point set & condenser, voltage regulator and the engine frame all changed.

-1981 ushered in an electronic ignition system, which did away with the golf carts point set & condenser altogether, and the point activator lobe on the crankshaft soon went away too. Except for the addition of an oil injection system, this engine went virually unchanged until 1989 when the 3pg golf cart engine replaced it. Although the two engines are similar, many parts are very different.

-1983 was the oddball year for the 2pg engine. The muffler was placed behind the engine and it layed down instead of standing up. The '83 golf cart had a different engine frame, muffler & exhaust stack. It only lasted one year though...lots of problems.

In '84 the E-Z-GO golf cart went back to the old exhaust system & stand-up muffler on the driver side of the car.

1988 was the last full year of the 2pg engine. A larger golf cart carburetor and another change to the muffler & exhaust system were implemented trying to get more power for the car. The st/gen bracket also went through several changes as the incresed power caused the original bracket to break apart.

In mid-year 1989, (early '89 models had the 2pg engine) E-Z-GO changed to the '3pg' engine, leaving the old 2pg to history. The '3pg' engine has the spark plug turned upward, and the whole engine is rotated such that both clutches face the driver side of the golf cart. This rotation allowed for the differential to be changed from a hypoid gearing to a more efficient helical gear design, a change that persists to this day. The lay-down style golf cart muffler for the '3pg' engine is in front of, and slightly above the engine. The piston is about the only part that works in either engine. The crankshaft & clutches, the exhaust system, the carburetor, air intake & control cables all changed.

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...tml#post608450

rib33024 · 01-27-2010, 04:33 AM

Chrysler ignition module and voltage regulator on g2 Yamaha

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...ulator-g2.html

rib33024 · 01-27-2010, 07:58 AM

YAMAHA YEAR AND PICS

http://www.yamahagolfcar.com/corpora...rtimeline.aspx

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

Home made cooler rack for rear step

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/desig...tml#post741694

rib33024 · 01-29-2010, 10:07 AM

rib33024 · 01-29-2010, 01:35 PM

What the F/R switch does, ( series motor) the switch reverses the flow of current to either the armature or the field. the block diagrams below show the reversal of current flow through the field.

rib33024 · 01-29-2010, 02:08 PM

Wiring diagram for 3 position key switch EZGO

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/electric-ezgo/32942-wiring-diagram-3-position-key-switch.html#post404787

rib33024 · 01-29-2010, 02:30 PM

EZGO

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

79 gas ezgo wiring diagram

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...tml#post759371

rib33024 · 01-29-2010, 02:36 PM

Microswitch innards exposed and explained

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...tml#post712848

rib33024 · 01-30-2010, 10:49 AM

01-27-2010, 03:28 AM	#31
rib33024 ...................... Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: FT Lauderdale FL. Posts: 16,416	Re: O-I_C converting ezgo axle from electric to gas use -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- hello everyone. i have been building up an old ezgo monster and thought i would share some experience here. i havnt heard of many people doing these conversions. they all say buy a new axle. that is the way to go, but, for those who have limited incomes and have tools and some know how, it is possible. keep in mind though, gas engine carts have reverse built into them. electric axles do not. the electric motor changed polarity for reverse, you will only drive forward unless you rig a revesre box into it. here is what i did. it took me maybe a day to get it all done. the right tools definately help. about my cart. i got a hold of an early 70's model cart in bad shape. i found some heavy duty springs with shocks inside them and set them up at each corner. i widened the front a few inches to match the rear axle width for better stability and lifted the heck out of it. the rear suspension changed from leaf springs to a 3 point coil over. each wheel has about 1.5 feet of travel, instead of the stock 3 inches or so. for those who don't know, it is the suspension articulation under different terrain. i put on some 22" kenda dirt dogs with 10 inch rims. i had a 13 horsepower gas engine and wanted to put it to work. you can do alot with a welder and some scrape metal. anyway, now for what you came to read! if you have looked at these axles you will see that the electric motor also serves as the seal for the differential, as well as receives the splines from the pinion shaft. to make it work i needed the seal so the oil wouldn't leak and the splined connection for power transfer. i took the electric motor apart and cleaned up the pieces i needed. i cut out about a 4 inch square around the seal from the backplate of the motor that held the motor to the axle and bolted it back in place. that gave me my seal. next i cut away parts from the motor stator, the coils and magnets, to get to the core. once i got to the core, i used a chop saw to cut flush the splined end of the stator. it is pretty thick so the chop saw is best to cut all the way through. a hacksaw might take 2 years to get through. it then looked like a hub. it had the same end that fit into the seal and mated with the splined shaft for connection. that solved the seal and connection to the spline but i still needed the piece to stay in place. i cut the hub so that when it was assembled, there was a little bit of the splined pinion shaft sticking out the end. i used a narrow cut off wheel and made a cut all the way around the splined shaft. then i got a spring style hose clamp to fit in the grove. that keeps the hub in place. i took the hub out again and drilled four holes in it. i then welded some bolts in the holes and ground them smooth on the side that faces the seal. the brake was a large drum attatched on the other side of the motor shaft. it had a 3/4 bore. p.s. so does the splined pinion shaft. i used a step bit to widen the drum bore slightly on the side that would face the seal so it would go over the spring clip i used to keep the hub in place. you want the splined shaft to fit into the brake drum enough to keep the drum centered. i also drilled the holes to match up with the hub bolts. the drum is like 4 inches deep or so. i welded a keyed shaft in the bore of the drum on the other side long enough to hold the comet clutch i am using and to hold a 2 bolt pillow block for added stability. with the hub put in place, i bolted up the drum, inserted the clutch, added the bearing and welded structural support for it, set it up and off i went. no problems with leaking or vibration or anything. if you have a lathe you can true up your surfaces, but in this case, i think close counts. the final drive from pinion to wheel is about 6:1. with the 40 series clutch i am using and the 13 horsepower motor it is plenty strong for hill climbs and mudding or towing. i often tow a trailer with firewood through rough stuff and it does fine. anyway, thanks for reading. hope it helped. the wife was mad at me and wouldn't talk tonight so i thought i'd do something else and maybe help someone out. good luck! Attached Thumbnails -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Welcome Interesting, why is your wife mad at you? WW -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Not a good way to start the new year!! Anyway, can you post more pics of the drive assy? sounds very interesting. On another note, not really seeing how you're getting the 1.5 feet or 18" of wheel travel you mentioned. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- hey there, thanks to those who have viewed my thread. hope something helped. the wife was mad because i spend too much time in the garage she says. i've attatched some more photos, here you can see the articulation on the suspension. all wheels are touching the ground except the one on the jackstand. i hadn't put a tape to it before so forgive me. its closer to 16 inches rather than 18. but still i think it is impressive for a cart. also i attached some photos of the axle assembly i made. at first i was setting it up for a chain drive and centrifugal clutch but then i learner of the pulley system and thought i would try that. the difference is i removed the sprocket and cut the end off the brake hub and flipped it so it would mount flush with the armature hub and bolt up like the sprocket did. in the pictures, you will see the first set up and clearly visible is thew square seal. that was the electric motor backplate. the hub piece was the armature, or what is left of it. also there is a photo of my speedometer. i used one from a bike, did the math and found the correcect circumfrence and now i have my speed +/- 2 mph.

01-27-2010, 04:28 AM	#32
rib33024 ...................... Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: FT Lauderdale FL. Posts: 16,416	Re: O-I_C -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A short history of the PG engine, enjoy. -In 1976 the so-called '2pg'--a 244cc, Fuji Heavy Industries/Robin Engine--with an internal starter generator (st/gen), became standard. Repair parts are still available except for the crankshaft assembly, the voltage regulator/starter relay and the internal st/gen stator & field. -In 1980, an external, Hitachi brand starter generator was introduced and the engine was modified. The crank bearings, drive clutch, point set & condenser, voltage regulator and the engine frame all changed. -1981 ushered in an electronic ignition system, which did away with the golf carts point set & condenser altogether, and the point activator lobe on the crankshaft soon went away too. Except for the addition of an oil injection system, this engine went virually unchanged until 1989 when the 3pg golf cart engine replaced it. Although the two engines are similar, many parts are very different. -1983 was the oddball year for the 2pg engine. The muffler was placed behind the engine and it layed down instead of standing up. The '83 golf cart had a different engine frame, muffler & exhaust stack. It only lasted one year though...lots of problems. In '84 the E-Z-GO golf cart went back to the old exhaust system & stand-up muffler on the driver side of the car. 1988 was the last full year of the 2pg engine. A larger golf cart carburetor and another change to the muffler & exhaust system were implemented trying to get more power for the car. The st/gen bracket also went through several changes as the incresed power caused the original bracket to break apart. In mid-year 1989, (early '89 models had the 2pg engine) E-Z-GO changed to the '3pg' engine, leaving the old 2pg to history. The '3pg' engine has the spark plug turned upward, and the whole engine is rotated such that both clutches face the driver side of the golf cart. This rotation allowed for the differential to be changed from a hypoid gearing to a more efficient helical gear design, a change that persists to this day. The lay-down style golf cart muffler for the '3pg' engine is in front of, and slightly above the engine. The piston is about the only part that works in either engine. The crankshaft & clutches, the exhaust system, the carburetor, air intake & control cables all changed. http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...tml#post608450

01-27-2010, 04:33 AM	#33
rib33024 ...................... Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: FT Lauderdale FL. Posts: 16,416	Re: O-I_C Chrysler ignition module and voltage regulator on g2 Yamaha http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-y...ulator-g2.html

01-27-2010, 07:58 AM	#34
rib33024 ...................... Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: FT Lauderdale FL. Posts: 16,416	Re: O-I_C YAMAHA YEAR AND PICS http://www.yamahagolfcar.com/corpora...rtimeline.aspx ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ Home made cooler rack for rear step http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/desig...tml#post741694

01-29-2010, 10:07 AM	#35
rib33024 ...................... Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: FT Lauderdale FL. Posts: 16,416	Re: O-I_C ... Last edited by rib33024; 01-10-2018 at 11:40 AM..

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01-29-2010, 01:35 PM	#36
rib33024 ...................... Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: FT Lauderdale FL. Posts: 16,416	Re: O-I_C What the F/R switch does, ( series motor) the switch reverses the flow of current to either the armature or the field. the block diagrams below show the reversal of current flow through the field.

01-29-2010, 02:08 PM	#37
rib33024 ...................... Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: FT Lauderdale FL. Posts: 16,416	Re: O-I_C Wiring diagram for 3 position key switch EZGO http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/electric-ezgo/32942-wiring-diagram-3-position-key-switch.html#post404787

01-29-2010, 02:30 PM	#38
rib33024 ...................... Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: FT Lauderdale FL. Posts: 16,416	Re: O-I_C EZGO ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ 79 gas ezgo wiring diagram http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-e...tml#post759371

01-29-2010, 02:36 PM	#39
rib33024 ...................... Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: FT Lauderdale FL. Posts: 16,416	Re: O-I_C Microswitch innards exposed and explained http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...tml#post712848

01-30-2010, 10:49 AM	#40
rib33024 ...................... Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: FT Lauderdale FL. Posts: 16,416	Re: O-I_C ... Last edited by rib33024; 01-10-2018 at 11:41 AM..