MCOR-4 Continued

[Tom47]

A brief introduction to this post from a previous thread:

https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=136148

I have had three "OEM - ITW Switches - Made in Mexico" MCOR4's on my cart in three years. These are shown below. The first failed in 6 months or so. The second lasted a year or so. The third lasted another year. So for $90 to 100.00 a pop, they all failed in a year or less.

The way they failed was similar. Early on they would not give smooth operation throughout the range. There seemed to be dead spots. Later, they all needed the dreaded "pump the pedal 30 times each time you go to ride". That got old real fast.

In July, 2020, the third became undriveable. I looked for options online and decided to choose the cheapest one available, somewhat as a test. The one I got, also shown below, had me a bit worried as the photo showed "MCRO 4", and made in China! But for $38.00, I decided to go for it.

I installed it on August 1, 2020. I've waited 9 months before reviewing it here. Mostly because everyone says to get the Mexico ones only and not the China ones. However, the one I got might just be the rare perfect one? Maybe, but....

There have been zero dead spots, and I've never had to pump the pedal, yet! I swear it has the smoothest operation consistently of all 4. And with the lockdowns, I've been driving this a lot more than the first 3. Usually 5 to 18 miles everyday, rain or shine.

I'll update this as time progresses. But for 1/3 the cost, and equal longevity I feel I'm way ahead of the game with this one.

[R&TBabich]

Originally Posted by Tom47

.... I looked for options online and decided to choose the cheapest one available, somewhat as a test. The one I got, also shown below, had me a bit worried as the photo showed "MCRO 4", and made in China! But for $38.00, I decided to go for it.

I installed it on August 1, 2020. I've waited 9 months before reviewing it here. Mostly because everyone says to get the Mexico ones only and not the China ones. However, the one I got might just be the rare perfect one? Maybe, but....

There have been zero dead spots, and I've never had to pump the pedal, yet! I swear it has the smoothest operation consistently of all 4. ....

Just wondering, did you have the Alltrax installed for all the MCORs?
The input to the MCOR position sensor comes from the controller and the controller responds to the return.
There might be a difference between controllers in the circuits.

We got our 2003 last year and the MCOR looks original, but don't know for sure.
It has one or two spots where the speed jumps more than it seems it should.
We don't get much humidity here in SoCal which may make a difference in corrosion on the wiper.

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by R&TBabich

Just wondering, did you have the Alltrax installed for all the MCORs?
The input to the MCOR position sensor comes from the controller and the controller responds to the return.
There might be a difference between controllers in the circuits.

We got our 2003 last year and the MCOR looks original, but don't know for sure.
It has one or two spots where the speed jumps more than it seems it should.
We don't get much humidity here in SoCal which may make a difference in corrosion on the wiper.

Yes, the Alltrax, motor, and MCOR and conversion to IQ were all done at the same time. I suspect the micro switch in the MCOR is what fails, not so much the wiper.

I have read resistance of 30 to 50 ohms on the closed micro switches. This may cause enough voltage drop to cause the controller to cut in and out since it doesn't get the full 48 volts to pin 6. I'm not sure. Pumping the go pedal cycles the switch enough times to confirm a 0 ohm contact.

Of course humidity could affect things. We have plenty of that here!

[R&TBabich]

Originally Posted by Tom47

.... I suspect the micro switch in the MCOR is what fails, not so much the wiper. ....

With some surgery on the case is the ON/OFF switch replaceable?
Do you have a bad one to play with?

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by R&TBabich

With some surgery on the case is the ON/OFF switch replaceable?
Do you have a bad one to play with?

If you click the link to the original post, you'll see I did surgery on the first one. I never replaced the switch as Sergio suggested. He gave a part number for a replacement switch that should work. Getting the case separated is the hardest part.

When I took it apart, the switch started closing properly. I think tapping the case to open it may have improved the contact. I reassembled it but already had #2 installed which worked fine for several months.

When I get the initiative to do so, I will open # 2 or 3 and check the switch replacement. It appears easy to do. Right now the switches close to 0 ohms but in the cart it was 20-50 ohms erratically.

Like I mentioned, I really think the switch is the problem with these. The China ones may use a different switch than the Mexico ones. Time will tell if I am correct in this assumption.

[R&TBabich]

Originally Posted by Tom47

If you click the link to the original post, you'll see I did surgery on the first one. I never replaced the switch as Sergio suggested. He gave a part number for a replacement switch that should work. Getting the case separated is the hardest part. .... .

Yes, I saw the link and found a couple of other threads on the forum.
I wrote a note on my Alltrax Wiring Diagram that the 5 inputs needed for the controller to close the solenoid must be >30V, not sure where I got that.
The stock MCOR4 switch is rated for 5A @ 28VDC.
The 16-4044 is rated for 10A @ 28VDC and has silver contacts.
Wonder what the stock switch contacts are made of?

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by R&TBabich

Yes, I saw the link and found a couple of other threads on the forum.
I wrote a note on my Alltrax Wiring Diagram that the 5 inputs needed for the controller to close the solenoid must be >30V, not sure where I got that.
The stock MCOR4 switch is rated for 5A @ 28VDC.
The 16-4044 is rated for 10A @ 28VDC and has silver contacts.
Wonder what the stock switch contacts are made of?

The stock ones are probably silver also. What concerned me was the 28 VDC contact rating being used on 48 nominal volts. Sergio said that shouldn't be a problem.

With the switch resistance of 30 ohms, the contact would generate 1.6 amps of heat across it. But what would that heat generated do to the contact life. I just don't know.

BTW, in another post Sergio located the replacement switch since the original is OEM only made for MCORs.

The replacement is ITW 16-304.

https://www.newark.com/itw-switches/...t-10/dp/23F182

I may check into this in the near future and try to modify one of mine. I'll start another thread if I do.

But at $20 each plus shipping, I'm better off getting the MCOR for $38 that I am having good luck with.

[R&TBabich]

Originally Posted by Tom47

.... BTW, in another post Sergio located the replacement switch since the original is OEM only made for MCORs.

The replacement is ITW 16-304.

https://www.newark.com/itw-switches/...t-10/dp/23F182 ....

I saw that post, too.
Will that switch work with the contacts coming out the back side of the housing?

[Tom47]

Originally Posted by R&TBabich

I saw that post, too.
Will that switch work with the contacts coming out the back side of the housing?

I believe it would.