2002 DS IQ with upgraded motor/pack won't move

[R&TBabich]

Originally Posted by Badger77vette

All of those 5 inputs into the controller are reading normal except the green from the MCOR pin 5. That is 0VDC when pedal is depressed. So I am guessing the MCOR is bad. Yes, the blue input into the MCOR has 50VDC at the plug. I put a jumper into that plug and have 50 VDC at the controller on pin 5 but the solenoid still does not engage. Are both the MCOR and controller bad then?

Controller connector pin #5 is Charge Interlock input and should be B+ for the cart to run.
The OBC should supply B+ on pin #5 Light Blue when not charging.
The MCOR Foot Switch input is on pin #6 Green.

[Badger77vette]

Originally Posted by Dieselnut

Did you do the upgrades all at once? Was the cart running and driving before the parts? If so, I would lean towards the problem not being mcor or controller. I have seen numerous ds models that worked prior to lithium installs, then shortly thereafter stopped running. All of them were solved by replacing the solenoid. My uneducated guess is that the lithium’s higher voltage may be killing the solenoid coil, causing voltage to back feed into the controller.

Whatever the problem with the solenoid was, replacing it immediately and permanently fixed all of the issues.

Yes I did all of these upgrades at once. I should upgrade the solenoid so I think I will order that and see if you're right and it fixed the problem.

[R&TBabich]

Originally Posted by Badger77vette

Yes I did all of these upgrades at once. I should upgrade the solenoid ....

What voltage do you see at the solenoid with the lithium pack?
I can see how a heavy duty solenoid activation coil could handle a higher voltage than an OEM solenoid.
With higher than rated voltage an activation coil could be burnt out, but it wouldn't back feed voltage into the controller.
The controller is grounding the activation coil circuit so if anything the higher voltage from lithium would burn out the grounding chip, but I'll bet the chip is rated for fairly high voltage.
You might consider getting the 60v version of an MZJ-400A solenoid.
Anyone know the minimum activation voltage of a 48v or 60v MZJ-400A?
I see there is a double coil version MZJ-400S available, must be what the extra wires are for.

[Reddawg454]

I spliced the blue and white wires together on the OBC side of the 6 pin connector and taped off all other wires.

I'm just guessing here but I think these need to be jumped on the harness side not the obc side.

[Badger77vette]

Originally Posted by R&TBabich

Controller connector pin #5 is Charge Interlock input and should be B+ for the cart to run.
The OBC should supply B+ on pin #5 Light Blue when not charging.
The MCOR Foot Switch input is on pin #6 Green.

You are correct. It is pin 6 the green wire. I did not have 50 returning to the controller on Pin 6. Sorry for the confusion.

[Badger77vette]

Originally Posted by R&TBabich

What voltage do you see at the solenoid with the lithium pack?
I can see how a heavy duty solenoid activation coil could handle a higher voltage than an OEM solenoid.
With higher than rated voltage an activation coil could be burnt out, but it wouldn't back feed voltage into the controller.
The controller is grounding the activation coil circuit so if anything the higher voltage from lithium would burn out the grounding chip, but I'll bet the chip is rated for fairly high voltage.
You might consider getting the 60v version of an MZJ-400A solenoid.
Anyone know the minimum activation voltage of a 48v or 60v MZJ-400A?
I see there is a double coil version MZJ-400S available, must be what the extra wires are for.

50.2VDC on battery (red wire) side and 49.8VDC on controller (Yellow wire) side, I'm guessing due to the resistor that goes between the two posts.

[Dieselnut]

Originally Posted by Reddawg454

I spliced the blue and white wires together on the OBC side of the 6 pin connector and taped off all other wires.

I'm just guessing here but I think these need to be jumped on the harness side not the obc side.

Yes if you didn’t connect blue to white on the harness side it will not run. Connect and let us know how it goes.

[Badger77vette]

Originally Posted by Dieselnut

Yes if you didn’t connect blue to white on the harness side it will not run. Connect and let us know how it goes.

I want to make sure that I understand what you are saying.

The OBC has been removed on my cart. On the 6 pin connector that used to run between the controller and the OBC I cut the wires on the OBC side of that connector and spliced the white and blue wires together.

This is what you are asking me to ensure is done... correct??

[Dieselnut]

Yes if you did that then you should be good. But it needs to be on the cart side of the harness not the OBC side.

[R&TBabich]

Originally Posted by Badger77vette

I want to make sure that I understand what you are saying.

The OBC has been removed on my cart. On the 6 pin connector that used to run between the controller and the OBC I cut the wires on the OBC side of that connector and spliced the white and blue wires together.

This is what you are asking me to ensure is done... correct??

That would be easiest.
Since you have B+ on pin #5 it should be fine.
The White and Light Blue can be tied together on either side of the connector.

I removed the 6-pin connector entirely with the OBC on ours and cut back/capped or removed the excess wiring.
The White wire to the OBC is spliced to a Light Green wire from the Tow/Run switch at a sonic weld.
The splice also feeds the Key Switch, Reverse Buzzer, MCOR Foot Switch and Tow/Run Input to the controller.
You could just tie the Light Blue wire on controller pin #5 (Charger Disable) to the Gray wire on pin #9 (Tow/Run).