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Old 04-10-2021, 02:08 PM   #1
cushman898452
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Default Cushman 898452-8810 Keihin Carb Flooding

Hello,

New cushman owner here hoping to get some guidance on a truckster a family friend purchased that I'm helping get running. It's a Truckster model 898452-8810 with the OMC opposed engine in it, can't figure out which engine though, 18 or 22HP. The stickers worn. Currently I've got the truck to fire and run but it floods out really bad. The current setup has the original mechanical fuel pump which I've replaced the lines, cleaned and flushed the tank and installed a new fuel cap (Missing) as well as a fuel filter. The truck had what looked like a brand new bypass filter which is my suspect of failure point. I have rebuilt the carb with a new kit, this has the Keihin carb on it, cleaned the points off so the 2 coils fire nicely into new plugs. For the heck of it, I had a spare snowblower tank that I ran direct to the carb prior to rebuilding the carb with a fuel shut off valve at half closed and it sat there and sang, anything else it has only stayed running for a short period of time. I'm very familiar with small engines and power equipment but honestly this one has me scratching my head! Hoping someone can point out something obvious I may have overlooked.

I did see a post somewhere else by a gentleman named "Charley" that mentioned setting up an electric fuel pump and doing away with the bypass filter and return line. My issue with that is I do not believe the carb will hold back even a couple psi fuel pressure coming at it.

Looking forward to what folks have for input, really want to get this thing moving! Enjoy your weekend!

cushman898452
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Old 04-11-2021, 09:24 AM   #2
CharleyL
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Default Re: Cushman 898452-8810 Keihin Carb Flooding

I do seem to be the "resident expert" on Cushman OMC engines.

If your OMC engine has the spark plugs below center in the cylinders, it is an 18 hp. If they are above center, it is a 22 hp engine. BTW the only significant difference between the two engines are the cylinders, the 22 hp being higher compression. The rest of the engine is the same. OMC also made a single cylinder version of this motor that was used in one model of Cushman Motor Scooter. Again, most of the parts in this engine are the same as the 2 cylinder engines. BTW, both cylinders are the same part number. Since both the intake and exhaust valves are the same, it doesn't matter which side of the engine it is used on. These cylinders seem to be the weakest part of these engines. The cylinder and head are one piece, similar to many motorcycle engines and not separate like the VW style air cooled engines. This makes working on the valves and valve seats in these engines very difficult as most valve repair equipment is not designed to reach in this far.
With the spark plug threads of aluminum, this is another source of failure in these OMC engines, so a little anti-seize on the spark plug threads is a good idea.

With the OEM fuel pump, it depends on excess fuel pressure being bypassed back to the tank. If the bypass filter has any problems, it may fail to do this and over pressure the float needle valve in the carburetor. A modern electric fuel pump is self regulating for fuel pressure, so you don't need the bypass filter and you can connect the electric fuel pump direct to the carburetor. The original fuel pumps for these engines is now almost unobtanium and if you do find one it is likely new old stock and 25 or more years old, with rubber parts that won't likely last very long once you begin using it. The price of these is incredibly high now if you can even find one, making new electric fuel pumps a real bargain by comparison. After installing an electric fuel pump in my Truckster, the engine ran better than it did when new. I made a metal cover and gasket for the old mechanical fuel pump location, removed the mechanical fuel pump and bypass filter, and rejoiced at how much better my engine ran.

If you didn't replace the carburetor float and needle valve in the Keihin carburetor, this could be the problem too. Old plastic floats tend to absorb fuel slowly over their life and not float as high in the fuel bowl after many years, causing the reserve fuel level in the bowl to be higher and sometimes even high enough to come out of the vent. In both cases, the the engine runs rich and floods out. Also, while working on your carburetor, look in the end of the fuel inlet pipe and if you find a tiny filter screen, remove and discard it using a pair of fine needle nose pliers. They are more trouble than they are worth, likely plugged up by now, and a good inline fuel filter will be the better alternative. You can't get these tiny filter screens any more either.

A manual is available that covers the OMC engines and also has the electrical schematics for most models that had the OMC engines. Go to www.sillylittlecars.com, then click on "Manuals" and then the highlighted "Shop and Maintenance Manuals" in the text. The 826767 manuals, most importantly the "Supplement" as it contains the OMC motor information and electrical schematics.

You can still get most of the motor, drive train, and brake parts for Cushman Trucksters, many through the local auto parts stores, but they don't have a cross reference for Cushman parts. In most cases you will need to bring the broken part with you for them to match up. If there is an older guy working there, he may recognize the part and go directly to the shelf to get it. The less experienced can't find anything unless it's listed in the computer cross reference. Cushman used many standard automotive parts. They didn't build them, buying what was needed from other sources instead.

Do a search, or just scan down this forum for posts that were replied to by me. You will find more than you need in information to help you keep your Truckster alive. Information about my Truckster and photos can be found in the thread "Cushman Truckster Saved From The Forest" that I posted shortly after joining this forum. I restored my 1987 Truckster far enough to make it useable and reliable, so it can help me maintain my 3+ acre property. I did not attempt to make it like new again.

This should help you get it running, but there are many other tips in my previous posts about keeping Trucksters running. Searching for "Charley" should find them all. It would be great if you could report back with your success, but don't hesitate to post new questions too. I enjoy helping when I can.

Charley

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Old 05-07-2021, 01:50 PM   #3
cushman898452
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Default Re: Cushman 898452-8810 Keihin Carb Flooding

Apologies for the delayed response, it's been a rough couple weeks with projects at work.

Thanks for the info Charley. It appears the truck I have is the 22HP model as the plugs are facing up at you when you pull the seat down. I see what you mean about the bypass fuel filter and it makes sense. The OEM fuel pump is on the engine still and does work and there is no gas in the oil so that's a start. I will have to confirm the return is pushing fuel back but the main problem I'm finding is that even after rebuilding the carb it just floods and pours fuel out the throat of the carb. Quite frustrating and the only thing I have left to swap out is the float and needle but it's I've struck out online trying to find them. Any idea where to find one because that's what I think the current problem is. I agree with the upgrade to the electric fuel pump but for starters I need to get the fuel flow under control into the carb as that's a failure point currently.

I'm laughing at your parts store description, the auto parts store guys at the Advance near me usually just tell me generally where stuff is and I go find it myself. It's true, they only know what the computer tells them and asking them to get off the stool is a lot!

I'll post success stories as soon as I have this thing up and running but need that needle and float setup you speak of, just no idea where to look for that.

Looking forward to hearing back from you as I'll be buying that stuff ASAP, want this thing running.
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Old 05-08-2021, 09:05 AM   #4
CharleyL
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Default Re: Cushman 898452-8810 Keihin Carb Flooding

I would try

http://www.keihincarbs.com/home.html

www.denniscarpentercushman.com

https://www.x-tremedist.com/shop-all-cushman-parts

https://directparts.com/engine/engine-parts.html

Calling them when you can't find what you need online frequently gets results.

I bought mine through my local forklift dealer/repair shop. They once repaired Cushman Industrial Vehicles, so knew where to get parts for them, but one of the above sources should be able to help. In previous posts I posted the Keihin Carb Exploded view and Cushman parts list for the carburetor. It might be of some help.

If the bypass filter's pressure regulating valve is stuck, the OEM fuel pump will over pressure the needle valve and float in the carburetor causing gas to exit the float bowl vent and run down the outside of the carburetor. It will also cause the motor to run very rich, if it runs at all. The OEM fuel pump can, and will, over pressure the carburetor if it can't return the excess fuel via the bypass filter to the tank. I have some Keihin Carburetor spare used parts, but I would hesitate to give you a float and needle valve, because what I have is likely no better than what you already have.

I have most of 2 spare OMC 22 hp engines, mostly disassembled, cleaned, and bagged. I do not have any cylinders.

Cylinders and valves seem to be the weak points of these engines, and keeping the engine from overheating will extend their life. To avoid overheating, the air temperature controls that open and close the damper doors in the front of the engine must be kept working properly, or in my case locked in the open position since I could no longer find any of the temperature control bellows assemblies or linkages. They help to get cab heat from the engine and allow the engine to warm up faster in extreme cold conditions, but aren't necessary in temperatures above about 20 deg F for engine performance. but all of the finned areas of the cylinders and engine block must also be kept clean, and the engine must be able to get full air flow around and through it. If not, exhaust valves will break, and/or the cylinder walls will be scored. Another problem is that the spark plug threads in the aluminum cylinders are easily damaged. I always use an anti-seize compound on the spark plug threads and I am very careful not to cross thread the spark plugs when inserting them. Out of the total of 3 engines that I have, only the engine in my Truckster has good cylinders and valves. There are no good cylinders with my 2 spare engines. They still sell new cylinders with valves, but they are expensive.

Charley
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