48 to 12V stepdown yamaha drive 2 with new lithim

[Cartsnfarts]

Originally Posted by Mpk200

Whats the quickest way to find which of the 2 wires on the solenoid is the 48volt key switch with a multimeter?

I’m not good at explaining things, but put one lead on the main negative and the other on a post. The one that shows voltage only when cart is on and the solenoid is activated is the one you want

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by Cartsnfarts

I’m not good at explaining things, but put one lead on the main negative and the other on a post. The one that shows voltage only when cart is on and the solenoid is activated is the one you want

Theres 2 small posts on the solenoid but for the carts ive worked on thats not were you want to power any inverter from or switch it from unless you want your lights blinking on and off every time you depress and let off the pedal.

In most carts the solenoid voltage clicks on and off with the pedal from a microswitch. I guess it might be the negative side thats switched on some carts but there should be a "KSI" wire going to the controller and thats the one you want. You can trace it from your key switch if you dont want to just tap into it at the key switch.

[Capt. Lenny]

Originally Posted by augiedoggy

In most carts the solenoid voltage clicks on and off with the pedal from a microswitch.

I have always experienced one of the small posts on the solenoid is hot whenever the key switch is on and the other one is switched on with every press of the go pedal which would give you the blinking lights you speak of. I'm not talking the larger posts.

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by Capt. Lenny

I have always experienced one of the small posts on the solenoid is hot whenever the key switch is on and the other one is switched on with every press of the go pedal which would give you the blinking lights you speak of. I'm not talking the larger posts.

So ground switching then... I will have to double check but I dont believe thats the case in my cart.

[Capt. Lenny]

Well augiedoggy, I can't say that I've worked on any Yamaha's but the others that I have worked on worked good this way. There should be a wire that runs from the key switch to the solenoid which should switched +. Check with one meter lead on -battery and the other to either one of the small posts on the solenoid to find hot with the key on. This is the way mine is hooked up using a converter with 5 (6) wires.

[rstacy]

Drv2 DC motor
The hot side of the solenoid is fed from the tow/run switch.
The ground side is controlled by the controller.
The key switch feeds the positive voltage to the pedal switch which feeds the controller.

Drv2 AC motor
Both sides of the solenoid are fed by the controller.
The key switch feeds the negative voltage to the pedal switch and then to the controller.

If you think about it, the key switch can't feed the solenoid. If it did, the walk away feature wouldn't work when the key is off.

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by Capt. Lenny

Well augiedoggy, I can't say that I've worked on any Yamaha's but the others that I have worked on worked good this way. There should be a wire that runs from the key switch to the solenoid which should switched +. Check with one meter lead on -battery and the other to either one of the small posts on the solenoid to find hot with the key on. This is the way mine is hooked up.

I'm not doubting what your saying here, I will double check mine.

so I just double checked mine and on my G8 the coil negative wire runs straight to the battery and the positive is switched on and off with the pedal Not sure why it was wired that way. Now Ive got something else to look over again... I know its working fine.

I also replaced my f/r lever and removed those microswitches so not sure If I had to change something there

[Capt. Lenny]

Well, I guess Yamaha is a different animal! As I said, I have no experience with Yamaha.

[augiedoggy]

Originally Posted by Capt. Lenny

Well, I guess Yamaha is a different animal! As I said, I have no experience with Yamaha.

im also running an aftermarket curtis controller so maybe I had to rewire something then I wish I rememebered... im terrible at actually bothering to make schematics.

[Pat911]

Originally Posted by augiedoggy

im also running an aftermarket curtis controller so maybe I had to rewire something then I wish I rememebered... im terrible at actually bothering to make schematics.

That’s me too.

I often start out with good intentions, documenting the prototype, but never update it with mods I have to make along the way to get it to work as it should.