Static from radio when lights are on???

[Sergio]

If You have the Relay N.O. contact right by the converter connected to the original converter green wire, it will be OK.

You just don't want to extend the original wire with less than 10ga wire.

You will need that to deliver 30 amps without voltage losses.

[Kmart06]

Yeah, the relay is just a couple inches from the converter. Should I still use 10 gauge from the relay to the fuse box?

[Kmart06]

Sergio, what would you think is causing the terrible radio static when I turn on the lights?

[Sergio]

The positive wire from the converter to the Relay will carry the current of all accessories combined. The gauge of the OEM wire is only good for the length that comes with the converter.

The positive wire from the Relay to the fuse box carries the current of All accessories (minus the Radio that is powered before the Relay).

If the length between the Relay and Fuse box is less than 2ft, I would use 12ga, otherwise use 10ga.

The negative wire from the fuse box bussbar to Controller B- should also be adequate to carry 30 amps, which is a 10ga wire.

The +48v from pack positive to the Converter should be no less than 14ga wire.

The Negative for the 48v input of the converter can be a 14ga wire running to Your fuse box negative bussbar.

How many amps is that Horn?

The problems could be Related if the converter is unable to produce a clean +12v output under load, but 30amps should be enough to power all of the accessories.

Can You post a few pictures showing the exact model Converter You are using?

As far as the static, is it only on FM or do You also get it even if You are listening to an AUX input audio?

[Kmart06]

Originally Posted by Sergio

The positive wire from the converter to the Relay will carry the current of all accessories combined. The gauge of the OEM wire is only good for the length that comes with the converter.

The positive wire from the Relay to the fuse box carries the current of All accessories (minus the Radio that is powered before the Relay).

If the length between the Relay and Fuse box is less than 2ft, I would use 12ga, otherwise use 10ga.

The negative wire from the fuse box bussbar to Controller B- should also be adequate to carry 30 amps, which is a 10ga wire.

The +48v from pack positive to the Converter should be no less than 14ga wire.

The Negative for the 48v input of the converter can be a 14ga wire running to Your fuse box negative bussbar.

How many amps is that Horn?

The problems could be Related if the converter is unable to produce a clean +12v output under load, but 30amps should be enough to power all of the accessories.

Can You post a few pictures showing the exact model Converter You are using?

As far as the static, is it only on FM or do You also get it even if You are listening to an AUX input audio?

I have the negative of the fuse box going directly to the reducer as there were two "ground" wires from the converter, the other "ground" from the converter is connected to the pack negative. I looked up the horn specs and it does not say the amps but it is a dual trumpet setup with a small soda can size compressor.
I'll take a picture of the converter later today, but I bought it from do it yourself golf cart.

[Kmart06]

Ok, got the static fixed somehow. The clock and radio settings weren't being saved when the radio powered off so I checked the wiring and I had the yellow and red from the radio switched so I fixed that and when I turned it back on no static! Now the only problem is the radio turning off when I honk the horn.

[rib33024]

You don't use the horn much? right. Just wire the horn to the batteries, and not the converter

[Kmart06]

Originally Posted by rib33024

You don't use the horn much? right. Just wire the horn to the batteries, and not the converter

No, not much at all, more of a novelty. So just to one of the 12 volts? I guess that would be the easiest solution.

[Sergio]

I definitely agree, some of those air horn compressor motors can draw 20 amps at startup, low impedance power sources like a battery are the best to deal with sudden demand for current.

The only wire You need to move is the +12v wire from Relay to Fuse block, that wire should now go directly to the +12v or +16v battery post measuring from Pack Negative.

Put an in-line fuse near the battery post.

That way the horn can still only be activated when key is ON.

[Kmart06]

Originally Posted by Sergio

I definitely agree, some of those air horn compressor motors can draw 20 amps at startup, low impedance power sources like a battery are the best to deal with sudden demand for current.

The only wire You need to move is the +12v wire from Relay to Fuse block, that wire should now go directly to the +12v or +16v battery post measuring from Pack Negative.

Put an in-line fuse near the battery post.

That way the horn can still only be activated when key is ON.

Great, thanks guys I'll try that out.