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Electric Yamaha Electric Yamaha Golf Cars; G1 through "The Drive" and U-Max Utility Vehicles |
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02-14-2020, 03:12 AM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 14
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New solenoid - no click, new batteries, new tow/run switch
Have old cart, G22, that sat for a few years but ran when parked in garage. Replaced batteries last week and thought I heard solenoid click when first turned tow/run to run. But when tried to run cart, nothing happened - no run, no buzzer when in reverse, and no more clicks on solenoid. Tried to clean contacts on tow run switch which promptly broke due to heavy corrosion. Replaced switch, also replaced solenoid. Still no click. Checked 3 amp fuse and replaced. Getting voltage to top/ big posts on solenoid (about 55 V). But have no voltage but also very little resistance (0.1 ohms +/-) on bottom terminals with “gas pedal” depressed. Could I have corrosion on gas pedal switch? But what about the buzzer? Any troubleshooting guidance would be greatly appreciated. I hate to be the millionth person asking the same question, but I am at a loss. Am I looking at new controller or can I still test something - I.e. I saw a relay in the wiring diagram for g19. Is there another switch somewhere on g22?
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02-14-2020, 07:36 AM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 384
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Re: New solenoid - no click, new batteries, new tow/run switch
If you switch the tow/run to tow, wait a few seconds, then back to run do you hear the solenoid click.
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02-14-2020, 12:16 PM | #3 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 14
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Re: New solenoid - no click, new batteries, new tow/run switch
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02-14-2020, 04:30 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 14
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Re: New solenoid - no click, new batteries, new tow/run switch
I found this cool check list for pin voltages on controller - will follow and maybe rule out/ or most likely in :( the controller as the culprit. I checked all the switches ( on/off, forward/reverse, tow/run, stop switch - could unfortunately not get throttle control switch apart to check it) and everything I was able to check showed resistance/continuity where expected.
So, now I am off to checklist - rats, member not long enough to post link - but if someone googles, you might find it under this info: fsip.biz/Documents/Yamaha%20G22%20with%20GE%20262Y1%20Control.pdf |
02-14-2020, 04:34 PM | #5 |
Gone Insane
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 14,214
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Re: New solenoid - no click, new batteries, new tow/run switch
I don't know a lot about those, but have you checked the key switch?
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02-14-2020, 05:14 PM | #6 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Ocala, FL
Posts: 384
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Re: New solenoid - no click, new batteries, new tow/run switch
Here is the pin list. Ignore references to OBD.
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02-14-2020, 11:24 PM | #7 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 14
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Re: New solenoid - no click, new batteries, new tow/run switch
Back from going through check list. All was fine up until pin 10 - check list wants to put reverse/forward switch to neutral, but my cart does not have a neutral position - so could not verify that it was at pack voltage, AND there is no buzzer installed. When switched to reverse, the voltage was at 0, but that could also be due to not back probing correctly, although I did several times to be sure - so that check item was not much help.
On to pin 7 (stop switch?) - With pedal down, I am not getting 3.5 V - it’s 0, same as with pedal up (Bad back probe?). Next issue occurred at pin 15 which deals with speed sensor - the “thingie” behind the box right by “gas pedal”. Supposed to give 11.5 V. It’s 0. They suggest to remove switch to see if returns to 11.5. What do they mean? I tried to disconnect the electrical connection, but plug is so old, won’t come apart without brut/damaging force. So did not do. If I unscrew the sensor and set aside, will that suffice as removed? Wiring looks okay other than old plug. And now to coup d’etat - pin 11 (Solenoid out) - I am getting pack voltage whether pedal depressed or not. Did not test pin 14 (no helper with turning wheel), and pin 16 as a 0 Volt reading could be confirmation, or a bad back probe. Now I am faced with a bad controller, or bad speed sensor ( or both?). Would a bad speed sensor give me a bad voltage reading on pin 11 (solenoid out)? If someone could please get back to me and help me understand what removing of sensor means ( unplugging or unscrewing). Or should I assume controller is bad, and deal with sensor later? |
02-14-2020, 11:30 PM | #8 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 14
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Re: New solenoid - no click, new batteries, new tow/run switch
Thanks for list. I found something similar from Yamaha with cool electric diagram, but cannot post yet - so spelled out link for others in previous post. Did the pin checks and ran into some issues which might indicate controller problem, and/or speed sensor problem. I described in previous post. Could you please help with my problem I indicated in previous post at bottom (in bold). Thanks so much.
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02-14-2020, 11:34 PM | #9 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Feb 2020
Location: Hawaii
Posts: 14
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Re: New solenoid - no click, new batteries, new tow/run switch
yes, and it’s okay. Thank you for your thoughts:)
Last edited by b_zazzi; 02-14-2020 at 11:35 PM.. Reason: Remove icon from subject |
02-15-2020, 12:30 AM | #10 |
Gone Insane
Join Date: Oct 2016
Location: Richmond, VA
Posts: 14,214
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Re: New solenoid - no click, new batteries, new tow/run switch
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