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Old 02-24-2014, 07:46 PM   #1
Swm0105
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Question Redhawk All LED Light Kit Installation Help

I have a 2010 CC Precedent and purchased a Redhawk All LED Street Legal Deluxe Light Kit (LGT-506L), this particular kit is designed for 6-8v batteries and includes a voltage reducer.

To my surprise when the package arrived I realized that the voltage reducer apparently included in the kit was a 16v~12v reducer. Perhaps I should have anticipated this, but I assumed that Redhawk would have included a 48v~12v reducer to properly balance the load across all batteries.

Being that I don't want to draw from just two of my batteries, and the fact that the wiring harness included in the kit has matching connectors to the #1 & #6 battery factory connectors (48v setup), I purchased a Redhawk 48v~12v, 30amp reducer (VOLT-2001).

Here is my situation: I hooked up the 48v~12v reducer to the #1 & #6 batteries (48v) and ran the key switch wire. I then connected the +/- reducer leads to the +/- fused wire assembly leads. Easy enough...

Further down on the wire assembly there is a single connector for the originally provided 16v~12v reducer. This single connector has two wires, one apparently supplying power to the would be reducer (16v), then a second wire providing the reduced 12v power back into the wire assembly.

Being that I have already installed the 48v~16v reducer at the battery compartment, I have 12v coming into the single connector designed for the provided 16v~12v reducer (volt meter tested/verified). I placed a jumper in this connector to simply continue the 12v supply back into the wire assembly.

I then tested out the kit by turning the hazard lights on (brake lights and running lights flashed correctly), running lights on (didn't work), headlights on (didn't work), left and right turn signals (lit up solidly, but did not blink on/off), pressure activated brake pad (didn't work) horn (didn't work), cigarette lighter (correctly has 12v). Please note that I turned on and then off each of the features in the testing sequence prior to moving on to the next feature, ie: hazards on then off, running lights on then off, etc...

What am I doing wrong here? Is the kit designed to have 48v or possibly 16v running through the wire assembly initially and then reducing the voltage down to 12v at the connection point that's included in the wire assembly?

I obviously assumed that buying a plug n play kit was going to offer me a relatively easy installation...I'm currently not enjoying my first upgrade! Please
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Old 02-24-2014, 08:08 PM   #2
scooterman
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Default Re: Redhawk All LED Light Kit Installation Help

Did you try calling the manufacturer or the place where you purchased it? This seems too complicated, as much detail you explained.
The system apparently runs off 12v dc no matter how you get it, that is what it needs. So try it off just two batteries and see how it works with the original converter 16-12, get that working first. If you want to draw power off the 48v system to be balanced then you need a 48 to 12 converter, probably a 30 amp minimum. eliminating any other reduces or converters. Simplify the system, less troubles down the road.
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:41 AM   #3
Sergio
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Default Re: Redhawk All LED Light Kit Installation Help

The part about designed for a 6 x 8v is the giveaway that it includes a cheapo 16v-12v reducer....
I don't have a wiring diagram for your lights, but typically when using those 16-12 reducers, you get the positive for your accessories directly from the battery (16v) and the negative for the accessory is connected to the reducer.
The reducer simply works inline with the negative providing a 4v drop for the accessory. Those reducers usually provide 2 connections for 2 separate accessories.
I am guessing the single connector with 2 wires are both supposed to go to the negative side of your battery pack (or converter negative out if it is an isolated type converter) to complete the circuit.

Edit: after more thought, always connect the accessory negative to the converter negative output, that way you don't need to worry about the kind of converter you have.
Also, make sure the negative input of the converter is connected to either the controller B- or to the factory accessory negative wire that is connected to the controller B-. Do not connect it directly to the pack negative or the OBC will not be able to measure the current drawn by your accessories.
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Old 02-25-2014, 06:53 AM   #4
Stevegrmich
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Default Re: Redhawk All LED Light Kit Installation Help

. . . hmmm . . . Redhawk typically supplies install instructions in their light kits for 48v connection (using dc-dc converter) . . . my next question would be, which 506L kit did you get? . . . there are four versions of that particular kit, depending on year etc of Precedent . . .
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Old 02-26-2014, 11:19 AM   #5
6point1SRT
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Default Re: Redhawk All LED Light Kit Installation Help

I will be running into this situation. I bought light kit and bucket harness for 2010 CC Precedent. The instructions say wire blue bucket wire harness to #1 battery positive supplying 48V to harness. THEN, at the dash, you would plug the input lead on your 16-12 reducer into factory/bucket harness and the output lead from the reducer to the light kit harness.

I'm wondering if you simply wire the bucket harness main lead, blue wire, to the 12V output from the 48-12 reducer and then plug the light kit harness to the factory harness if this will work the same? Isn't this the same problem?
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Old 02-26-2014, 02:01 PM   #6
Sergio
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Default Re: Redhawk All LED Light Kit Installation Help

You are correct.

If you feed 12v into the blue harness wire in the battery compartment, you don't need to do anything to the harness inside the dash. The blue wire will provide 12v to the light switch and harness.

If you however feed 48v to that blue wire, mount your converter in the front of the cart, and the converter does not come with the 2-12pin harness connectors to splice the converter into the harness, you need to manually splice it.

You would then cut the blue wire in the light harness side of the 12pin connector, the side of the wire coming from the battery compartment would feed the +48v to the converter.

The +12v output of the converter would connect to the other side of the blue wire going to the light harness.

The blue/white wire coming from the key switch would provide the switched +48v to be used for the converter trigger wire.

The black wire coming from the harness 12pin connector would be the negative for both +48v and +12v, assuming your converter only needs a single negative.

If the converter needs separate negatives, cut the black wire in the light harness side of the 12pin connector, the side of the wire coming from the battery compartment would feed the negative to the converter input .

The 12v negative output of the converter would connect to the other side of the black wire going to the light harness.
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Old 02-26-2014, 03:43 PM   #7
6point1SRT
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Wink Re: Redhawk All LED Light Kit Installation Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Sergio View Post
You are correct.

If you feed 12v into the blue harness wire in the battery compartment, you don't need to do anything to the harness inside the dash. The blue wire will provide 12v to the light switch and harness.

If you however feed 48v to that blue wire, mount your converter in the front of the cart, and the converter does not come with the 2-12pin harness connectors to splice the converter into the harness, you need to manually splice it.

You would then cut the blue wire in the light harness side of the 12pin connector, the side of the wire coming from the battery compartment would feed the +48v to the converter.

The +12v output of the converter would connect to the other side of the blue wire going to the light harness.

The blue/white wire coming from the key switch would provide the switched +48v to be used for the converter trigger wire.

The black wire coming from the harness 12pin connector would be the negative for both +48v and +12v, assuming your converter only needs a single negative.

If the converter needs separate negatives, cut the black wire in the light harness side of the 12pin connector, the side of the wire coming from the battery compartment would feed the negative to the converter input .

The 12v negative output of the converter would connect to the other side of the black wire going to the light harness.
Have you done this before?
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Old 02-26-2014, 04:06 PM   #8
Sergio
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Default Re: Redhawk All LED Light Kit Installation Help

yes, I spliced my converter into the harness on my 2010 precedent.

It came with a madjax light kit installed so the harness was already there from the battery compartment to the dash.

The voltage converter I got did not come with the harness adapter, so I traced the wires and spliced them.
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Old 03-01-2014, 08:33 AM   #9
6point1SRT
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Default Re: Redhawk All LED Light Kit Installation Help

If you connect the converter inside the battery compartment, thereby supplying 12V to the harness, which wire would you use to supply 48V switched power to the converter? There is the blue/white wire on the light harness coming from the key switch that ultimately plugs into the gray wire installed by CC in the dash, but wouldn't this wire only have 12V power going to it?

Is there a wire I can splice into in the battery compartment that supplies 48V switched power?
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Old 03-01-2014, 09:31 AM   #10
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Default Re: Redhawk All LED Light Kit Installation Help

That gray wire with the bullet connector provides switched +48v directly to a pin in the 12 pin connector behind the dash, it does not feed the power back thru the harness to battery compartment.
I think the positive side of the solenoid coil is the best place to tap into the switched +48v if your converter has the trigger wire, meaning very little load placed at the connection point.
For folks that have converters without a trigger wire, they should use a charger relay to switch the power to the converter. The charger relay coil positive connection would them come from the positive side of the main solenoid coil.

Edit: these comments are for newer precedents as the way the main solenoid activates is different for different models/years.
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