Front driver wheel wobble

[UroGator]

I just bought a 2006 EZGO TXT PDS and have been having problems with significant wobbling of the front driver side wheel. There was a dent in the rim and I thought this was the problem so I bought a new set of 10 inch wheels. However, I still have the same wobbling problem. I swapped the driver side wheel and the wobble goes away. When I put the passenger side wheel on the driver side, the wobble returns. Therefore, I think I've isolated my problem to the hub, bearings and races, or the spindle. I took off the hub and examined the bearings and races and they appear to be fine. There are no odd noises when the wheel spins. However, when I watch the hub spin on the spindle, I note that it appears to be out of round. The spindle does appear to be straight but since it does not spin, I cannot be absolutely sure.

My question is whether or not I should just go ahead and replace my entire hub, bearing, and race assembly, or should I just replace the entire spindle and hub assembly all at once? I ask because I found a good deal on the entire spindle and hub assembly that is only $20 more than the hub assembly itself. Thanks for your opinions.

[fleagt]

pull the bearings out first and look at them. Might have worn bearings.

[UroGator]

Originally Posted by fleagt

pull the bearings out first and look at them. Might have worn bearings.

I did that already and they appeared to be fine to me. What would worn bearings look like anyway? The metal looked perfectly fine and I did not see any scratches on the bearings or the races.

Do you think it is possible that the races may not be seated properly and therefore the bearings are rotating on top of an off kilter race? I can't really tell whether or not the races are completely seated properly.

[B.Roussel]

I would replace the spindle too if it will only cost you $20 more. If you don't get the spindle and it turns out to be the spindle then you will have to get one anyway so just save yourself the time and money(in the long run after buying another spindle and paying to have it shipped) and get it now. It can't hurt to have an extra spindle.

[cgtech]

Good bearings and races have a somewhat shiney appearance, and not rainbow colored (extreme heat). Bad bearings may be rainbow colored or more often a very dull grey (high milage/overloading).

[UroGator]

Originally Posted by B.Roussel

I would replace the spindle too if it will only cost you $20 more. If you don't get the spindle and it turns out to be the spindle then you will have to get one anyway so just save yourself the time and money(in the long run after buying another spindle and paying to have it shipped) and get it now. It can't hurt to have an extra spindle.

That's what I've been trying to tell myself as well. I just hate not knowing what the real problem was.

[PAPABEAR1]

post some pics..

[UroGator]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Good bearings and races have a somewhat shiney appearance, and not rainbow colored (extreme heat). Bad bearings may be rainbow colored or more often a very dull grey (high milage/overloading).

Bearings and races are all shiny in appearance.

[PAPABEAR1]

Does the spindle nut tighten as it should..Not stopping prematurely?

[UroGator]

Originally Posted by PAPABEAR1

Does the spindle nut tighten as it should..Not stopping prematurely?

Yes, the spindle nut tightens up to the bearing without a problem. I then back it out just enough to line the cotter pin hole up.