wired motor wrong on a EZGO and now it won't run.

[apostle]

My boss has a 1996 EZGO electric golf cart. It was behaving operatically and a local dealer told him to put in new brushes. We ordered them(250$!!), I took out the engine(forgot to label the wires!), took the engine(electric) apart and found the brushes to be in fine working order. So I put the motor back together, put it in the cart, and then DOOM. I didn't know which wires went where. There were two wires that were thicker than the other two, I hooked both these up to A1 and S1, and the skinny ones to A2 and S2. I hooked the batteries back up, switched from TOW/MAINTENANCE to run(didn't wait 30 seconds like it said todo though), hit the gas and the wheels turned! But then they stopped. the motor stopped turning and I don't know why. The solenoid still trips, and I know power is still going to the motor because the wires get hot.

I just downloaded a manual for this cart and shall be looking into it and make sure I get my wiring rite this time. Meanwhile, does anyone have any idea what sort of ill affects my mistake may have caused the motor?
Thanks in advanced

[yurtle]

The stickies have lots of manuals. Stickies are the first posts labeled Sticky:

A is Armature and S is Stator.

The armature is the rotating part, and the stator is the windings in the motor case, sometimes referred to as field windings.

[yurtle]

You should download the Owners, Service and Parts manuals.

[apostle]

Originally Posted by yurtle

The stickies have lots of manuals. Stickies are the first posts labeled Sticky:

A is Armature and S is Stator.

The armature is the rotating part, and the stator is the windings in the motor case, sometimes referred to as field windings.

Ah thank you, that helps alot!

[apostle]

UPDATE:

I wired the power cable per spec from the manual, motor failed to run. By wiring it wrong and then running power through it, could I have damaged my motor? I know that juice is getting to the motor, because wires heat up. What I would like to do is test the motor by hooking it up to my 12V car battery via jumper cables, if the motor is in working condition, it should run, right?

[JohnnieB]

Sounds like you are working on a DCS cart, so the erratic operation was very likely to have been early stages of controller failure, rather than brushes.

The DCS uses a Sepex motor (SEParately EXcited - aka Shunt wound or Parallel wound) and the controller feeds each set of windings separately.
I'm not sure if cross connecting the Armature and Stator (aka Field) windings did anything to the motor, but it might have.
More likely, it just helped the controller die sooner.

To check the motor, take the cables off (after labeling them ) and use an Ohmmeter to check continuity.
There should only be a few Ohms between A1 & A2
The stator windings are made from thinner wire, so you may read a few more Ohms between S1 & S2, which might be marked F1 & F2.
There should be no conductivity between Armature and Stator windings.
There should be no conductivity between either winding and motor case.
If the continuity is correct, the motor is good electrically.

You say the solenoid is clicking, so connect a DVM between the B- and M- terminals on controller.
You should read full battery pack voltage when pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to clink and then decrease to almost zero as pedal is pushed to floor.

If you don't get B+ when solenoid first clicks, there is and open someplace in the high current circuit.

If you get B+, but it doesn't drop to zero, check the ITS.
If it is okay, the controller is bad.

If all that checks out, more troubleshooting is needed.

BTW. You can find a schematic for a DCS drive system in topmost Sticky.

[scottyb]

I think your mis-wiring may have fried the control.

Don't replace the stock control, they have a built in fault (no low voltage protection) Upgrade to aftermarket control like a DCX400. You will gain more torque and speed.

[apostle]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

Sounds like you are working on a DCS cart, so the erratic operation was very likely to have been early stages of controller failure, rather than brushes.

The DCS uses a Sepex motor (SEParately EXcited - aka Shunt wound or Parallel wound) and the controller feeds each set of windings separately.
I'm not sure if cross connecting the Armature and Stator (aka Field) windings did anything to the motor, but it might have.
More likely, it just helped the controller die sooner.

To check the motor, take the cables off (after labeling them ) and use an Ohmmeter to check continuity.
There should only be a few Ohms between A1 & A2
The stator windings are made from thinner wire, so you may read a few more Ohms between S1 & S2, which might be marked F1 & F2.
There should be no conductivity between Armature and Stator windings.
There should be no conductivity between either winding and motor case.
If the continuity is correct, the motor is good electrically.

You say the solenoid is clicking, so connect a DVM between the B- and M- terminals on controller.
You should read full battery pack voltage when pedal is pushed just far enough for solenoid to clink and then decrease to almost zero as pedal is pushed to floor.

If you don't get B+ when solenoid first clicks, there is and open someplace in the high current circuit.

If you get B+, but it doesn't drop to zero, check the ITS.
If it is okay, the controller is bad.

If all that checks out, more troubleshooting is needed.

BTW. You can find a schematic for a DCS drive system in topmost Sticky.

I did the testing on the motor you said, it checked out good.

I connected My OHM meter to prescribed terminals, it read 36 volts when the solenoid first tripped, but when giving it full gas, it only dropped 6 volts. When you say "B+", what do you mean? I looked up how to test the ITS, but the instructions on doing so have baffled me.

On a side note, my boss hired a professional to look at the cart, he tore up the floor looking for the potentiometer, after doing this, the solenoid now trips whenever the key is turned, regardless whether or not the gas pedal is pushed. I know how a solenoid works and can see there are three switches that need to be on in-order for it to trip: the key switch, the maintenance switch, and a switch wired at the gas pedal. I know the key switch works, and the maintenance switch, but the pedal switch seems to allow current through at all times.

thanks

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by apostle

1. I did the testing on the motor you said, it checked out good.

2. I connected My OHM meter to prescribed terminals, it read 36 volts when the solenoid first tripped, but when giving it full gas, it only dropped 6 volts. When you say "B+", what do you mean? I looked up how to test the ITS, but the instructions on doing so have baffled me.

3. On a side note, my boss hired a professional to look at the cart, he tore up the floor looking for the potentiometer, after doing this, the solenoid now trips whenever the key is turned, regardless whether or not the gas pedal is pushed. I know how a solenoid works and can see there are three switches that need to be on in-order for it to trip: the key switch, the maintenance switch, and a switch wired at the gas pedal. I know the key switch works, and the maintenance switch, but the pedal switch seems to allow current through at all times.

thanks

1. Good news.

2. Hopefully you meant Voltmeter.
By saying B+, I mean fully battery pack voltage.
Only dropping 6V isn't good, either controller or ITS is bad.

ITS stands for Inductive Throttle System. Basically it is a coil of wire and when you push the throttle pedal, a metal rod is pushed into the coil, changing its inductance.

Quick check:
When solenoid clicks, the voltage on Pin-2 (Black wire) of the 10 pin connector on top of controller should be slightly above 14V, but under 16V.
If that is right, measure voltage on Pin-1 (white wire) while slowly pushing pedal to floor.
Should be about 0.5V when solenoid first clicks and goes up to greater than 1.5V when pedal is on floor.

3. Sounds like the "Professional" royally screwed up the throttle box microswitch.
When the pedal is up, the lever on the microswitch should be pushed toward the microswitch housing, opening the NC (Normally Closed) contacts.

The adjusting procedure is in the service manual.

[yurtle]

Get that puppy up on some jack stands!