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Old 11-19-2022, 09:40 AM   #21
dundeebarnbuggy
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Default Re: Club Car motor flood rescue

Your brush holder and brushes appear great considering. The end cap looks salvageable too! $#itcan the rest. Even if you can get it to run now, the corrosion in the windings WILL continue.
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Old 11-19-2022, 09:44 AM   #22
Volt_Ampere
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Default Re: Club Car motor flood rescue

If you have the time, it's worth trying to clean it all up and the only cost is a new bearing and your time. I've cleaned up sunken car starters and they worked fine for years afterwards - a smaller version of a DC motor. The steel brush holders always rust up enough to keep the brushes from moving freely.
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Old 11-19-2022, 10:52 AM   #23
sleeplesstwo
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Default Re: Club Car motor flood rescue

Thanks for posting pictures. I am guessing that there are not a lot of series Club Car motors laying around New Italy Australia like they are here in the states..

It looks terrible, but the electrons won't care. I would be cautious in your cleaning.
Possibly soaking in vinegar to remove some surface rust. I don't believe that would hut the insulative coating on the windings.

If you have already tested for shorts to the case and there are none, I believe you stand a good chance of it working. Not sure how long, but fun to try.

Do not attempt to run it on a bench. It will need to be in the rear end to support the motor. I would also test it without connecting it to your controller first. You may have already read about how this is done, but it involves a 12volt battery and some jumpers.
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Old 11-19-2022, 11:16 AM   #24
Volt_Ampere
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Default Re: Club Car motor flood rescue

When I rebuilt my motor, I disassembled it, hosed everything down and blew it dry with compressed air. That got rid of all of the brush dust that was everywhere inside. I would sand off the rust on the armature laminations on the outside and same on the inside where the field plates are. Wash everything well and dry it. The brush holders will require some wire brushing and sanding to remove the surface rust. The commutator needs to be cleaned up with sandpaper to get it bright and shiny. Most of the mess is cosmetic.
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Old 11-19-2022, 04:41 PM   #25
Farmerjim55
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Default Re: Club Car motor flood rescue

Quote:
Originally Posted by sleeplesstwo View Post
Thanks for posting pictures. I am guessing that there are not a lot of series Club Car motors laying around New Italy Australia like they are here in the states..

It looks terrible, but the electrons won't care. I would be cautious in your cleaning.
Possibly soaking in vinegar to remove some surface rust. I don't believe that would hut the insulative coating on the windings.

If you have already tested for shorts to the case and there are none, I believe you stand a good chance of it working. Not sure how long, but fun to try.

Do not attempt to run it on a bench. It will need to be in the rear end to support the motor. I would also test it without connecting it to your controller first. You may have already read about how this is done, but it involves a 12volt battery and some jumpers.
You are spot on. There aren’t a lot of used Club Car motors laying around down here…so it’s definitely worth trying to salvage what I’ve got.

Thanks for the test set up info. I’ve never seen that before and I will definitely be trying this and carrying out readings on my multimeters before connecting to the controller.
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Old 11-19-2022, 04:46 PM   #26
Farmerjim55
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Default Re: Club Car motor flood rescue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere View Post
When I rebuilt my motor, I disassembled it, hosed everything down and blew it dry with compressed air. That got rid of all of the brush dust that was everywhere inside. I would sand off the rust on the armature laminations on the outside and same on the inside where the field plates are. Wash everything well and dry it. The brush holders will require some wire brushing and sanding to remove the surface rust. The commutator needs to be cleaned up with sandpaper to get it bright and shiny. Most of the mess is cosmetic.
Yes, it looks horrible but I agree that most of it is cosmetic. Clearly I’ve got some serious cleaning and wire brushing ahead but it’s worth a try. I’m going to follow your example of hosing everything down and then using compressed air to get all the dust and crud out. Luckily, down here we don’t need an oven to dry. We just put it out in the sun! 😎
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Old 11-19-2022, 05:16 PM   #27
Volt_Ampere
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Default Re: Club Car motor flood rescue

Quote:
Originally Posted by Farmerjim55 View Post
Yes, it looks horrible but I agree that most of it is cosmetic. Clearly I’ve got some serious cleaning and wire brushing ahead but it’s worth a try. I’m going to follow your example of hosing everything down and then using compressed air to get all the dust and crud out. Luckily, down here we don’t need an oven to dry. We just put it out in the sun! 😎
That works here too. In the summer it would get way too hot to touch. :-)
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Old 11-24-2022, 11:49 AM   #28
ls1chris
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Default Re: Club Car motor flood rescue

if you wash it down , i would give everything a really good soak in isopropyl alcohol and let it dry for a week before you put current through it. the iso will displace the water and will dry without leaving residue. when i re-capp an arcade monitor chassis , i soak everything with simple green, then put the hose to it, blow off with compressed air and then into a bucket of iso for a final rinse then on my bench for a week to fully dry out. of the 50+ monitors i have been through i have yet to have a yoke short out ( a yoke is a winding of wires , same idea as the windings in the motor) when i do arcade / pinball boards, same process but instead of hose they go through the dishwasher.
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Old 11-24-2022, 12:17 PM   #29
Volt_Ampere
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Default Re: Club Car motor flood rescue

We used to run circuit boards through a dishwasher (prototypes hand built) to clean all of the flux off - then dry with a hair dryer.
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Old 11-29-2022, 06:50 AM   #30
hardhouseinc
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Default Re: Club Car motor flood rescue

Were you able to salvage anything? Any progress??

My STAR was no where near that bad with the motor but the frame was
probably way worse and I had to cut out portions and re-weld
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