FE400 gradual loss of power

[Kudzupatch]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

.....There is a pilot tube above that that usually needs to be cleaned as well. .......

Funny you say that. I just got through tearing it down a 3rd time (it is the charm, right?) because I learned that the tube was removable.

I had removed and cleaned the jet and tube passage with a brush. Not realizing it came out and had those tiny cross drilled holes in it.

Once I got it out it was dirty and judging by the stuff the carb cleaner rinsed out I think this is my problem. Left it soaking and will put it back on tomorrow.

Learned something new!

[Fairtax4me]

Yep. especially if the cart has had old fuel, ethanol fuel, or additives that have dried up in the carb, that tube will have junk or sludge all over it, and will cause problems getting the fuel up into the venturi of the carb. You should have it now!

[Kudzupatch]

Dang it! Almost there.

That tube was dirty and I cleaned it thoroughly. Heck, the whole card has been cleaned thoroughly (3 times now). It made a big difference, it doesn't stall off idle. There is still a slight hesitation but it is driveable.

But it is still got a misfire/stumble that has me stumped. At speed down the road you can fill the miss. Still acts like it is running lean but power is much better. A little choke will smooth it out and cause it to speed up on a hill.

I am going to replace the spark plug next. It looks great but I have seen it fix odd issues before. If that is not it I am really going to be stymied.

[CP241]

If choking it helps I’d still suspect a fuel issue over a spark plug.

Generally if the emulsion tube is gunked up, there’s gunk inside of all the tiny little passages in the carb body as well. I’ve had excellent luck cleaning these types of carbs with an ultrasonic cleaner full of “gunk” carb and parts cleaner (the stuff in the gallon pail at the parts store) when a standard “carb cleaner and compressed air” attack isn’t enough.

If you have use for an ultrasonic cleaner, they work wonders. But I’d hate to buy one, use it once, and then never touch it again. I’ve gotten my moneys worth (and then some about a hundred times over) on mine lol. But it may be worth just buying a new carb. I’d recommend OEM. The aftermarket ones are hit or miss.

[Kudzupatch]

Sorry. Covid hit our house. After 2.5 years we finally got it. Guess it is true virtually everyone will get it.

I am with you and suspect fuel issues too. But a sparkplug is cheap and once I can I am going to try it.

Not that I really expect it will fix it. But I had a pressure washer that was giving me fits HUNTING at high speed. My small engine man blamed the pump. I read somewhere on line that a Honda engines hunting was a plug. To my shock it was. So while I am not one to throw parts at a problem it is worth a try.

No ultrasonic cleaner but considering buying one. Cheaper than a new carb. Have you priced them? Harbor Freight has a cleaner for 89$ and if it works that would be a bargain. Actually has good reviews and I have a hundreds of bronze screws from a boat restoration project that I could clean with it.

[CP241]

I got my US cleaner off Amazon several years ago. It is a 2 liter capacity and works great for small engine carbs, though there are times I wished it was slightly larger. The one equivalent to the one I have (stainless steel tub) is like 69 bucks on Amazon now. Think I paid 80 something 4 or 5 years ago.

It has the heated function which really makes a difference. I use the gunk brand parts cleaner, the stuff that’s about $30 for a one gallon paint can sized pale at the parts store. I heat it up to 50 degrees (C which is approx 120 degrees Fahrenheit, enough to make the solution quite hot but not near the flash point of the chemical. I did always put the cleaner in the middle of concrete juuust in case but never had an issue. Better safe than sorry). I take the carb completely apart, anything that will unscrew off it gets removed. The tray/basket that comes with the gunk works awesome in the cleaner because it won’t lose the jets and small pieces. Usually 20 minutes or so is all it needs, though I’ve had to do a second round with really nasty carbs before.

Take it out and blow everything out really well with compressed air. Every hole, passage, corner, etc.

I’ve only met one carb I couldn’t save with it, and it literally crumbled when I tried to unscrew the jet it was so corroded… but I’ve cleaned some REALLY funky carbs to function perfectly. Worth every penny imo. If you’ve got other things you can use it for then it may be worth it. I just would t recommend it for someone necessarily to use once for one carb and then never touch it again.

[Kudzupatch]

With all the fatigue from covid and not feeling like working, I have been reading reviews and doing a little shopping. Realized that the cleaners are not that expensive, well worth a $100 to me. New carbs are running $565-600. Parts kits is $69 so it is no brainer.

I have a couple of chainsaws, pressure water, lawnmower, etc. Lots of little carbs and they are the almost always the part that gives trouble. As I said, I am restoring an old wood boat and I can see this bring great for cleaning small parts on it too.

Debating on what size because I know I find more and more uses for it. I am leaning toward a little larger one. Great idea on the carb cleaner basket.

[CP241]

The bigger the better

If I were to do it again I’d probably get the 3 liter one but my 2 liter has served me very well

[Kudzupatch]

I am stumped!

Got it cleaned in the ultrasonic. New plug. Checked to make sure the pump had good flow and at least some pressure.

Still doing it.

[Fairtax4me]

Check the governor cable to see if it's getting hung up.
Disconnect both ends and see how freely it moves. It should slide around like a greased up hog in a slop pen.
If it feels like it has any binding or there is any fraying on the cable replace it.