Loud after rebuild 350

[Carry-All]

I am new to the Cart world got a 2006 Carryall for nothing have been dumping money into it ever since

I redid/replaced my valves on the Kawasaki 350 and its seams to have a bearing sound I think?

I just don't know what it should should like?

Link of my motor running

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e9i75FUz7HU


Any help would be appreciated

[CP241]

I replied in the other post, but I'll paste it here to keep things cleaner and organized.

That sounds like either rod knock, or counterbalance weight link rods knocking. If you just rebuilt the motor then my money is on the link rods. If you pull the CB weight off and remove the crankshaft, the up/down play will be pretty obvious.

They make a lot of racket and when they get loose enough theyll come off the pin on the CB weight and it has itself a party in there, usually leaving a nice hole in the back of the motor.

On the FE290 they are available separate and replaceable. You'll need a shop press to remove the gear to get to the front one. On the FE350 they are aluminum and I believe you have to buy a new crankshaft.*

Or you could remove them all together. Theres a decent bit more vibration at lower RPM but once you start driving it, it smooths out. I cant personally say how they do long term but several people on here have removed them and had no issues long term.

[CP241]

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=157962

[raydhd]

Brad Porcellato used to just take them out of his HP engines because they are a high failure point on higher output engines. I just looked him up on youtube and he now sells a book on all aspects of hot rodding your club cart. He used to have a whole series on club cart engines on youtube. BUT they are down now so no more free how to videos. Again now he is the club cart engine master.

[Carry-All]

Thanks for the information just to confirm I pulled the main belt can you have a listen and let me know if that the case?

Only did the valves not the bottom end

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0fwcIpw-2DA

[CP241]

It's either rod knock or counterbalance rods knocking. My money's on CB link rods, rod knock is pretty uncommon in these motors in comparison.

Wont know for sure until you take it apart

[Carry-All]

OK thanks again

[Carry-All]

one last question is there any you tube or instructions on how to tear-down and replace the counterbalance weight?

[CP241]

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/showthread.php?t=160310

https://www.buggiesgonewild.com/show...mower+club+car

Those both I used FE290 but the 350 would be the same.

[buggyAl]

Carry-All

I just finished my second 350 rebuild. I went a little different route. My cranks were damaged beyond repair. 2 very trusted machine shops would not weld and regrind because of heat distortion to the crank during welding. I ordered link rods for the FE290 and had the crank concentric journals ground to fit these rods. It was $150 per crank for the grind. Only other internal modification was to grind a small amount off of the counterweight. See photo. This was ground to have clearance for the crank. The FE 290 link rods were a few thousands shorter than the 350 rods. Regrinding the journals an even amount could not be taken off all the way around. This would have cut into the main shaft diameter of the crank. We had to offset the grind to allow for this and keep the concentric journal. Thus interfering with the clearance with the crank. I have 12 hours on the first rebuild of this with no problems. The advantage of this approach was to
A) keep the counter weight - less vibration
B) not spend $500 on a new crank
C) install a link rod with replaceable bearing