30mm tapered shafts on OHV's ?

[Freezeman]

I am wanting to convert a Club Car Kaw. 9HP flathead to a new OHV. I am assuming some are made with 30mm nonkeyed tapered shafts so that I can utilize the old clutch/starter primary.??
Sort of wanting to buy one of them cheap 13HP clones from Harbor F.
I guess I could cut a taper on there 1" shaft. Yet I do need clock wise spin when facing the flywheel. Could someone point me towards the right direction?

[Flintrock]

Most are 1" straight shafts. Here's an adapter from one of our sponsors that will allow you to use your tapered clutch on the straight shaft-cheap and pretty easy!

http://www.cartpartsplus.com/tapered...h-adapter.html

[sho305]

I just used one of those, it worked great. See my thread in yamaha gas under 'clone specs...' and posted photos in there. This is the CC that turns the normal way right (kaw engines), not the backwards one?

Anyway I had no room to the gas tank or carb to shock on the yami. The adapter comes with a sleeve you can space it out on the crank with. I had to cut the crank all the way back to 1 1/8" most I could so the clutch goes up to the shoulder, didn't use the spacer. It worked well though. Had to drill the hole in crank deeper and tap 1/2" for the yami bolt was a pain but worked out fine. Then made the motor mount so it aligned with the stock generator (and secondary) same as before, 16hp and it works like a charm starts just like a stocker.

I got the 16hp from carolstream for 380 tmd, I called them but they are on ebay. It sets you back in the seat when you hammer it. So far not a lot faster on top with no governor on this or the old stock engine, but gets there much faster. Not done jetting it though and have not run it fast that much until it gets some hours on it. Also not checked the clutches to make sure they are shifting all the way and all that.

If you want to remove the governor, best to do it before you start you can reuse the gasket. Had to press the gear shaft out and back in with no gear, in the side case, used a hand press. Then drill/tap the hole 1/8 pipe thread, you can hold a rag in there and use grease on the drill and tap if needed. You can turn the crank carefully and it will stay in time. Another issue is if you want to advance the timing, you can file the key down to do it or mod the holes in the coil for some, the karting places say how I think AGK does some of it. Much easier to do before you put it in, or you can buy a cut key too. I don't know what gains you will get but they seem to make them rev on top better. The clone ignition is like a lawnmower, you only need to ground it to kill it. I'm going to run a relay off the ignition hot in the cart to open running and ground for off. Right now I just turned the idle speed off and it dies when you stop. I also got the electric start engine just in case plans change later. The stock air filter is cheezy piece of foam, the kart places say you need high flow intake and exhaust to get rpm out of them and they can run up to 5K stock with that, we will see.

Once I emailed B&S tech support and they told me they did not make an engine with a 30MM taper. I did find a 20hp vanguard sold by a place that raced buggies in a stock type class that had the taper, maybe they machined the crank not sure.

[Freezeman]

Thanks for the info. I am an old kart racer and have heard of other builders mounting an engine on their lath bed, starting it and machining the crank shaft.
Here is the motor I would love to be putting in it.
http://engines4racing.com/index.php?page=tech-f1-i

[curtisL]

thats just like a 250f motor from a dirt bike!

[sho305]

I would be looking for a thumper bike or ATV as a doner if you want that on a budget. Some of them run quite good with a pipe some have four valves too. I guy used to go by my house with a single road bike and it had some bark to it, a road bike engine might have a wider powerband than dirt bikes, I would guess, if you are running a clutch kart.

I would guess you could machine the crank, though a 30mm is larger than 1" so they must have built the crank up first. The smallest part of the taper is around 1". It would be easy enough to weld or key a spacer on and cut it down.

[CharlieFoxtrot]

Thanks for posting that taper adapter! How do you cut the crank shorter? Can it be done with the engine assembled?

I'm trying to repower some Club Car XRTs from 14 to 18 hp, but the 305447-0110 16hp engine that gwoolsey56 mentioned in another thread is the only upgrade with the tapered 30MM crank I've found so far.

To make matters worse, the helpful folks at Equipatron say that number supercedes a few times, until you end up with the same 14hp motor I already have. So I have to find any remaining inventory of the 16hp, because that's all there is. Or get 18s and cut the cranks...

Thanks!
kevin

[pachanga90]

The best way to cut the crank,is with a 4" cut-off disk on an angle-grinder.It can be done with the engine assembled.Hope this helps.

[sho305]

I used an air grinder with a worn out chop saw blade on it....which is just a larger cut off wheel. You may have to drill/tap the hole deeper. The crank there is not hardened or anything, you could cut it with a hack saw but its not as much fun. Geoff at vegas carts is talking about getting 440cc clones with a taper crank.

[CharlieFoxtrot]

Thanks, guys! FYI, these Club Car XRTs have 14hp Vanguard V-twins with CVTech TrailBloc clutches (stock) and pull 2400-5500LB all day, every day. They ran 5000+ hours in 2 years of full-time service and one year as backups to my new Kubota RTV900s.

I have new transaxles (I think the same ones that surplus page is selling for $300 - I paid 4x that much at Club Car :( ) and new clutches, and I'm just trying to sort out what engine I can upgrade to. I think I'm going to get 18s and cut the cranks, thanks to y'all!

Happy Motoring!
kevin