I may have burned up a motor.

[SC_BAX]

I was carrying my Daughter and two friends to the game a half mile away.
I made three trips back to back the last one was over loaded. It was 98 outside and felt like 300.
The cart ran fine on the last trip back My wife got in it and it was no go.

The cables that run from the F/R switch were hot enough to burn you. My fingers are still stinging.

The motor has hot also.

The solenoid clicks when the peddle is pushed and the controller is flashing 4 green lights.

The pack voltage was 36.8 but went to 37.3 the hour or so will i had a fan on it.

All connections are tight on the motor, F/R switch and controller.
There is no burnt smell in battery compartment
Do I start with the switch or motor? What voltage do i need to see on each?
Voltmeter in hand.
Bax

[kgsc]

Series cart we assume with an Alltrax? Chances are something melted in the Fnr.

[SC_BAX]

Yes kgsc.
Just probed the FnR switch and did not see any readings on the cables going to the motor.

[LukeL]

Are you using 2 guage cables for everything? Sounds like a melted cable could be the culprit too.


Club Car DS driver’s club #59

[SC_BAX]

Cables are 6 gauge I think. Looking at that now to see if a cable is melted.
2 gauge cables and another battery is the next up grade.

[LukeL]

Originally Posted by SC_BAX

Cables are 6 gauge I think. Looking at that now to see if a cable is melted.

2 gauge cables and another battery is the next up grade.

I’m not sure which controller you have but I’m assuming it is an Alltrax because of the four green lights. I would never use any Alltrax controller without a minimum of 4 gauge cables.


Club Car DS driver’s club #59

[LukeL]

Take a look at this:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...eeded-g8e.html


Club Car DS driver’s club #59

[SC_BAX]

update: I used the Alltrax toolkit to check out the controller everything is working.

Solenoid is working and getting 38 volts.

The F/R switch I have 38 V between the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock only. I think that is correct but I'm not sure And the voltage only goes up slightly when the peddle is pushed down.

What terminals on the motor can I take a reading on?

Luke: The cable upgrade is planed the wife said I can only spend so much money on the mistress!

[SC_BAX]

Luke WOW Same here but an 8HP I don't have any burnt smell and all the cables look ok. Going to go under and check voltage to the motor I can have a better look at the cables.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by SC_BAX

update: I used the Alltrax toolkit to check out the controller everything is working.

Solenoid is working and getting 38 volts.

The F/R switch I have 38 V between the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock only. I think that is correct but I'm not sure And the voltage only goes up slightly when the peddle is pushed down.

What terminals on the motor can I take a reading on?

Luke: The cable upgrade is planed the wife said I can only spend so much money on the mistress!

Connect your DVM's black test lead to the main negative terminal on the battery pack.
Press pedal just far enough to make solenoid click.
You should now read battery pack voltage on all four studs on the F/R switch.
If not, some of the switch contacts are not making contact.

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Since some of the cables on the F/R switch studs got too hot to touch, the F/R switch has most likely been trashed. (If the plastic board holding the stationary contacts in position, gets hot enough, the contacts will move and no longer be in the proper position to make contact with the moveable contacts on the cam.)

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FWIW: The first upgrade on any cart ought to be replacing all the high current cables. 4Ga minimum with stock controller and aftermarket controllers up to about 400A.