Leaf Battery swap in 2012 Club Car Precedent

[DaveTM]

Originally Posted by ag4ever

Well, ordered a new kit, hopefully it will be here Tuesday.

Where did you find a terminal kit with enough terminals to handle the BMS wires?

[ag4ever]

Time to make charger cords.

The TC Charger comes with 3 types of connectors.

2 for the DC output

3 for the AC input

5 for the CANbus

I used “SO” cord for both the DC output (10 gauge) and the AC input (12 gauge). The local box store only had 10/4 for the DC output which actually turned out better. I was going to use 10/3 which has white, black, and green wire; but since they only had 10/4 I got red with it. The first thing to do is strip the 2 conductors out of the cord that will be used. I carefully slit the cover with a razor blade, being sure to only go half the depth of the cover at most. It does not take much of a score to allow you to strip the covering.

Once the covering is removed, it is just a matter of untwisting the needed conductors, and start terminating.

These type of terminals require the correct crimper. It is not the kind you find in the big box store. This one crimps part over the wire and part over the insulation for strain relief. Be sure to place the housing seal over the wire before installing the terminal. Strip, crimp, repeat.

Next, orient the terminal so it clips into the retainer of the housing, be sure the correct polarity is in the correct position. Insert till it clicks and repeat. Stuff the seal in the housing.

[ag4ever]

Next, repeat 3 more times for the AC supply.

The only heat shrink I had that would fit over the housing was clear, and was not a high recovery type, so I double layered the heat shrink.

On to the CANbus. I started stripping the wire. I think Ian shipped this 4’ length of wire, but since my charger and BMS came at the same time on the same DHL delivery van, I hastily opened them both and can’t remember which box this wire came in. Either way, it was a PITA to strip the insulation without cutting the wire. After finally getting it stripped, I grabbed the terminals, placed the wire in it, and stopped.

I looked at it over and over. There is no way I would get a good termination with this tiny wire in that terminal. This wire is at best 28 gauge. So I decided to pack it up, and try again tomorrow. Hopefully I will find some better wire. I have bunches of cat 6, cat 5e, cat 6a. But I am not thrilled using solid core wire in a vehicle. Hopefully I can get my hands on some fire alarm wire or intercom wire.

[ag4ever]

Originally Posted by DaveTM

Where did you find a terminal kit with enough terminals to handle the BMS wires?

Amazon. You would do just as well running down to the box store. I just hate the plastic on those connectors, so I always strip it off. I want to see the quality of the crimp and feel that cheap plastic just hides it. So I just ordered a kit with a random assortment of sizes that don’t have the insulation on them. I know I will use them for something.

[DaveTM]

I plan on drilling (and tapping?) a hole in the copper bus plates for the Leaf Batts. Is there a size that is preferred, or can I simply use an electrical self-tapping ground screw? Just as Blfinch has done in his setup below:

[ag4ever]

Originally Posted by DaveTM

I plan on drilling (and tapping?) a hole in the copper bus plates for the Leaf Batts. Is there a size that is preferred, or can I simply use an electrical self-tapping ground screw? Just as Blfinch has done in his setup below:

I never understood why the bus bar was drilled and tapped on that one. Why not just use a ring terminal under one of the bolts to the pack terminal? It looks neat though and provides a means of disconnecting the tap wires without disconnecting the bus bars. I also don't understand the purpose of the last (-) bus bar. To me, that one is unsupported and could vibrate loose rotate down and short out on the first mid pack balance tap.

Majority of the power flow will be from the copper at the battery terminal to the bus bar, the bolt is just there to hold the bus bar firm to the copper on the battery and is not a path for current per se. Adding a ring terminal there would not change the current capacity or flow in any meaningful way.

[DaveTM]

Originally Posted by ag4ever

... Adding a ring terminal there would not change the current capacity or flow in any meaningful way.

Well now......why didn't I think of that?


BTW....can someone provide me with the model number of the large fuse holder? Eaton has one #4164. It's rated 125-V, but 30amps. Don't I need a higher rated AMP holder?

Nevermind. Found what I need on Amazon!

[ag4ever]

Originally Posted by DaveTM

Well now......why didn't I think of that?


BTW....can someone provide me with the model number of the large fuse holder? Eaton has one #4164. It's rated 125-V, but 30amps. Don't I need a higher rated AMP holder?

Nevermind. Found what I need on Amazon!

I just got this. It came with 2 holders and 2 fuses.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

[ag4ever]

Not much to report today. Mom called with an emergency, had to bypass a leaking hot water heater. After I got done impersonating a plumber, came home and finished charger plugs.

I was able to find some 18 gauge intercom wire (18 awg, 4c, shielded). Plan to use that for my can bus wires.

Attached is the can terminals for the charger, and after insertion in the housing. Thanks go out to e36racer on keeping me straight on which wire goes where. The photo shows the back side of the connector and the manual that came with the charger.

I assume the 12v5a terminal should not be connected since the bms provides the necessary power to the can devices.

[Jkerle]

Looking good man!