Converter and fuse box quick question

[KyChuck]

Would this be an appropriate wiring option?

[webwarmiller]

A 4 wire voltage reducer should have 2 input wires that connect directly to your battery pack (I would add a fuse on the positive side as close to the pack as possible). The 2 output wires from the reducer would then connect to your fuse box.

[Cobra,1]

Agree with above post.
Negative and positive from battery pack voltage to reducer. From there a negative and positive 12 volt out to fuse block with each 12 volt accessory having it’s own fuse coming off fuse block to lights,horn,ect. Doing so protects reducer if a 12 volt accessory shorts out
What brand model reducer do you have.
Are you replacing a reducer or adding one.?
Also switched or non switched reducer?

If switched reducer meaning power to reducer is only on when key switch is on.
Switched wire connected to key switch on position.
Or non switched reducer that supplies pack voltage to reducer all the time.
If I switch reducer,recommend adding a switch to turn on off pack voltage to reducer to eliminate minor but parasitic amp draw from battery pack when not in use.

[KyChuck]

Thanks...
Cobra to follow up on your thoughts...

Adding reducer and fuse panel.
Not sure on brand (20 Amp 48 to 12v)

Reducer is not switched. All accessories but one have their own switch to turn off. The only thing I can't shut off is a usb socket that has led trim lighting. I did not plan to put a switch on this so devices could be plugged in and used/charged while cart was sitting in off position.

Converter is fused on positive side from battery pack.

Everything was hooked up, headlights (switched), two usb ports (one switched), led undercarriage lights (switched)...

All components worked as they should when wired like the picture I posted (posted again here), but just didn't seem right.

I want to also educate myself as to why that set up worked, but might not be correct.