Volt meter/Voltage reducer stay on all the time with install of Alltrax controller

[Machetero]

2016 Club Car Precedent

I just upgraded to an Alltrax XCT 500 controller, solenoid and D&D high speed/high torque motor.

With the stock set up, voltage meter (Rhox digitial readout) was hooked up to key switch and turned off when turned key to "off" position.

With install of Alltrax controller volt meter now stays on all the time, regardless of whether key is in "on" or "off" position.

Rhox voltage meter has 3 wires - red, black and yellow

Red wire from Rhox meter hooked up to red wire from cart
Black wire from meter hooked up to yellow/black wire from cart
Yellow wire from meter hooked up to blue key switch wire from cart

This is the correct wiring according to directions that came with Rhox volt meter.

Do I need to wire it differently since the install of an Alltrax controller? I would like for the volt meter to turn off when I turn the cart off.

In addition, I have also installed a Reliance 48v to 12v voltage reducer and am having the same issue with that - not turning on and off with key switch but staying on all the time.

Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

[StumpNocker]

Does the cart still drive with the key off? Maybe the key switch is not breaking contact in the off position so it's not really being turned off, possibly?... others will probably have better troubleshooting ideas

[Machetero]

No the cart does not drive with the key switch off.

Today, I used a volt meter to test the key switch. In the "on" position the key switch lead gives the proper 48 volts. However, in the "off" position the key switch wire is giving around 17 volts (and I think it should be zero).

Anyway, it seems as though there is some residual voltage coming through the blue wire connecting to the key switch.

I do have headlights, brake lights, horn and turn signal hooked up directly to battery pack. Do you think those accessories are creating some type of back flow current to the blue key switch wire?

[WalterM6]

Here's a SWAG. Have you disabled the old stock voltage reducer? That might account for the 17v difference. Also make sure the system common and the reducer common are the same. Rereading your post you need to connect the headlights, brake lights, horn and turn signal to the new power supply. The blue wire connected to the 4th battery is connected to the new power supply 12v out, don't forget about disabling the old one.

[Machetero]

Ha I didn’t even know it had a stock voltage reducer. Where is that located?

[PingEye3]

The Blue wire at the KS is the HOT 48v feed to the switch. The Green is the switch leg or load side of the switch. If you want the meter to power on when KS is ON, wire to the Green side of the switch. And as WalterM6 said, the factory reducer, 16-12V will give you that funky voltage reading with KS off because it was connected directly to the batteries. It is mounted up under and behind the front shocks. Pull dash plate off and disconnect the T-harness that goes from the dash panel area to the front reducer, then plug the remaining connectors back together without the reducer in the circuit. You will then have to move the hot for light harness originally connected to the batteries, to the new 12v fuse panel connected to your new reducer. If you are using the blue dc converter with 5 wires, the green trigger wire can go to the KS or to the solenoid light blue wire, whichever is more convenient for you. Then it will power on only with KS.

[Machetero]

Thank you for the explanation. I will try what you suggest. I appreciate it.