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Old 02-08-2021, 06:40 PM   #11
steamcheng
Not Yet Wild
Yamaha
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Buggs Island Lake
Posts: 7
Default Re: Yamaha G14 engine woes

Well, I got a few things done today. First, I got a few things together and manufactured another generator tensioner bracket. The one that came off was broken and looked like this:


You can see where the break happened some time ago and the ends had been banging and wearing together for a while causing the mushroomed appearance. I found a piece of scrap the right thickness I had saved from one thing or another and made a crude layout for the new part. I located the holes and then located the slot as best I could and marked centers for drilling. Then it was over to the milling machine to drill the holes and mill out the slot.


Chain drilling the slot to make milling it out easier.


This is the first time in 15 years I used the rotating base for this vise. I didn't really have to, but it was easy to set up and get the slot oriented right for milling it out.


After a few minutes with a hacksaw to get it cut to rough dimensions, an then a few more minutes at the pedestal grinder and belt grinder, we have the finished part. It fit right on the motor and will make it a lot easier to get things back together. I think this worked out a lot better than trying to weld it back together.


That's it for now. The "magic bolt" arrived today - the clutch puller. I got the clutch pulled off (took about 15 seconds, including unwrapping the package the tool came in). Photos of the revealed innards to follow later!
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Old 02-09-2021, 04:12 PM   #12
steamcheng
Not Yet Wild
Yamaha
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Buggs Island Lake
Posts: 7
Default Re: Yamaha G14 engine woes

OK, yesterday the magic clutch puller arrived, which allowed me to get into the crankcase and finish tearing the engine down. I think it took about 30 seconds to remove, including opening the package and taking the puller out. Tightened the bolt by hand, then put a ratchet on it and gave it a good tug and off she popped.



After a lengthy interlude with foamy degreaser and a scrubby brush to remove all the schmoo that collected behind the primary clutch pulley, I got down to removing the crankcase bolts. I consulted the maintenance manual to make sure the right order to loosen them, and then removed all of them. The crankcase has handy little notches in the left and right sides of of the cover to allow use of a large screwdriver to pop the case open. Then you just lift it off carefully.

Everything inside looked pretty good, and I didn't find any metal shavings or loose pieces. I wasn't really expecting to, but when opening a piece of unknown equipment, you never know what you'll find. When we pulled the head, I did note that there was old evidence of something having dinged the top of the piston, but the rings were not broken, so whatever it was, it must have been a while since it happened. At any rate, there wasn't anything unusual in the crankcase - good news. I took extra photos for myself of all the parts properly mated and oriented so I will be able to get the crank, cam and balancer all properly aligned when I put it back together.



Everything came out without difficulty. I spent a good bit of time cleaning things up inside. Since the rings were (presumably) shot, it wasn't a huge surprise that the innards smelled strongly of gasoline since there must have been a good bit of blow-by. There was a little bit of sediment in the sump, but nothing terribly out of the normal. All wiped out fairly easily. I made sure to mark the valve tappets so I get them back into the right place too.

So after removing the piston, I decided to remove the rings. Like a dingleberry, I ended up breaking the top compression ring. It may have been cracked slightly and I finished it off, but I couldn't tell from looking at it afterwards. Anyway, the other rings came off without incident, so perhaps that one was damaged and I just finished breaking it. They're all getting replaced anyway, as is the piston, so no sweat. Here's a photo of the piston with the lower compression ring still on it.



After getting things all apart, I went about measuring things again. The bore is just within tolerances for rebuild without re-boring, so it's going back together like that. I get just under 2.954 pretty much throughout. I'm not sure my gauges are good enough for me to read to the thousandth when transferring to micrometer, much less the ten-thousandth, so we won't sweat it. Concentricity and taper were well within limits, so all in all, I'm happy with it.

I confirmed substantial wear on the rings. Neither the oil rings nor the remaining unbroken compression ring end gaps were close enough to read with a feeler gauge. Both were in excess of .030. There was evidence of the oil ring spreader having contacted the cylinder wall, so as they say, "well there's your problem!"

Here's a photo of the oil ring squared up in the cylinder for measurement. When I put the yardstick across it, I think I got somewhere north of .035 end gap, give or take. Max allowed is .028 for the oil rings.


I spent the rest of the day today cleaning things up and waiting for parts to arrive. I think the motor mounts are coming tomorrow, but my rebuild kit isn't even showing as having been shipped yet. I'm out of town this weekend, so probably not going to get things back together until next week.
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