80 cc 36v not moving

[slvfd019]

i am a newbie to carts, i have a 1980 cc 36v, no clicking from the solinoids? whats my 1st step check micro switch or change master thanks

[OLD MEC]

Go to basic's and check battery for charge and condition, them clean ALL battery cable ends and check contacts. You really need a single float hydrometer ( auto parts store )and a digital volt meter ( Harbor Freight $5.00 ) to run and maintain your cart batterys. Look at STICKIES ABOVE for "State Of Charge Readings"
Then you can finally start to check what the problem is AFTER confirming batterys and cables are in good operating condition.

[shadowman]

if batts and cables are good and its a 5 solenoid cart jack the rear up and jump the large post on the master solenoid furthest left one...if you jump it and cart runs replace it...............................................8 )

[slvfd019]

ok i jumped the solinoid it will run so i swa;pped solinoid still does the same thing the solinoids will not click when pressing the gas pedal

[OLD MEC]

Have you checked battery and cable conditions, without battery power you wont have any clicking etc happening? Its like a car with the key turned off if you dont have 36 plus volts you have nothing.

[slvfd019]

all my batteries test out good 6.41 all connections good i am shocked and dumbfounded

[slvfd019]

ok this is my next question, what makes the solinoids click is it when u press the gas peddle and activate the microswitch? is it the f/r micro switch? i swapped the solinoids and can jump to make run just not clicking by them selves ? what makes em click

[OLD MEC]

In the early "stock" carts ( I find that many carts that old have been converted in some manner ) like yours there was either 4 or 5 micro switches inside a white box with red ends mounted on top of frame rail under drivers seat. Connected to pedal and inside the white box is a plastic board afair cut in various lengths that touches micro's in sequence that turns on solenoids to change speed.
The tracing order is as follows
#1 power to key switch
#2 power from key switch to micro on back of F&R switch
#3 power from micro on F&R AFTER either placed in F or R to 4 or 5 micro's inside white box with red ends
#4 micro in white box to first solenoid ( master power feed ) that feeds through brass bar to other solenoids
#5 micro's in white box to the other solenoids to give changing speed by going through solenoids to large coil resistors in sequence
Hope this helps you check for problem?

[slvfd019]

thanks old mec! i was at a stopping point like i said i am a newbie , i have a 1980 club car ds, i got it for the whopping cost of FREE somehow the owner burnt a wire inside the motor , i got it repaired and ran it with the batteries they had in it for about a year and i just repaired it, after i fix it i want more SPEED thanks again

[OLD MEC]

Now "SPEED" on an old CC like yours means either major changes to late model parts, Curtis PB-6 throttle control, ALLTRAX solid state controller, Solenoid, 4 gauge wiring, HD F&R switch, 6 new 8 volt batterys OR 2 additional 6 volt batterys to make a 48 volt cart out of your 36 volter, OR TRADE UP TO A 2000 and up "DS CC" with 8 volt batterys.