F&R Rocker switch conversion on DCS

[chriskent85]

I found a thread that had the directions on how to do this but i cant seem to find it now, I have a club car F&R swith and switch housing that im wanting to mount up on my DCS cart. I know there was something about a diode becas when one switch is activated i goes foward or reverse not sure which way, then when you turn the factory switch it activated both switches at one time, does anyone know how to wire this up. thank you

[JohnnieB]

Not sure how the CC F/R switch works, but if it is a SPST/Center-off/ like the PDS F/R switch is, here is how you do it.

[chriskent85]

yes, it is, basically it will look like scotty b's kit without the reversing contactor, I hate the switch on the dash, it feels too much out of place.

[kgsc]

If it is the club car switch it is a DPDT. Is the DCS switch setup just switches and no diodes ? If so just imagine the switch as two singles with one of the pair going to the center and the other going to a side. Do the same with the other pair to the other side. Forgive the crude diagram.. I'm using a tablet with a touch screen mouse.

Jb, this look right ?

[chriskent85]

You wouldnt happen to know what size diode to use would you?

[chriskent85]

i have a 3 prong swith, not a 6 prong. one power in, center, and f&W out on sides

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by kgsc

If it is the club car switch it is a DPDT. Is the DCS switch setup just switches and no diodes ? If so just imagine the switch as two singles with one of the pair going to the center and the other going to a side. Do the same with the other pair to the other side. Forgive the crude diagram.. I'm using a tablet with a touch screen mouse.

Jb, this look right ?

The F/R in later DCS carts had a cam whose circumference was similar to that of the cam used in series cart and one microswitch (Run) was closed in F while both microswitches (Run plus Reverse) was closed in R.

Earlier carts had the same two microswitches, but the F/R lever only closed one switch or the other, so a diode was needed to get the cart to run in reverse. (The Top microswitch in the Early DCS diagram is mislabeled. It should be labeled "Run" and the diode should probably be called "Reverse Run Diode".)

The stock controller in a PDS cart has a separate input pin for F and R, so a simple SPDT switch works.

To use a SPDT (or DPDT) switch with a DCS controller, a diode is needed.


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Draw a vertical line between the two columns of three contacts. Then you would have two SPDT switches side-by-side, the middle contact being common and the top and bottom being the NC and NO contacts.

[kgsc]

Okay just found this again for two reasons.. The DCS cart I am looking at has two micros and the puck. In forward and reverse the drivers side micro closes. In reverse the passenger side closes. Mine doesn't because I think the switch is bad but... Jb you said I would need a diode if using a DPDT switch. One one side of the switch I would run one of the wires to the center then jumper the outer two connections to the other wire so in f or r it would be closed. Then take the reverse wires and run one to the center of the other side of the switch and one of the outer terminals. Would I need a diode for this?

Also this cart I am helping with fried the solenoid post on the B+ pas side. I think his son towed it without flipping to tow.. I checked the DCS resistor board diodes and they appear to have failed shorted. I read somewhere in another post you thought you could replace this board with just a plain precharge resistor and put a diode on the small posts. Would that work..? I have these pieces and can order the DCS resistor but hate to waste the money if the controller is fried anyways.. It looks good but you never know.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by kgsc

1. Jb you said I would need a diode if using a DPDT switch. One one side of the switch I would run one of the wires to the center then jumper the outer two connections to the other wire so in f or r it would be closed. Then take the reverse wires and run one to the center of the other side of the switch and one of the outer terminals. Would I need a diode for this?

2. I read somewhere in another post you thought you could replace this board with just a plain precharge resistor and put a diode on the small posts. Would that work..? I have these pieces and can order the DCS resistor but hate to waste the money if the controller is fried anyways.. It looks good but you never know.

1. Part of the statement I made in post# 7 is wrong.
(To use a SPDT (or DPDT) switch with a DCS controller, a diode is needed. )

With a SPDT switch you do need a diode, but with a DPDT switch you can do it without a diode.

Both of the microswitches on the DCS F/R assembly are fed by pack voltage from the Run/Tow switch. Connect those two wires to the C terminal of the DPDT switch. (Or jumper the C terminals and only use one of the wires, they are electrically common.)

Connect the wire going to the keyswitch (yellow) to both of the NO contacts of one side of the DPDT switch.

Connect the wire to Pin-4 (orange) to only one of the NO contacts on the other side of the DPDT switch.

The should fed pack voltage to both the keyswitch and Pin-4 with the toggle flipped one way (Reverse) and only to the keyswitch when flipped the other (Forward).

2. For testing and troubleshooting purposes, neither a pre-charge resistor or a diode is needed.

I never have been able to figure out the reason why EZGO put a diode across the contacts of the solenoid in a DCS. A diode was placed across the solenoid coil to prevent (reduce?) arcing on the pedal switch contacts when they opened and the coil generated a high voltage spike as the magnetic field collapsed. To the best of my knowledge, an arcing problem does not exist when the solenoid contacts open because the duty cycle of the throughput is zero when the pedal is up.

On the other hand, a pre-charge resistor is needed across the solenoid contacts to keep the filter capacitors in the controller charged. If not installed, the capacitors will draw a huge amount of current when the contacts close and arcing will occur during the contact bounce that occurs during closure.

With few exceptions, I'd just install a pre-charge resistor across the solenoid contacts and a diode across the solenoid coil just about all carts and toss the resistor/diode boards on the DCS carts in the trash.

The exception(s) is some controllers keep the filter capacitors charged from a source other than the B+ terminal on the controller. The new XCT controller being one of them.

[kgsc]

Perfect.. I just want to test this cart to see if they destroyed the controller/motor. Pack side of the solenoid had just meted enough to sever a 4 gauge cable end. Resistor board reads bad diodes but they would have melted first if they were the problem. I am going to put a precharge on the main lugs, a diode on the small lugs, put my extra heavy duty safety glasses on, push it outside next to the hose and touch a battery terminal to connect it all. If no big time fireworks, Ill get the 10ft stick of PVC and hit the run/tow switch. If still no fireworks we will try the Go pedal.. If it runs forward fantastic. If no reverse I'm 99% sure the reverse switch is bad. Read open on the DVM closed or not.. But if all the other works I'll just convert it to a push button..

Thanks JB and I will let all know.. With pics