2004 CC Precedent “main driver OFF” fault...

[twilliams81]

Originally Posted by NoleFan4Ever

And be sure when you tested that solenoid small posts it was like this:

(Cart jacked up, key on, rocker switch in Fwd, and pedal depressed)
And remove both wires from the solenoid before testing in case there is something damaged on the inside of your solenoid
1- Take your DVM and place the red lead on the solid blue wire and the black lead on the main pack negative. You should get 48vdc
2- Next, take your DVM and place the black lead on the blue/white stripe wire and the red lead on the main pack positive. You should get 48vdc

Ok so today pack voltage is 49.11 and with both LARGE posts OFF the solenoid I did the test like you said and I’m getting 48.44V on the POSITIVE small terminal and 3.63 on the NEGATIVE small post. These readings are the same WITH and WITHOUT pedal engagement. I reconnected the large posts and the same results on the small posts and 49.01 on the BATTERY side of the LARGE posts and 47.80 on the CONTROLLER side of the large posts; same reading with the pedal pressed or NOT pressed. I’ve got a solenoid to replace this one with but I’m wondering if it’ll make any difference.

Also I did the discharge test by unhooking the batteries and still nothing. Looking more and more like a controller issue.


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[NoleFan4Ever]

Those test results verify your controller has lost its solenoid driver as you are not getting the Negative activation. You will have to replace the controller now.

Your other readings for positive activation, and the large posts, are as they should be, so if you want to test the solenoid for correct operation, remove the cables and wires, then take a jumper wire from the pack positive and run it to the small post that had the blue wire attached, then a jumper wire from the pack negative to the small post where the blue/white wire was attached, it then should close in and you will hear it. Then take your continuity meter and hook the leads to each of the large posts and if you have continuity, the solenoid is good, if you do not have continuity (or it did not "click), you have a failed solenoid.

In either case, and as Tahoe stated, replace the suppression diode before installing the new controller (and be sure the banded/striped end is towards the Blue positive activation wire) and if you have a polarized solenoid (+ & - predetermined), then replace the solenoid itself.

And don't forget to reinstall to reinstall your pre-charge resistor onto the top posts. And if you don't have a controller laying around, save some money and time and replace it with a Alltrax XCT-300 as a stock replacement or the 400 or 500 if you plan for more down the road. (And if you go with an Alltrax, you will not need a precharge resistor or suppression diode, but you will want a 6 amp Regen Diode for the top posts....)

Controller are here: https://www.revolutiongolfcars.com/a...ct-controllers
http://www.cartsunlimited.net/alltrax-xct-sepex--.html

[twilliams81]

Thanks so much Nolefan!! I’ll replace the controller, solenoid and diode and let you guys know how everything works out.


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[NoleFan4Ever]

Check out my last paragraph above, I added options and info if you go away from the stock Curtis controller.

[WalterM6]

if you go away from the stock Curtis controller

Which brings up the next question. Just what kind of controller do you have on it? I was assuming an Alltrax SR.

[twilliams81]

I’ll check on all that Nolefan but I’m thinking since i may resell it I may just go back stock.


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[NoleFan4Ever]

Originally Posted by WalterM6

Which brings up the next question. Just what kind of controller do you have on it? I was assuming an Alltrax SR.

I hope not since it is a SepEx cart....