G2 oil change gone wrong - engine coming out

[J-ROB]

Well, I am a bit embarrassed to say that while performing the second oil change on my new to me G2, I must have over-tightened the oil drain plug and I think I stripped the threads on it. It's embarrassing because I am only a newbie to golf carts, not to turning wrenches. I've owned a few vehicles with aluminum oil pans and never had an issue. I also have a '70 Honda QA50 and Trail 70, both of them I use and maintain and have never over-tightened the oil drain plugs on those.

I think this Saturday bright and early this engine is coming out of the cart so I can properly address a couple of things. I have already replaced the hose that delivers oil to the valve cover, but the whole engine is caked in oil and grime and it smells like hot/burnt oil every time I drive it. So I will pull the engine out and degrease everything, replace any vacuum or oil lines then address the two big issues I have.

1. I guess I will replace the oil plug with a slightly larger self tapping style. Anyone have any thoughts on performing this task? Would I be better off to drill and tap with a proper tap and then just buy a larger oil plug?

2. The oil fill neck - does not stay in, it doesn't just fall out, but wiggles around and you can easily lift it straight out of the motor. I have tried putting an O-ring on it but then it slides in until the o-ring and doesn't go all the way down. I have also tried some high heat / high vibration RTV to see if that would lock it in place, didn't work. A user here CP241 I believe recommended JB welding it in. I bought the JB weld, and while I know CP is 100% correct I just have a hard time wanting to use JB weld. In my mind its like slapping some duct tape on something (no offense CP). If there is in fact a different solution that isn't as permanent as JB weld I'd like to go that route. Anyone who has torn apart a G2/9 engine please let me know how the oil fill neck is secured to the block from the factory?