Voltage reducer wiring

[jasonojordan]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Do not run the reducer off of the key switch. It definitely doesn’t have the current capability to run it. Hook up straight to the pack. If you want it switched buy a 36 volt relay and run that through the key switch. The meter should have pack voltage on pins 1 and 2. Pin 4 should be hooked to the B terminal on the key switch.

Interesting that the key switch can't handle 5amps or less being switched.

[Volt_Ampere]

It's the current surge when connecting the reducer that will kill the key switch - and almost any other cheap switch. I strongly favor 5 wire reducers that have a trigger wire to turn them on/off. Those you can control with the key switch.

[jasonojordan]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

It's the current surge when connecting the reducer that will kill the key switch - and almost any other cheap switch. I strongly favor 5 wire reducers that have a trigger wire to turn them on/off. Those you can control with the key switch.

Good to know.

[Fisherob]

Originally Posted by radioman

Using a relay to do this might be a better way. Use the key switched 36 volts to energize the relay. Run a fused circuit (15 amp) from the battery positive through the switched relay contacts to the input of the reducer. This would eliminate any guess work about using the key switch current carrying specs. You would need a 36 volt solenoid or a relay with 10 to 15 amp contact rating.

Is there a recommended relay to purchase? Item number? I'm really not familiar with relays to know what I'm looking for.

[radioman]

Originally Posted by Fisherob

Is there a recommended relay to purchase? Item number? I'm really not familiar with relays to know what I'm looking for.

If you are not familiar with relays you might be better off using a simple on off switch. The less you poke around in a working golf cart the better. Get a switch rated at around 15 amps and wire it from the positive terminal of the battery with a fuse between the battery and the switch so if you accidentally short out something or the reducer fails it will blow.

[treyclash13]

Add switch between positive and reducer done. Lift the seat turn it on when u take it out the garage and when ur done for the day switch it off. That draw from the reducer is only relevant when sitting for days.

[Fisherob]

Thanks for everyone’s input on voltage reducer install. I really appreciate all the help. I was successful in wiring the reducer to an on and off switch and adding a fuse box. Now all 12v accesories are working off of the reducer instead of 2 6v batteries. Thanks again.

[kgsc]

Originally Posted by jasonojordan

Interesting that the key switch can't handle 5amps or less being switched.

Problem isn’t with the switch. It is the wiring feeding the switch. All that is part of the activation circuit and small gauge wire plus if the reed switch is still there it won’t handle much.

[jasonojordan]

Originally Posted by kgsc

Problem isn’t with the switch. It is the wiring feeding the switch. All that is part of the activation circuit and small gauge wire plus if the reed switch is still there it won’t handle much.

Thanks for the additional knowledge on why it would not work!

[Cobra,1]

You can buy 36 volt 30 amp cube replays off Amazon. I got 3 for 11 bucks.
Mine are 48 volt or I would sent you a spare.
The relay is just a switch that allows the amp load go thru the heavier wiring opposed to the smaller less amp rated wiring on starter key switch.

When turning on key, relay switch’s on convertor.. Safer way in my opinion.


I posted about how to connect relay to the key switch and what relay contacts to use on relay about a year ago on here. 😊