2005 Club Car Precedent. No click

[jasonojordan]

Originally Posted by Rdangeau

No. I was on each side of solenoid

Have to go to the pack - way you tested it is not correct. Both sides of the solenoid are +. You want to check each side to pack -.

[Rdangeau]

Originally Posted by jasonojordan

Have to go to the pack - way you tested it is not correct. Both sides of the solenoid are +. You want to check each side to pack -.

Okay. Did not know that. I will check today. What about key switch? Had nothing at key switch with key on or off. Full pack voltage at controller

[Fairtax4me]

Do all of your testing with your black meter lead clipped on the battery pack negative.

[Rdangeau]

Originally Posted by Fairtax4me

Do all of your testing with your black meter lead clipped on the battery pack negative.

Full pack voltage at all solenoid posts. Full pack voltage at B+ and M- at controller.

[Rdangeau]

Originally Posted by jasonojordan

Have to go to the pack - way you tested it is not correct. Both sides of the solenoid are +. You want to check each side to pack -.

Full pack voltage at key switch with key on. With key off only green wire has full pack voltage.

Reverse buzzer has full pack voltage

[jasonojordan]

When I was chasing issues with my cart I had bench tested my solenoid to make sure it would open and close. This can be done by using + and - 48v (if the cart is 48V cart like I think it is)

As you remove power from/reapply to the small terminals of the solenoid it should click open and closed. If it does that then its not the solenoid.

Based on information earlier in the post it does not sound like the F/R switch.

Have you done any testing with the throttle switch?

[Rdangeau]

Originally Posted by jasonojordan

When I was chasing issues with my cart I had bench tested my solenoid to make sure it would open and close. This can be done by using + and - 48v (if the cart is 48V cart like I think it is)

As you remove power from/reapply to the small terminals of the solenoid it should click open and closed. If it does that then its not the solenoid.

Based on information earlier in the post it does not sound like the F/R switch.

Have you done any testing with the throttle switch?

It’s brand new solenoid. The old solenoid was doing same thing. But the diode was broken so I just replaced solenoid and diode at same time.

But it sure won’t hurt to do the test that u described. Don’t know about the throttle switch. I have done every test in the service manual and everything is checking out. There is something I’m missing. I have all connections disconnected from controller. Gonna go back this afternoon and reconnect.

Any suggestions would be appreciated

[jasonojordan]

Originally Posted by Rdangeau

It’s brand new solenoid. The old solenoid was doing same thing. But the diode was broken so I just replaced solenoid and diode at same time.

But it sure won’t hurt to do the test that u described. Don’t know about the throttle switch. I have done every test in the service manual and everything is checking out. There is something I’m missing. I have all connections disconnected from controller. Gonna go back this afternoon and reconnect.

Any suggestions would be appreciated

If it is a new solenoid I would not expect it to be bad but never know I guess. I am still leaning towards something with the controller got wet from its bath.

[Rdangeau]

Originally Posted by jasonojordan

If it is a new solenoid I would not expect it to be bad but never know I guess. I am still leaning towards something with the controller got wet from its bath.

It definitely got wet. It doesn’t have the plastic protective cover either.

[jasonojordan]

Originally Posted by Rdangeau

It definitely got wet. It doesn’t have the plastic protective cover either.

Bummer! Sounds like on your car the controller number was different then mine and mounted in a different location (Mine is back in the motor compartment)

But if by some way my controller will work for you its still available if for nothing else testing purposes!