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Old 11-17-2022, 10:14 PM   #21
Komodo1982
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Default Re: DCS solenoid non-activation saga continues

Quote:
Originally Posted by radioman View Post
Are you sure you have the correct pedal microswitch? The correct switch should have a normal closed contact at rest but held open by the pedal cam. When the pedal is pressed the switch lever falls off to normal (closed).
Yes I've verified it. Normally closed. Pedal holds it open until pressed and then it closes and gives continuity. I disconnected the wires from it as well to ensure it was functioning.
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Old 11-18-2022, 07:19 AM   #22
radioman
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Default Re: DCS solenoid non-activation saga continues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Komodo1982 View Post
Ok Fellas heres what I have,

SolarRat:
The wiring appears to be factory, the beeping is a beep-beep-beep (continuous) and the Run/Tow circuit between Pin 9/10 as well as the Run Tow Switch OHM out.

Radioman:
Yes im getting 37.4VDC on Pin 10

I checked the entire solenoid activation circuit (in red) on the diagram and it all checks good. I also checked all PINs on the controller with the Key On, Pedal up, In FWD and in Run/Tow in Run.

1. .5vdc
2. 14vdc
3. Ovdc, but probably because the beeper is going on-off-on-off
4. 37.4 VDC
5. Ovdc
6. 37.4VDC
7. 0vdc
8. Blank
9. 37.4vdc
10. 37.4vdc

I was gonna go pull the "rebuilt" 1206SX out and pop to cover to see if anything is damaged that was missed during the repair but there is a void warranty sticker on it now.

Any thoughts where to go next?
If pins 6 measured 37.4 VDC and pin 7 0VDC with pedal up, those two wires connect directly to the solenoid small terminals which should indicate the solenoid should be energized. Something is not adding up. Is it possible the solenoid is energizing and dropping out when you press the pedal? If you had measured this voltage on the solenoid terminals you should have measured 37.4 v on one and 0 volts on the other.
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Old 11-18-2022, 07:34 AM   #23
Komodo1982
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Default Re: DCS solenoid non-activation saga continues

Radioman,
These test were all performed with the precharge resistor installed and only a diode between the small posts. Does this matter?

Also the pinout you quoted in your last post was checking from the pin on the controller to the negative post of the battery, not B- on the controller. The post from last night is where I checked all pins against the controller B- and B+
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Old 11-18-2022, 07:41 AM   #24
radioman
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Default Re: DCS solenoid non-activation saga continues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Komodo1982 View Post
Radioman,
These test were all performed with the precharge resistor installed and only a diode between the small posts. Does this matter?

Also the pinout you quoted in your last post was checking from the pin on the controller to the negative post of the battery, not B- on the controller. The post from last night is where I checked all pins against the controller B- and B+
B- is the battery negative sometimes referred to as ground.
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Old 11-18-2022, 08:24 AM   #25
Komodo1982
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Default Re: DCS solenoid non-activation saga continues

Quote:
Originally Posted by radioman View Post
If pins 6 measured 37.4 VDC and pin 7 0VDC with pedal up, those two wires connect directly to the solenoid small terminals which should indicate the solenoid should be energized. Something is not adding up. Is it possible the solenoid is energizing and dropping out when you press the pedal? If you had measured this voltage on the solenoid terminals you should have measured 37.4 v on one and 0 volts on the other.

Radioman,
Yes I agree that seeing voltage on pin 7/6 is showing the solenoid has voltage applied, what I think is still NOT happening is that pin7 is not providing ground through the "Repaired" controller. I believe this because as soon as I manually ground the small post of the solenoid that pin 7 is attached to, the solenoid activates.
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Old 11-18-2022, 08:49 AM   #26
SolarRat
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Default Re: DCS solenoid non-activation saga continues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Komodo1982 View Post
Key On, Pedal up, In FWD and in Run/Tow in Run (*connected to battery neg termanal).

1. .5vdc
2. 14vdc
3. Ovdc, but probably because the beeper is going on-off-on-off
4. 37.4 VDC
5. Ovdc
6. 37.4VDC
7. 0vdc
8. Blank
9. 37.4vdc
10. 37.4vdc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Komodo1982 View Post

Next is taken from B- on the controller with the key on, in FWD but with pedal up.

1. 5.1
2. 8.4
3. 0
4. 5.6
5. 5.6
6. 32
7. 0
9. 0
10. 32
These two sets of numbers should be virtually the same. The B- on your controller should be directly connected to the battery's negative post with a large cable. And some test results seem backwards, which is what Radioman was getting at. As for the resistor/diode...shouldn't matter for the basic tests, unless the diode is backwards.

If your multimeter is trustworthy...which I'm starting to doubt, you need to go back to square one and make sure the batteries are installed correctly, and they are correctly hooked to the controller/solenoid. Something very basic isn't adding up here.
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Old 11-18-2022, 09:02 AM   #27
radioman
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Default Re: DCS solenoid non-activation saga continues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Komodo1982 View Post
Radioman,
Yes I agree that seeing voltage on pin 7/6 is showing the solenoid has voltage applied, what I think is still NOT happening is that pin7 is not providing ground through the "Repaired" controller. I believe this because as soon as I manually ground the small post of the solenoid that pin 7 is attached to, the solenoid activates.
See if the voltage measurements are the same at the solenoid terminals as the controller 7&6. The controller must be grounding the relay otherwise you should measure voltage on both pins through the relay coil. Maybe open wire? Carefully inspect the Battery minus cable to the controller. If the B- cable is good, it should make no difference which B- you used as a reference. There is something suspect with your battery B- cable to the controller.
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Old 11-18-2022, 09:20 AM   #28
SolarRat
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Default Re: DCS solenoid non-activation saga continues

I'm starting to think pin 6, and the positive small post on the solenoid are not always getting B+. It may have some voltage through resistors and coil windings, but not a solid B+, and the voltage will disappear under any load..

Their B+ needs to pass through the interlock, the tow/maint switch, F/R switch and the key switch. All of those must be working correctly for there to be a true B+ at pin 6.

You can bypass all of these for testing purposes by putting a jumper wire from B+ to the positive small solenoid terminal. This may make your results more repeatable.

If you are testing with the charger plugged in, the interlock switch won't send B+ to the solenoid. The jumper will solve that.
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Old 11-18-2022, 09:23 AM   #29
SolarRat
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Default Re: DCS solenoid non-activation saga continues

Quote:
Originally Posted by Komodo1982 View Post

below are the readings taken to B- on the controller with the key on, in FWD and pedal down.

5. 37.4

7. 37.3



below are the readings taken to B+ on the controller with the key on, in FWD and pedal down.


5. 37.4

7. 37.4
This is just not possible. We have a saying in the IT world...GIGO
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Old 11-18-2022, 09:32 AM   #30
Komodo1982
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Default Re: DCS solenoid non-activation saga continues

Quote:
Originally Posted by SolarRat View Post
These two sets of numbers should be virtually the same. The B- on your controller should be directly connected to the battery's negative post with a large cable. And some test results seem backwards, which is what Radioman was getting at. As for the resistor/diode...shouldn't matter for the basic tests, unless the diode is backwards.

If your multimeter is trustworthy...which I'm starting to doubt, you need to go back to square one and make sure the batteries are installed correctly, and they are correctly hooked to the controller/solenoid. Something very basic isn't adding up here.
Took some pictures to aid in identifying if I've hooked something wrong.

The B- on the controller is hooked directly to battery B-
The diode is installed correctly with banded end toward B+ Battery input.

B+ cable Runs from controller side of solenoid to B+ on controller as well as A2 on motor

A1 on controller runs to A1 on motor
Also verified the multimeter resistance on known good wire off cart as well as battery in a seperate vehicle
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