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Old 12-05-2022, 02:51 PM   #1
trymes
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Join Date: Jul 2020
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Default 1975 CitiCar - Motor Hot Lamp & PCB

I'm not certain if this is really the right place for this, as threads about CitiCars and ComutaCars pop up in many different forums here from time to time. Anyhow, I have a '75 CitiCar that has the "Motor Hot" lamp continuously illuminated, even when stone cold.

This circuit is controlled by a printed circuit board that bolts onto the back of the speedometer, and it seems to me that it has failed. Specifically, the board has four wires connected: +12V, -12V, the lamp, and the wire to the motor. The service manual states that one should ground the wire going to the motor if the lamp is always illuminated, and if it doesn't go out, then the issue is with the board. In my case, grounding the output to the motor does nothing.

Does anyone have a circuit diagram for this board, or even some decent information on them before I just send it in to somewhere and try to have them repair it blindly?
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Old 12-06-2022, 11:02 AM   #2
Turnofftheradio
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Default Re: 1975 CitiCar - Motor Hot Lamp & PCB

nice to see another citicar here. I recognize your board from the facebook group. One thing you mention here is that you only had 4 wires connected. I could swear I only had one open pin on mine. I've attached the best pic I have from before I changed all the wiring, but I cant really tell how many are used in it. Mine had hairline cracks on just about every solder joint, and was similar in condition to yours. Best of luck getting this sorted, there are some electrical guys here much more advanced than myself.

Edit: after looking again closely, I think we have different revisions of this board. yours doesn't have that large yellowish capacitor at all? so maybe not a good comparison. mine is a 77
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Old 12-06-2022, 02:25 PM   #3
trymes
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Default Re: 1975 CitiCar - Motor Hot Lamp & PCB

We definitely have different revisions. There are only four connectors that serve any purpose on my board (two are just connected together).

I have reflowed the solder with flux, so I don't think that cracked solder joints are the issue.
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