Club Car DS 2004 Works in reverse not forward

[chickenhead822]

Hello:

I have a 2004 Club Car DS purchased used. Its a 48V with 6 year old Trojan batteries. Worked for a year and motor died. Replaced with an AMD #3258 48V motor that matched original motor based on my research. Batteries are older but still read well at 8.4V - 8.5V each and and 50.4V across the set. After replacing motor, it will move in reverse, but not move forward. When I push the pedal for reverse I get a soft click from the solenoid, then a louder click when I release the pedal. When in forward I get a soft click, no movement, then a louder click without releasing the pedal about 2 seconds later.

- I have checked all batteries cables, water in batteries, all good
- I have checked continuity on F/R rocker switch, all good
- I went through procedure to reset OBC, but not sure it actually reset
- I took pictures of all wiring as I disassembled to replace motor and clean batteries, so all good with connections. I have also confirmed wiring connections with the wiring diagram on this site.

Any idea why I cannot get forward movement? Any help would truly be appreciated. I am new to working on this cart and trying to learn as much as possible.

Thanks!!
Mitch

[mymonstertruck]

Sounds like a bad solenoid or it's stuck some how.

[chickenhead822]

Thanks! I will run through the solenoid test then. I didn't realize it worked differently for reverse and forward. Thought it simply transferred the power to the motor. Learning something everyday.

[mrgolf]

How did you know the old motor was dead? Most of the time when we work on things that were operating properly, and they do not work after we work on it. We have not done something correct. I would double and then double check again all my wire connections. Make sure they are good tight connections, and connected to the proper place. Also if you saw or caused any sparks then you may have burned something in the controller. Could be as simple as a wire not hooked that is hiding behind a connector or something.

[chickenhead822]

I had a tech do a service call since I was very new to working on carts. He did some tests at my house, said the motor was shorting out and needed to be replaced or rebuilt. The cart had stopped working as we were going down the driveway. He said he could take the cart and do the job but it would be $150 just to take it to the dealer, then $600 for a motor ($300 if it could be rebuilt). I operate a restaurant so feel good about troubleshooting electrical equipment, so decided to go it alone (with help from this forum) So, I started digging into the diagrams and such. I have gone through all the connections, but haven't delved into the controller. Unfortunately, when I was removing the motor, I did cause a very small spark at the F2 connector on the motor.

I suppose if the solenoid passes and the wiring is all tight, then I possibly zapped something in the controller. I am guessing that will mean a replacement controller? It doesn't look like it has a fuse between the motor and being stupid. haha.

Really appreciate all the feedback on this. Thanks!!

[mymonstertruck]

After you mention not having the controller fused, it would be nice if they started making fused controllers. It would save people a lot of money.

[mrgolf]

Do you know anyone you could borrow a controller to test with from? I think you are on the right track now. I'm not sure but the f2 is likely the forward cable and the spark took out that part of the controller. Try putting cart it tow, disconnect the battery and swap the f2 with the f1 and it will likely go forward.

[chickenhead822]

AND...we have a diagnosis...don't do anything that causes a spark/short directly back to the controller.

Switched - at the controller's S1 & S2 posts - the blue wire (F2 to S2 on controller) and orange wire (F1 to S1 on controller), reattached the battery cable, put the cart in reverse and it went forward, put the cart in forward and it wouldn't do anything. I know that sounds confusing, but it did let me know that the S2 post on the controller is blown.

Everything else seems to be working fine, so wonder if there is a way to repair that one post? Or will I have to replace the entire controller?

Thanks again for all the great insight.

[mrgolf]

I think you need a controller. Might as well put a higher amp unit on it.

[chickenhead822]

Thanks, MrGolf. I figured that would be the case after pulling the controller and seeing no way to get it open. Wish I had not just purchased a new motor, I would have upgraded that at the same time. oh well. I will start my hunt for a best upgraded controller to match new motor.

I am so addicted to this now....been looking for a cheap cart I can take down to the wheels and back up again.