Synthetic enamel

[acelynn]

I'm new to painting, so whats the difference between synthetic enamel and acrylic enamel both with hardner. Is one easier to lay on or does acrylic enamel dry faster.
The reason I'm asking is a parts store is clearing out some PPG paints and they are mostly synthetic enamel. They are all gallons and I can get them at a real good price but if synthetic is going to be a pain I'll pass on them. Thanks for the help Lynn.

[Simplex]

Wow, a question that I may able to help answer! As the owner of a restoration shop (model-a-ford.com) we are a PPG shop, and generally speaking it is the quality of the components that go into the paint which is the difference between those two. The Synthetics are a little inferior to the Acrylics just because of the durability and purity of pigments. They generally do not last as long and the colors are usually not as "clean". Some people may not be able to tell a difference while others with a trained eye can spot it from 10 foot away. And, synthetics typically will not "shell up" (exterior hardness) like the acrylics will. Where this is most noticed is if you are going to colorsand & buff as the harder surface is easier to make flat.

I tend to sway towards being a 'detail fanatic' and so I generally like to use the best that is required so I would tend to shy away from the synthetic. For your intended purpose for this paint may not require it to be top quality, and therefore this may be a value. The one other thing to consider is, ...if you have spent many hours bodyworking & prepping your piece(s), is this an area where you want to skimp on when it comes to the finish coat that everyone sees? Good luck.

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[acelynn]

Thanks for the help. I guess I'll just wait for a good deal on acrylic enamel or eurathane, don't want to waste my time and labor.

[rib33024]

Originally Posted by acelynn

Thanks for the help. I guess I'll just wait for a good deal on acrylic enamel or eurathane, don't want to waste my time and labor.

as Simplex is telling you thats his job so he can tell the differents , if your not a body and paint man, you will never know the differents between the to paints, so if you can get the paint cheap I would buy it and use it you will never no, and this is a golf cart were talking about not a 50.000 dollar car or something that would matter

[Simplex]

Originally Posted by rib33024

as Simplex is telling you thats his job so he can tell the differents , if your not a body and paint man, you will never know the differents between the to paints, so if you can get the paint cheap I would buy it and use it you will never no, and this is a golf cart were talking about not a 50.000 dollar car or something that would matter

Good advice on a different point of view! I guess I would ask "acelynn" just how much cheaper is this paint, ...and what is going to be the intended use for it?

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[jwhall]

Synthetic enamel is very easy to get runs in it too. I prefer acrylic enamal and clear coat.

[acelynn]

Using a hardner would'nt this decrease the the drying time and have less chance of runs or am I just dreaming. I planned on putting a clear coat over the synthetic to increase the sheen. Thanks again for the input.

[Simplex]

Well, .....'Yes', --and 'No'. The hardener will actually help make the paint "harder" which decreases it ability to scratch, and it allows the surface to be sanded/buffed where it maintains that "flatness". Remember, it is just like a lake, when the water is calm without ripples, it is easier to see down through to the bottom. The harder "shell" (the surface of the paint) makes it easier to sand it flat.

With regard to runs, that is more technique than hardener. Generally speaking, a 'colder thinner" (i.e. DT860) will allow the paint solvents to flash off quicker meaning the surface will become sticky quicker. Applying your first coat with a colder thinner and just fog it on will make what is commonly referred to as a "tack coat". When the next coat of paint material is applied and it clings to the sticky surface which allows that next coat to adhere to really well without running. This is ideal except that when using a cheap gun, the tips & nozzles cannot atomize (bust up) the paint into fine particles like the high-end guns can, therefore you run the risk of more trapped air which is what causes the texture known as orange peal as additional coats of paint are applied. Now, if you use a hotter thinner, the solvents are made to release much slower into the air which is great because it allows the paint to flow out. The bad side to this is it can easily flow too much and right off the side of your "masterpiece". Therefore the trick is to be able to control the amount of paint and make it flow just up to the point where it is ready to run, ....but doesn't. In a paint shop environment where we have different levels of thinner, we can custom mix our solvents (thinners/reducers) based on air flow in the booth, air temperature in the booth, and whether the paintis being applied to a horizontal or verticle surface.

Now, with all of the above said (sorry for the length) if you are already going to use clear, ask them to give you a price comparison on a base color in either PPG's Shopline or their Omni line. You may find that it is cheaper to purchase the exact color you are seeking in a base, and then come over the top with either their good quality DBU line of clear, PPG's 2002 or Omni's SpeedClear. The better quality of base just means the pigments will be more brilliant. The better quality of clear generally means the UV hold-out will be better (generally not an issue if it is to be garage kept) and the clear is usually more pure in depth. Also, the 2002 has a harder shell which means you can colorsand it and buff it to a higher lustre that lasts longer. The downside is you are paying more money for better ingredients. Like mentioned above, be honest with yourself in how good it really needs to be.

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[Simplex]

One other thing that I am sure you know but it always bears mentioning is any catalyzed paint contains isocyanates which can kill you!

I have lost several friends who for whatever reason would not wear proper safety gear when spraying this stuff. It really isn't just enough to only wear a respirator because your body will absorb the iso's through the skin and even your eyeballs. Just make sure when you are spraying this stuff you have proper ventilation and you protect yourself!

[acelynn]

Thanks Simplex for all the good info. I'll check in to shop time and the omni line paint. I'll be using a finishline gravity feed gun made by Devillblis and I also have a good repirator. I'll make up a portable spray booth with a fan in the rear. Where I live its to cold to spray outside so I'll duct it out a window in my heated garage. No open flame in the garage so no worry about explosions. Thanks again.