How do I get a "Super" Paint Job

freddmc · 01-20-2010, 07:51 PM

What is a "dryer"?

Fred.

freddmc · 01-20-2010, 08:03 PM

Actually, I do get your point-finally.
And it is exactly what I was hoping to hear.

Thank you.

Fred.

master66 · 01-21-2010, 09:14 AM

Fred
So I wasn't sure if you understood what the dryer was or not so what Dooms speaks of is an in line air dryer, this removes any moisture from the airlines when spraying, they sell some fairly chesap one at the auto paint store for about $50. Moisture in paint is very bad because what will happen is you will get little bubbles in you're paint job that will eventually just seperate from the paint. I really think you can do this if you wish, just go to you're local automotive paint supply store and tell them you would like to look at color chips for the base/clear eurethane systems. It is actually better to find a color you like on a car and remember what kind of car it is and tell them that and then look at the chips, they should be able to direct you with what system, reducers and hardeners to use. Make sure you have a very clean spray gun and that should eliminate the striping as long as you have the fan wide open and hold it about 12" away from what you are spraying you should be good.

freddmc · 01-21-2010, 11:06 AM

Master 66

In fact I do have a dryer on my system.
When I read dryer I was thinking it was an additive in the paint.

Thanks

Fred

freddmc · 02-03-2010, 12:04 AM

Master66 said
"Make sure you have a very clean spray gun and that should eliminate the striping as long as you have the fan wide open and hold it about 12" away from what you are spraying you should be good"

Just a further question about the base coat.
When I spray a one part paint the idea is to get a nice wet coat yet not get runs. I understand that in a base coat the same is not necessary, rather you only need to get enough paint for even coverage. Does this mean that you can spray with the gun further from the surface in order to HELP avoid "tiger strips". In other words you don't need heavy coats as the shine comes from the clear coats.

Is it difficult to paint using metal flakes or are they treated like "heavier" metallic?

Thanks

Fred

master66 · 02-03-2010, 08:56 AM

Fred
You are somewhat correct in that yes you don't have to apply such a wet coat of the basecoat as you would for say like an acrylic enamel. I personally wouldn't go really light though otherwise you will be there a while trying to achieve coverage, and keep the gun at the normal position. When applying the base you should go for 50 to 75% coverage over the last pass you made and alternate you're pattern, go side to side once then maybe up and down and so on, this should also help with striping.

master66 · 02-03-2010, 09:00 AM

Sorry missed the last question, you will need to use a little bigger tip for some of the larger metal flakes as apposed to a normal tip for mettalics. Not sure what gun you are using but I use a 1.4 tip for mettalics and clear on my Sata.

freddmc · 03-01-2010, 10:08 PM

So now I'm getting ready to lay down the base coat. I'm using Nasons and have got it primed. After I apply the base coat do I sand it and if so what grit?
And what grit do I use to color sand the top coats?

Also how many coats of clear? Can you apply too many?

Thanks

Fred Mc.

master66 · 03-02-2010, 09:24 AM

Fred
First remember to sand you're primer before applying the base coat, 400 grit or above works fine. After applying the base there is no need to sand it, just wipe it with a tack cloth and start the clear. Also I wouldn't let the basecoat sit to long before clearing, they say to clear within 24 hrs but as long as you do it within a couple days you will be fine.
As far as clear goes three coats is just fine, you can do more but these systems reall aren't designed for any more than that, the more you add after that will lead to more yellowing eventually, but depending on what color you are doing it might not matter "like black for instance".
The wet sanding after the clear for the buffing usually is done with 2000 grit.Good luck and shoot us some picks when you are done.

freddmc · 03-02-2010, 07:55 PM

Here are some pictures of the base coat. I noticed that there are some faint "stripes" from, I presume, uneven sanding of the primer so I will let it dry overnight and give it another couple of coats tomorrow.

I rigged up a "turntable" of sorts so it is a little easier in a crowded shop. The color is Ford maroon color.

Clear coating is next.

Fred Mc,.

01-20-2010, 07:51 PM	#11
freddmc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 218	Re: How do I get a "Super" Paint Job What is a "dryer"? Fred.
freddmc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 218

01-20-2010, 08:03 PM	#12
freddmc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 218	Re: How do I get a "Super" Paint Job Actually, I do get your point-finally. And it is exactly what I was hoping to hear. Thank you. Fred.
freddmc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 218

01-21-2010, 09:14 AM	#13
master66 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2009 Location: Marysville Wa Posts: 699	Re: How do I get a "Super" Paint Job Fred So I wasn't sure if you understood what the dryer was or not so what Dooms speaks of is an in line air dryer, this removes any moisture from the airlines when spraying, they sell some fairly chesap one at the auto paint store for about $50. Moisture in paint is very bad because what will happen is you will get little bubbles in you're paint job that will eventually just seperate from the paint. I really think you can do this if you wish, just go to you're local automotive paint supply store and tell them you would like to look at color chips for the base/clear eurethane systems. It is actually better to find a color you like on a car and remember what kind of car it is and tell them that and then look at the chips, they should be able to direct you with what system, reducers and hardeners to use. Make sure you have a very clean spray gun and that should eliminate the striping as long as you have the fan wide open and hold it about 12" away from what you are spraying you should be good.

01-21-2010, 11:06 AM	#14
freddmc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 218	Re: How do I get a "Super" Paint Job Master 66 In fact I do have a dryer on my system. When I read dryer I was thinking it was an additive in the paint. Thanks Fred
freddmc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 218

02-03-2010, 12:04 AM	#15
freddmc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 218	Re: How do I get a "Super" Paint Job Master66 said "Make sure you have a very clean spray gun and that should eliminate the striping as long as you have the fan wide open and hold it about 12" away from what you are spraying you should be good" Just a further question about the base coat. When I spray a one part paint the idea is to get a nice wet coat yet not get runs. I understand that in a base coat the same is not necessary, rather you only need to get enough paint for even coverage. Does this mean that you can spray with the gun further from the surface in order to HELP avoid "tiger strips". In other words you don't need heavy coats as the shine comes from the clear coats. Is it difficult to paint using metal flakes or are they treated like "heavier" metallic? Thanks Fred
freddmc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 218

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02-03-2010, 08:56 AM	#16
master66 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2009 Location: Marysville Wa Posts: 699	Re: How do I get a "Super" Paint Job Fred You are somewhat correct in that yes you don't have to apply such a wet coat of the basecoat as you would for say like an acrylic enamel. I personally wouldn't go really light though otherwise you will be there a while trying to achieve coverage, and keep the gun at the normal position. When applying the base you should go for 50 to 75% coverage over the last pass you made and alternate you're pattern, go side to side once then maybe up and down and so on, this should also help with striping.

02-03-2010, 09:00 AM	#17
master66 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2009 Location: Marysville Wa Posts: 699	Re: How do I get a "Super" Paint Job Sorry missed the last question, you will need to use a little bigger tip for some of the larger metal flakes as apposed to a normal tip for mettalics. Not sure what gun you are using but I use a 1.4 tip for mettalics and clear on my Sata.

03-01-2010, 10:08 PM	#18
freddmc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 218	Re: How do I get a "Super" Paint Job So now I'm getting ready to lay down the base coat. I'm using Nasons and have got it primed. After I apply the base coat do I sand it and if so what grit? And what grit do I use to color sand the top coats? Also how many coats of clear? Can you apply too many? Thanks Fred Mc.
freddmc Gone Wild Join Date: Dec 2009 Posts: 218

03-02-2010, 09:24 AM	#19
master66 Gone Wild Join Date: May 2009 Location: Marysville Wa Posts: 699	Re: How do I get a "Super" Paint Job Fred First remember to sand you're primer before applying the base coat, 400 grit or above works fine. After applying the base there is no need to sand it, just wipe it with a tack cloth and start the clear. Also I wouldn't let the basecoat sit to long before clearing, they say to clear within 24 hrs but as long as you do it within a couple days you will be fine. As far as clear goes three coats is just fine, you can do more but these systems reall aren't designed for any more than that, the more you add after that will lead to more yellowing eventually, but depending on what color you are doing it might not matter "like black for instance". The wet sanding after the clear for the buffing usually is done with 2000 grit.Good luck and shoot us some picks when you are done.

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