prep work for painting plastic bodies

[88 ez go]

Master thanks for all the help want to paint my 07 Ezgo
after left.JPG

[mndanielsncsu]

I just finished rattle can painting and clear coating my CC DS with duplicate-color. I plan to wet sand and buff the clear coat so I wanted to see which rubbing compound is the best on these bodies?

[mndanielsncsu]

Originally Posted by mndanielsncsu

I just finished rattle can painting and clear coating my CC DS with duplicate-color. I plan to wet sand and buff the clear coat so I wanted to see which rubbing compound is the best on these bodies?

Anybody? Just looking for recommendations on a rubbing compound to remove wet sanding scuffs on clear coat.

[gray horse]

I use 3M or Meguire's ultimate buffing compound. The Meguire's you can get at most auto parts stores. The 3M you may have to go to a auto paint store. It comes in different grades. I've had good luck with both.
What clear coat did you use? Foo foo can or spray gun? How many coats? This will help determine how much you can sand and buff the finish.

[mndanielsncsu]

Originally Posted by gray horse

I use 3M or Meguire's ultimate buffing compound. The Meguire's you can get at most auto parts stores. The 3M you may have to go to a auto paint store. It comes in different grades. I've had good luck with both.
What clear coat did you use? Foo foo can or spray gun? How many coats? This will help determine how much you can sand and buff the finish.

I used dupli-color rattle cans and adhesion promoter. I sprayed 4 coats of clear and was planning to wet sand with 2000 grit paper. I have a Hitachi rotary polisher that I planned to use for buffing.

[master66]

You probably should have posted this in the regular paint and body section as no one really answers the stickys, they are usually just for information. But yes 2,000 grit will work fine. I use 3m cutting compound with a white egg crate pad the go back with 3M machine glaze with a black egg crate pad, then you finish it off with 3m hand glaze after that. The Mcguires products are also good though.

[chiefallred]

I have a 95 g2 yamaha. Looked into painting it, read this and got to sanding. Took to paint shop and he said I ruined the body by "scuffing" it up. The whole thing now needed sanding with 400 and primed 5 to six times before paint. He stated never sand plastic, you only wash it off then wipe car down with three step promoter then paint.. Hope every see's this and doesn't mess up like I did.

[mndanielsncsu]

Originally Posted by chiefallred

I have a 95 g2 yamaha. Looked into painting it, read this and got to sanding. Took to paint shop and he said I ruined the body by "scuffing" it up. The whole thing now needed sanding with 400 and primed 5 to six times before paint. He stated never sand plastic, you only wash it off then wipe car down with three step promoter then paint.. Hope every see's this and doesn't mess up like I did.

I just painted the body on my 99 CC DS following the steps listed by Master66 and I had no issues. I scuffed mine with the red scotch brite pad and had no problems. The paint on mine isn't perfect, but it looks good overall.

[essness]

Originally Posted by chiefallred

I have a 95 g2 yamaha. Looked into painting it, read this and got to sanding. Took to paint shop and he said I ruined the body by "scuffing" it up. The whole thing now needed sanding with 400 and primed 5 to six times before paint. He stated never sand plastic, you only wash it off then wipe car down with three step promoter then paint.. Hope every see's this and doesn't mess up like I did.

We're 4 years deep into this sticky and numerous successful paint projects based on Masters instruction.
This leaves me to believe one of two possible scenarios here;
1) Wrong (too agressive) abrasive used to scuff.
2) Paint shop wanted more money.

I see no other reasonable explanation for what you expirienced.

[MIKESTREK]

Originally Posted by master66

I will try to give as much information as I can about doing prep work to plastic and metal bodies for paint. There seems to be quite a few questions about plastic and prep work so here goes, and remember these are just my personal preferences so you may use any product or method you wish.

Plastic bodies:
The very first thing is you can either remove the body parts to be worked or you can leave them on and mask everything, it,s personal preference but removing the parts usually works better. After that you need to scuff the whole body with either burgundy scotchbrite or sandpaper about 240 -400 grit dry paper, make sure you just remove the shine with the scuffing and not sand like crazy.
After scuffing now is the time to wipe it down with some wax and grease remover, wipe it on with one rag and wipe it off with another. Now you can do any bodywork that needs to be done, for filling scratches and gouges a polyester based finishing putty works the best for that, unlike the heavier "Bondo type" filler the finishing putty sand easier and doesn't tend to leave pinholes.I usually sand the putty with 240-320 grit dry paper then wax and grease again, remember wipe on wipe off.
Now is one of the most important parts "Adhesion promoter", this is a product that is sprayed on that softens up the plastic to accept primers and paints, if you do not do this step you risk all material you put on from here on out flaking or peeling off, especially if you are applying graphics later. Even if you are using Krylon Fusion I would still apply adhesion promoter. There are many different brands but I use either PPG or Dupont, make sure you read directions for applications and dry times.
Now you can pick a paint system and prime, if you are going to use automotive paint than I probably would not use bomb can primer, pick a primer that you're finished product material will accept. Prime accordingly, usually 2 to 3 good coats will do, then I usually sand with 240 grit if you are going to apply more primer later or 400-600 grit if this is you're finish sanding, and if you break through the primer in spots I would re prime and then spray a sealer on before applying color.If you have wet and dry sand paper you can wet sand if you like but I usually just use dry paper.
Just remember plenty of scuffing, adhesion promoter and plenty of wax and grease remover steps and you're job should turn out just fine.

Kevin

This was exactly what I was looking for. I'm just beginning the process of painting my 2001 Club Car DS. Thanks so much for sharing.