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Old 04-20-2019, 09:46 AM   #1
Imapled
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Default EZGO TXT 94-01.5 36v DCS - Motor / Controller Questions

Hi Everyone,

I have a EZGO TXT 04-01.5 36v DCS model golf cart and am considering changing the motor/controller to improve torque.

I used the guide at Carts Unlimited to determine I have a DCS cart. Also, the stickers on the side that say "Drive Control System" on the side of my cart also helped. But, you never know. I also attached a picture of my controller just to be sure.

Contemplated going 48v but here are my challenges:

1. 3 year old batteries in great shape.
2. 3 year old charger in mint condition.
3. Really not looking for speed but a torque increase for hills.
4. I am handy but, I don't want to take on too much.

Before I do anything silly I need some guidance as to what I should do.

Is staying 36v going to get me what I want (torque)?

Do I really need to change the motor or can my motor handle a new controller without frying?

Will changing the controller really give me a significant improvement in torque?

Will my wife yell at me for spending more money on the cart and for fixing something that isn't broken just to have the coolest cart in the park? :P (Answer: Yes)

What controller/motor should I get? (I am partial to Navitas because they are a Canadian company and their HQ is only 90km drive from my house but, I can be swayed to a better option if one exists.)

What size controller? 400amp? 500amp? 600amp? AAAAAAAAAAAAA! Totally confused.

As you can see I am struggling with what I should do... If I should do anything at all.

Also, can anyone tell me what controller (in the picture) I have? I can guess at it based on searches but, if someone here can tell me that would be great.

Current motor and controller work fine.

Cheers,
Impaled

PS: I have also read the materials on Carts Unlimited about coverting to 42v. It did indeed increase my understanding of what can be done to improve my cart. :) Something I would consider doing as well.
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Old 04-20-2019, 09:53 AM   #2
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Default Re: EZGO TXT 94-01.5 36v DCS - Motor / Controller Questions

So glad that you created this post, my situation is almost exactly the same with a slightly older cart that I got from my mother that she wasn't using anymore. I will be watching this post closely.
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Old 04-20-2019, 11:02 AM   #3
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Default Re: EZGO TXT 94-01.5 36v DCS - Motor / Controller Questions

The controller in the picture is a Curtis 1206SX so you have a 1994 TXT DCS.

The picture also shows the front panel of the controller is bowed away from the top panel, possibly indicating overheating has occurred. The DCS controller was a failed design, so going to an aftermarket controller in the near future is definitely a good idea.

All cart slow on inclines, some drive types more than others. Series drives slow the most and AC drive slow the least. Sepex drives, like the DCS, are someplace between the two extremes.

Tires taller that stock height (18") cause carts to slow more going uphill, as do weak batteries, undersized high current cables and high current cables in poor health.

You haven't mention your tire height, are they 18" tall or are they taller?

The cables seen in the picture are in poor health and if they are the original ones, some were 6Ga. All 10 high current cables need to be 4Ga or thicker. (Note: If 48V might in future, get cable set for a 6 x 8V battery pack, the cables connecting batteries together have to be longer for 8V batteries since they have both terminals on same side.)

The solenoid shown in picture has an 85A rating, needs to be 200A or greater. (More on this later)

The stock DCS motor has good torque, can handle a 500A controller and loves a 48V battery pack, so other than new brushes and bearing and cleaning, it'll probably suffice unless you have taller than stock height tires.

Nobody except you can answer the question if 36V is going to provide the performance you want, so the trick is to maximize the performance at 36V with new cables, controller and solenoid while creating a pathway to 48V at minimal expense when you are ready to buy new batteries. Do it right and the only expense is a new battery charger and cost difference between 6v and 8V batteries.

The controller, Navitas or Alltrax, work at 36V and 48V. Only a few setting need to be changed. (I prefer the Alltrax, but if Navitas is local to you, it might be a good choice.)

As mentioned earlier, get cable set for 48V pack, they will work with a 36V pack.

Get a MZJ400-48V solenoid. It will work at 36V and 48V later.

BTW: There is a market for used 36V battery chargers.
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Old 04-20-2019, 04:41 PM   #4
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Default Re: EZGO TXT 94-01.5 36v DCS - Motor / Controller Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
The controller in the picture is a Curtis 1206SX so you have a 1994 TXT DCS.
Thank you very much! Really appreciate the information. There was no marking on it so I couldn't really tell what controller it was.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
The picture also shows the front panel of the controller is bowed away from the top panel, possibly indicating overheating has occurred.
I went back to take a closer look and you indeed have a very good eye. It is indeed bowed from away from the top panel. On closer inspection the top of the unit there is indeed evidence of overheating. The white plug on the top closest to the second cable on the right (in the photo) shows evidence of heat as well. You are correct that overheating has occurred.

The cart is 25 years old so I am not surprised. As well, prior to my ownership it wasn't well taken care of.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
The DCS controller was a failed design, so going to an aftermarket controller in the near future is definitely a good idea.
Now I have the evidence to support my case for a new controller with my wife. :)

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
All cart slow on inclines, some drive types more than others. Series drives slow the most and AC drive slow the least. Sepex drives, like the DCS, are someplace between the two extremes.
I am not looking to fly up hills really. Just want to be able to get up them without burning the motor/controller up.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
Tires taller that stock height (18") cause carts to slow more going uphill, as do weak batteries, undersized high current cables and high current cables in poor health.

You haven't mentioned your tire height, are they 18" tall or are they taller?
I failed to read your guidance on this forum in other threads prior to putting on a RHOX LIFT-100 6" lift and put 14"x23" Duro off-road tires. The new wheels will slow it down going uphill for sure. Hopefully, it won't cause additional issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
The cables seen in the picture are in poor health and if they are the original ones, some were 6Ga.
Again, good eye! I didn't notice but, the wire on the far left does indeed have some issues. The cables to the controller are also original and have not been touched as far as I can tell.

The cables on the batteries are new but, the ones running from the two main posts to the controller are original. The ones on the batteries are red. I have included a photo of them. There is no writing on the wires so I don't know what gauge they are.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
All 10 high current cables need to be 4Ga or thicker. (Note: If 48V might in future, get cable set for a 6 x 8V battery pack, the cables connecting batteries together have to be longer for 8V batteries since they have both terminals on same side.)
The only new wires that I see are they 5 on the battery pack. I am assuming the other 5 that need to be replaced are the 2 coming off the batteries to the controller. The one that is has the stress on it that is running from the solenoid and the 2 big ones that run to the motor. Correct? (I am a noobie so bear with me. :) ) Ok, educated myself and watched which explains which wires need to change. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pb-6XQfqH3w

If all my wires suck and need to be changed what is the best kit to get to support 48v as suggested? Sourcing parts in Ontario, Canada is a pain. If there is a specific set you can point me to it will make it easier to find here. Part numbers generally match up but, not always for some reason.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
The solenoid shown in picture has an 85A rating, needs to be 200A or greater. (More on this later)

The stock DCS motor has good torque, can handle a 500A controller and loves a 48V battery pack, so other than new brushes and bearing and cleaning, it'll probably suffice unless you have taller than stock height tires.
I have taller than stock tires. :( I am more mechanically than electronically inclined so I did the lift and wheels without thinking about the overall impact.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
Nobody except you can answer the question if 36V is going to provide the performance you want, so the trick is to maximize the performance at 36V with new cables, controller and solenoid while creating a pathway to 48V at minimal expense when you are ready to buy new batteries. Do it right and the only expense is a new battery charger and cost difference between 6v and 8V batteries.
Ok. Your recommendation gives me an excellent path forward.

1. New cables.
2. New controller and solenoid.
3. See what happens. If happy with performance stop. If not happy go to step 4.
4. Put in 6x8v to get to 48v and new charger.

Now, this is if I don't have to change the motor. If I have to change the motor because of my tire upgrade which motor should I get. I am assuming one that can operate on 36v and 48v. But, which one?

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
The controller, Navitas or Alltrax, work at 36V and 48V. Only a few setting need to be changed. (I prefer the Alltrax, but if Navitas is local to you, it might be a good choice.)
If Alltrax which model specifically is the best to go with for this cart? If I can source one here in Canada I would consider it. All the research I have done points to the direction of Alltrax. Navitas is a good choice too but, I can't find hundreds of videos of the install of one.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
As mentioned earlier, get cable set for 48V pack, they will work with a 36V pack.
Will order once I figure out which ones to get and find a source in Canada. :(

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
Get a MZJ400-48V solenoid. It will work at 36V and 48V later.
Check.

Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnnieB View Post
BTW: There is a market for used 36V battery chargers.
Problem is one of the largest golf cart dealers is only 10-15 drive from my house and they just posted on Kijiji a photo of about 30+ 35v EZGO chargers. They are a dime a dozen in my zone (Greater Toronto Area) as a result. The good news is that if I need used parts they have a yard full of old EZGO cart parts. Cowels, tie rods, etc...

Again, thank you for all the help. I really appreciate it a lot. I am a complete and utter newbie when it comes to all this stuff.

Cheers,
Impaled
Attached Images
File Type: jpg batteries.jpg (140.8 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg MyCart.jpg (104.2 KB, 0 views)

Last edited by Imapled; 04-20-2019 at 04:57 PM.. Reason: Added picture of the cart.
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Old 04-20-2019, 05:02 PM   #5
orangeman6
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Default Re: EZGO TXT 94-01.5 36v DCS - Motor / Controller Questions

Johnnieb might be able to confirm, and I really have no business jumping in the middle of his help, but the battery cables look to me like they might be automotive cables, Or just low quality cables. The ones you want are made from welding cable. They’re high strand copper and when they bend the radius is smoother than what yours look like in the picture. You might have said that you’ plan was to replace them all. If not, just confirm they’re what is being recommend.
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Old 04-20-2019, 05:50 PM   #6
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Default Re: EZGO TXT 94-01.5 36v DCS - Motor / Controller Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by orangeman6 View Post
... the battery cables look to me like they might be automotive cables, or just low quality cables.
They may very well be automotive / low quality cables. They came with the cart. So I don't mind changing them to better ones.

Quote:
Originally Posted by orangeman6 View Post
The ones you want are made from welding cable. They’re high strand copper and when they bend the radius is smoother than what yours look like in the picture. You might have said that you’ plan was to replace them all. If not, just confirm they’re what is being recommend.
I don't mind replacing them all with the proper wires. Might as well do it once and do it right I say.

Is this the right set of wires for my cart?

cartguy.ca/collections/electric-parts-battery-parts-ezgo/products/1258

Yes, Canadian prices suck. :( But, it is a pain to order direct from the US with the recent changes in trade.

Cheers,
Tayken
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Old 04-20-2019, 05:56 PM   #7
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Default Re: EZGO TXT 94-01.5 36v DCS - Motor / Controller Questions

Those do look like automotive cables. Also, the batteries don't appear to have any hold downs.

With 23" tires, you lose 22% of the available torque where rubber meets road, so the cart will slow more on hills than it would have with stock (18") tires. Also, if the off-road tires are the low pressure type (<10PSI max inflation pressure), even more slowing will occur. Not counting the inflation pressure issue, if it exists, you'll need 28% greater than stock torque at the motor to climb the same hill at the same speed as the same cart with 18" tires.

The good news is that going to 48V will increase the torque at the motor by 33%, so a higher torque motor might not be needed if the uphill speeds are acceptable to you.

A new set (10 of them, you id them correctly) of cables, a higher amp throughput controller and solenoid will also help, however most of the increased torque from installing a higher amp controller is at the low end of the RPM spectrum. How many amps a motor draws is dictated by by the motor's RPM and the bulk of the gain from a higher amp controller occurs below the max RPM at which the motor is capable of drawing more amps than the stock (275A or 300A) controller can pass, but with the taller tires the motor turns slower for any given speed, so the net result isn't quite as bad.

The path forward is still the same, with one more step at the end. If cart doesn't do what you want it to do with stock motor at 48V, a new motor will be needed. Lots of choices out there, but I don't know what is available in Canada. Same with cables and other parts.
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Old 04-22-2019, 07:19 PM   #8
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Default Re: EZGO TXT 94-01.5 36v DCS - Motor / Controller Questions

Update: I purchased a Navitas TSX3.0 600amp controller, wire harness and new wires (only 4ga as that is what they had I know 2ga is the best).

First impressions of the TSX3.0 controller, wire harness, speed controller and other stuff.

Well designed and solid. I have to give the engineers some credit as the solid flat aluminum backing will smash right against the heatsink plate on my TXT DCS which will be great for heat exchange.

It is so flat that I am going to put 1mm of high-temp computer grade thermal paste between the controller's aluminum plate and the heatsink mounting plate to increase heat exchange. Probably won't do more than 1-3C improvement but, why not. The old controller had thermal paste on it.

I noticed that when I pealed off my Curtis 1206SX they had used a thermal compound (cheap one!). It appears to be one of those cheap stick on squares that are similar to what old CPU heatsinks for PCs used.

I had to scrape it all off and clean the mounting plate. In fact, the Curtis 1206SX was so stuck on that I had ot use a pallet knife to pop it off the mounting plate! That took a while. The old thermal compound was burnt on. Took me a lot longer than I wanted to clean the mounting plate. Also, there was way too much compound between the old Curtis 1206SX and the thermal plate for my liking. They didn't need to have 3-4mm of the stuff. 1mm application will do the same thing in my personal opinion.

Based on the warp in the controller that JohnnieB pointed out I suspect the controller must have gotten to some pretty amazing temperatures to do this as the old compound was wrecked.

The Wire Harness

It is well designed. Possibly over-designed but, that isn't a problem in my books. The plug that goes into the TSX3.0 controller is a really nice design. You can't screw it up when plugging it in. It only goes in one way. It also has an amazing lock mechanism to keep it in place. It is also easy to unlock it and take it off. Fits snug and no wiggle so you can't accidentally bend a pin when inserting it.

The whole thing is sealed incredibly well for the weather. Nothing on the board is exposed from what I can tell. With electronics like this having them sealed up is great for moisture and other gunk it is good design. Not easy to repair a printed circuit board (PCB) these days.

The Speed Controller

It is "meh". Connector again is top-notch and it is sealed up really well. The problem with the design is that it is a bit clunky in size. There really won't be a great place to mount it on the dash of my TXT. The wire comes out of the bottom of the unit instead of the back. It has a big thick 3M velcro attached on the back. Not the best way to mount anything.

There are two holes on the back that have brass fittings so I guess I could bolt it on from the back. But, that would require me to find a place on my dash that it won't look silly in and figure out a way to put two bolts through the dash so I can screw it on. Ultimately, I would have to remove my dash to do it right. Which I am not about to do.

The unit is also thick and the wire coming out of the bottom isn't very flexible by design. So If you wanted to hide the wire good luck. You will need to drill a hole about 2" away from the unit as there is a jacket to prevent from being bent and pulled out of the unit. Which, is good design but, I would have preferred if the wire came out of the back of the unit and for it to have a mounting plate it could clip into. Say like how a furnace controller works.

The cord is nice and long if you want to mount it on the dash. The problem is the molex connector on the end is quite large. So you have to drill a big hole and you will see the hole because it is all tightly connected. Had the wire come out of the back and they used a mounting plate system you wouldn't see the hole. (Just like you don't see the hole on a Nest Thermostat!)

For my installation, I am probably going to mount it under the seat somewhere as a result. It wasn't a big selling option for me.

It does have a key so you can lock the speed controll and lock out little fingers. I have 3 war boys at home and they like to all turn knobs. So this is a great feature... If I had a place to mount it on my dash that wouldn't look awful. :(

General Observations

I am going to have to mount the TSX3.0 higher on the mounting plate to make room for the solenoid. It is going to be a bit of a tight fit from my dry test of it all. I am going to put 3" posts under the arms of the original solenoid mounting plate. Otherwise, it will sit right on the B+, B-, A1, A2, F1 and F2 cords.

As well, I need to figure out a way to mount my tow/run switch on the mounting plate. Navitas sells an optional TXT mounting kit but, I will probably craft something myself. I am sure Canadian Tire (not just tires!) or Princess Auto has something that will do the same.

Navitas Techs and Team

Impressed. I contacted them on Facebook Messenger prior to the install with a bunch of questions and they answered them all. Even on Easter Sunday! Whoever is watching their social media is right on top of things. They even put me in direct contact with their tech. Who I called twice today to ask questions as the install guide outlines the install of a 1206MX only and not the 1206SX. It is almost identical but, there a few slight differences. Differences that I am sure the experts on this forum wouldn't have to ask.

But, the tech was pleasant, helpful and patient. Answered both my calls on the second ring too.

What I completed today:

1. Removal of the old Curtis 1206SX controller.

2. Cleaning off all the old thermal compound on the mounting plate.

3. Rewiring batteries with new 4ga cable and the positive and negative cables from the battery pack to the solenoid and what will attach to the controller.

4. Labelling of all wires so I don't screw them up.

What I need to do next:

1. Measure the cables coming from the motor to the controller so I can get the right lengths.

If someone knows what length they should be I would be greatful for the information. The less I have to go under my cart the better.

2. Measure the wire going from the solenoid that will go to the controller so I can get the right one.

3. Mount the controller and connect the wires and wire harness.

4. Mount the solenoid on the mounting plate.

5. Cross fingers and hope cart works!

6. Test out the software w/ screenshots.

I included some pictures of the unboxing, old controller removal, gunk covered mounting plate, clean mounting plate and thermal paste I am going to use. (Probably don't need 3 tubes.)

Cheers,
Impaled
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Unboxing.jpg (271.2 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg DisassemblyOfCurtis1206SX.jpg (49.8 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg MountingPlateWithCrappyThermalPasteStuckOn.jpg (87.0 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg ThermalPaste.jpg (204.1 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg CleanedMountingPlate.jpg (69.5 KB, 0 views)

Last edited by Imapled; 04-22-2019 at 07:25 PM.. Reason: Forgot to include picture of cleaned mounting plate.
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Old 04-22-2019, 07:48 PM   #9
orangeman6
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Default Re: EZGO TXT 94-01.5 36v DCS - Motor / Controller Questions

If you just order a set of cables they should come in the lengths you need. Or, are you building them yourself?

Can you disassemble that speed control, then mount just the dials, or maybe the whole plate, into the dash? I’ve never seen the Navitas version in person. I have the one for the Alltrax, and it was kinda bulky too. I took it all apart and mounted it without the casing. It was very simple, but mine is a series cart so there’s only one dial. Just a thought.

Good luck with your install.
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Old 04-22-2019, 08:10 PM   #10
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Default Re: EZGO TXT 94-01.5 36v DCS - Motor / Controller Questions

Quote:
Originally Posted by orangeman6 View Post
If you just order a set of cables they should come in the lengths you need. Or, are you building them yourself?
The local dealer is custom making them for me really cheap. I was going to make my own but, he crimps them better and gave me a deal I couldn't refuse.

Quote:
Originally Posted by orangeman6 View Post
Can you disassemble that speed control, then mount just the dials, or maybe the whole plate, into the dash?
I will investigate how sealed of a unit it is and report back. It pretty much is a bigger version of the Alltrax one as it has 3 knobs and a key on it. I will measure the thing and take some pictures of it in possible spots later for everyone.

Quote:
Originally Posted by orangeman6 View Post
I took it all apart and mounted it without the casing. It was very simple, but mine is a series cart so there’s only one dial. Just a thought.
Indeed. I will check out the speed controller to see how it is put together. This may be a good option to resolve my issues.

Quote:
Originally Posted by orangeman6 View Post
Good luck with your install.
Thank you! First time doing anything like this. Total noobie. So I need all the luck I can get.

Cheers,
Impaled
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