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Old 08-23-2014, 10:06 PM   #1
wannabass
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Default Jakes long travel caster tips

Does anyone have any tips for camber adjustment for Jakes long travel kit? Just got done with installation of one on a 2008 yamaha drive and cant find too much on it. Toe is about 1/4 and camber is about the same but lots of adjustment on this kit.
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Old 08-24-2014, 04:13 PM   #2
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I did the camber adjustment just using the bottom heim only on both sides so the framing sq I used for the outside of the wheels would be straight up. It was a pain for sure, pulling the bolt up and turning the heim. My goal was tires straight up. The rest of the heims were the way the kit came. Tires are wearing well. The toe in is adjusted 1/8". Make sure you rotate tire one revolution at least with weight on to check your adjustment. Sportcoup set me on the right path for these adjustments.
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:02 PM   #3
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Default Re: Jakes long travel caster tips

Messing with it today and it seems with 1/2" of camber it handles pretty well. Seems to be changing a bit after a pretty bumpy first long ride today. Also seems as the tire travels up it negates the caster to positive mid way. Probably over analyzing but shooting for best stability for the family to use.
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Old 08-24-2014, 09:09 PM   #4
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It really makes a difference what kind of tires you. I first had 2 ply duros and they had a lotta of roll, so I had them in 1/2 ". My new tires are 4 ply stiffer and better ride at 21lbs. So the camber is straight up, as best as could be adjusted.
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Old 08-25-2014, 04:11 AM   #5
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Default Re: Jakes long travel caster tips

Both the Jakes LT kits I have installed came with camber pretty much dead on out of the box. I choose the 6" soft mounting hole though which is "default" for the kit. I would guess that selecting more or less lift might require camber adjustments.

Caster doesn't appear to be adjustable in this kit.



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Old 08-25-2014, 01:32 PM   #6
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Default Re: Jakes long travel caster tips

Yes, I would think tires are a big factor. Went with 22-10-10 swamp fox, 4 ply low pressure tires and 99% dirt use age. Am at about 5/8" negative camber on a flat garage floor but they don't seem to stay the same...time will tell but it drives pretty well.
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Old 08-25-2014, 02:41 PM   #7
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Default Re: Jakes long travel caster tips

Camber must be checked with weight on cart. If cart was jacked and then lowered be sure to roll cart at least one tire revelation to get an accurate reading.
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Old 08-25-2014, 07:58 PM   #8
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Default Re: Jakes long travel caster tips

Perfect, thank sportcoupe, exactly what I needed to know.
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Old 10-09-2021, 10:33 PM   #9
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Default Re: Jakes long travel caster tips

Old thread but similar question…. Long story but I’ll skip to the end…

All the hiem joints were removed for powder coating the control arms…

All the factory suspension geometry that was set is now gone. What’s the best way to get it back close (a default of sorts) - is way off now.

I’m confident I could spend 4 hours taking it apart measuring and adjusting hiem joints but I thought before I did that tomorrow I’d ask the experts?

Are their measurements from some fixed point to each of the 4 inner hiem joints that get them very close to correct?

Thanks guys in advance… my other option is call Jake’s technical support on Monday.

M.
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Old 10-09-2021, 11:47 PM   #10
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Default Re: Jakes long travel caster tips

Not sure what you mean by "factory geometry is off", looks like it's not put together yet. When the parts arrived they were disassembled, correct? Was there an issue with the thickness of the powdercoat?

You have to mount the spindles and wheels to get the camber and toe set. Caster will be fixed. It's usually best to level and plumb the frame, then work from there. Or you can install the rear wheels and set them on the ground then work the front end. Typically you don't ever get a true sense of where the front suspension is going to be until you put it on the ground with weight on it, it will settle. Then adjust from there.

One thing you could do is set all the heim joints up the same, meaning, the same number of threads showing. Set them up in the middle of the adjustment, then mount everything up, see what it looks like, then re adjust.
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