FnR switch high pitch noise

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by fishb8

BTW: the humming is happening when the key switch is off and on.

The red wire to MS-2 and the red jumper wire from MS-2 to MS-4 have battery pack voltage on them whether the keyswitch is on or off.

Since the noise goes away when the orange wire is disconnected, I suspect you are somehow getting some positive voltage on the orange wire when there shouldn't be any.
The other end attaches to Pin-4 on the AllTrax controller.

Measure the voltage on the orange wire at MS-4 and then disconnect the other end from Pin-4 on controller.
If the voltage goes away, it is coming from the controller and that is bad news.
If it remains, the problem is in the wiring harness.

[fishb8]

There is 1.7v on the orange wire at MS-4. When I disconnect the orange wire from the controller the voltage goes away.

I don't like the way this is going

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by fishb8

There is 1.7v on the orange wire at MS-4. When I disconnect the orange wire from the controller the voltage goes away.

I don't like the way this is going

Hopefully, it is a phantom current path between the pins and terminals on top of the controller.
The acid laden air under the seat can make dust/dirt layers conductive.

Disconnect the battery pack and thoroughly clean the top of the controller.

After the controller top is clean and dry, reconnect the battery and check for voltage on the orange wire again.

If it is still there, the controller may be sick, but only one minor aspect and it might run the cart for several more years.

If the voltage is coming from within the controller, you've got a couple options to get rid of the high-pitched noise.
1. Disconnect the orange wire. The drawback to that is the cart will run at full speed in reverse, which may or may not be an issue for you and your family.
2. Put a steering diode in the orange wire to prevent voltage from the controller back-feeding to the beeper. I recommend getting a male and a female push on connectors and building an extension for the orange wire with a diode in it. The band on the diode should face the controller.

[fishb8]

Thanks Johnnie. I will give it a good cleaning when I get home. Disconnecting the orange wire does not matter to me. But with or without it....The buggy still does not run at all.
The controller is only 1.5 years old.

[fishb8]

I forgot to do the motor test you suggested, will do tonight. But I suspect that it will be fine. My luck is it will be the more expensive issue

[fishb8]

**** us southern boys don't like cold weather.

I did the motor test you posted on page 1. I got NO volts with any combination of A1 and S1 or S2.

I also tested the volts on the orange wire again. Still have volts.
So I tested the black wire or the buzzer. No volts on the wire, but I do have volts on the spade connector.
I am wondering is it possible that the microswitch(MS-4) is bad and causing voltage to bleed?

I'm at a loss because the test indicate bad motor and a bad controller. And then there is this hum.
One more thing, the hum noise gets higher/louder when the gas is pushed.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by fishb8

I did the motor test you posted on page 1. I got NO volts with any combination of A1 and S1 or S2.

No voltage is being applied to motor, indicating a bad connection or a bad controller.
Connect voltmeter Negative test lead to M- terminal on controller.
Connect voltmeter Positive test lead to B+ terminal on controller.
Voltage should start at about Zero when solenoid clicks and climb to near pack voltage as pedal is pushed to floor.
If it does, there is a bad connection in the high current loop.
If it doesn't, the controller is bad, or the ITS isn't telling the controller to pass amps to motor.
Let us know what you find.

Originally Posted by fishb8

I also tested the volts on the orange wire again. Still have volts.
So I tested the black wire or the buzzer. No volts on the wire, but I do have volts on the spade connector.
I am wondering is it possible that the microswitch(MS-4) is bad and causing voltage to bleed?

If the spade connector mentioned is on the beeper, the voltage you are reading is what is coming into the other side of the beeper via the red wire, which connects to the same terminal on MS-4 as the orange wire connects to.
The black wire is tied to B- and so is your voltmeter's negative test lead, so you will not read any voltage on it.

What you are seeing is as expected under the circumstances.

We've already proved MS-4 is not the problem. Its only association with the hum problem is the fact two wires that are involved, just happen too be attached on one of its terminals. As long as those two wires stay tied together electrically, MS-4 can be completely removed from the cart and the hum problem will still exist.

Originally Posted by fishb8

I'm at a loss because the test indicate bad motor and a bad controller. And then there is this hum.
One more thing, the hum noise gets higher/louder when the gas is pushed.

A lot of money is wasted jumping to hasty conclusions.

At this point in time, neither the motor nor the controller has been proven to be good or bad. They are on the suspect list, but innocent until proven guilty.

However, we have proven the controller is the source of the Hum problem and that cleaning the top didn't solve the problem, so the source of voltage is internal to the controller. The fact the hum gets louder/higher when pedal is pushed verifies the controller has internal issues.

[fishb8]

I don't jump to conclusions...Thats why I'm here
Just want to make sure I am giving out all the info.

I tested between M- and B+. it has 22.5 volts all the time. It does not matter is the key is on or off. Or whether the gas is pushed or not.

What does that rule out? In your post you said it means the controller is sick or the ITS is not telling the right info.

Not jumping to conclusions, just thinking out loud(or typing out loud)
But it seems to point to the controller. Hell even the LED will not come on.

Anything else to do besides going the ITS troubleshooting?

Thanks again for the help

[fishb8]

I have been through scottyb's directions before and always seem to get confused by the 1st part:

ITS - INDUCTIVE THROTTLE SENSOR

With the key switch ON - Forward direction selected - Push the Accelerator pedal just enough to activate the solenoid.
Install a "jumper wire" between the batteries BL+ post and the solenoid post with red wires attached.

Can anyone elaborate on this for me. what is the 1st sentence for? and what is BL+? I assume that it is the battery pack + terminal

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by fishb8

I don't jump to conclusions...Thats why I'm here
Just want to make sure I am giving out all the info.

I tested between M- and B+. it has 22.5 volts all the time. It does not matter is the key is on or off. Or whether the gas is pushed or not.

What does that rule out? In your post you said it means the controller is sick or the ITS is not telling the right info.

Not jumping to conclusions, just thinking out loud(or typing out loud)
But it seems to point to the controller. Hell even the LED will not come on.

Anything else to do besides going the ITS troubleshooting?


Thanks again for the help

If there is a Pre-Charge resistor across the solenoid terminals, that may account for measuring voltage between the M- and B+ terminals on the controller at all times. However, staying at 22.5V with pedal up and pedal down indicates the controller has had an internal melt down.

The LED not coming on at all is also a bad sign.
With the negative test lead attached to the B- on controller, measure the voltage at Pin-1 (with red wire still attached).
With key on, F or R selected and pedal down, it should read pack voltage.
If it does, the LED ought to be on.
If it doesn't, the controller is sick.

I'd call Alltrax at this point. They may have some more checks that can be performed, but I think the controller is bad.