48v G19e. Runs then stops.

[Vinny73]

I have bought new batteries, did a cable upgrade. I noticed about a year ago, every once in a while when I press on the gas the cart runs fine then all of a sudden it cuts out. I then take my foot off the gas pedal and press it again and it starts to go again. Lately, it has been doing it more often. Like, every 15 seconds or so. Does this sound like an electrical part going out? I noticed that I can replicate the problem just about every time with full throttle. When it's about 1/4-3/4 throttle it doesn't happen as often. Is there some sort of contacts in the black box from the accelerator pedal linkage that need to be cleaned or is this sounding like a temperamental controller issue? If there are any other questions I can answer, please, ask away. This is my wives cart and I don't like her cart to have issues. If it were mine, well, it was and I bought a gas one so...

[cgtech]

Is it a 36v G16e (f&r lever on body by drivers right knee), or is it a 48v G19e (f&r switch on dash below cupholders), or is it a modified 48v G16e? If it is a modified G16e, what controller, what f&r, what solenoid?

[Vinny73]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Is it a 36v G16e (f&r lever on body by drivers right knee), or is it a 48v G19e (f&r switch on dash below cupholders), or is it a modified 48v G16e? If it is a modified G16e, what controller, what f&r, what solenoid?

As title states. 48v g16e. F&r on dash. All parts are stock

[cgtech]

Nah, ignore the sticker on the body, listen to the serial number (on a aluminum tag). The G16e never had f&r on dash & never had 48v as delivered by yamaha. So we still need to find out what it is. G19e was a 48v "Sepex" system with f&r on dash (and 2 large & 2 small wires going to motor terminals & always had a tach sensor on end of motor). G16e was a 36v "Series" system with a mechanical f&r switch with lever (always had 4 large wires to motor, never had a tach sensor on motor). 48v & G16e & f&r switch on dash dont fit together as "all stock" due to a configuration conflict never offered by yamaha. Keep in mind the body is easily changed, so the sticker by the seat bottom may not reflect what you really have.

[Vinny73]

Okay, I will research what I did a couple years ago and feel like a fool for letting age get the best of my memory. I will give you the answers you seek so you may help me. Thank you for the correcting info as it sounds....I'm wrong.

[rib33024]

This thread you started a while back, Is this the same cart?


http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...rums-suck.html

[jorgedell]

Hello,

I have a 96 yamaha G16E 36 volt. I have been chasing a electrical problem for a while now.

I first started out with a stock golf cart, I use it on the farm a lot, driving around the fence AT LOW SPEED . I stop and go a lot. I notice, when I stop and try to go again, I push the pedal down and the cart doesn't move. Its dead, no sound from the motor or electrical or anything. I give it about 30-45 seconds and push the pedal back down to take off and it takes off. Runs fine when it goes. It doesn't do this all the time just about every other time I stop. Sometimes I turn the key on and Press the pedal and nothing. When I put it in reverse, and the buzzer goes off load, I press the pedal down the cart doesn't move but the load buzzing noice from the reverse horn get lower in sound, and you can barely hear the reverse buzzer. Not sure what this is, can anyone help.

This is what I have changed since the problem BAT,SELENOID ,CONTROLER AND CABLES. PLASE HELP TO RESOLVE

[Vinny73]

Originally Posted by rib33024

This thread you started a while back, Is this the same cart?


http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...rums-suck.html

Yup!!! I knew it! Age is catching up to me! It is a G19e. F&R switch is on dash below cup holders. Batteries were all replaced at same time.

[cgtech]

Vinny, the problem you are describing in a sepex cart is usually caused by a fussy "throttle position sensor". The plug is under the cart, 3 wires, just behind the access panel on the floor (below the rubber mat). It is a 0-5000 ohm throttle. There are 3 wires in the plug, with your ohm meter, try all possible combinations, here is what you should find. One combination will give 5k ohm, regardless of throttle position. Another combination will give roughly 150 ohm at rest, smoothly rising to roughly 4800 ohm at full throttle. Another combination will give roughly 4800 ohm at rest, and smoothly fall to roughly 150 ohm at full throttle. Any "jumpiness", or readings of zero or above 5000 ohm are suspect of failed throttle sensor (or possible bad adjustment of throttle rod from pedal, an unlikely situation if it has not been adjusted since it was working fine). If this does not get you anywhere, post findings and we will try other stuff. This does not directly apply to Jorgedell, as his G16e uses a 0-1000 ohm throttle.

[Vinny73]

Originally Posted by cgtech

Vinny, the problem you are describing in a sepex cart is usually caused by a fussy "throttle position sensor". The plug is under the cart, 3 wires, just behind the access panel on the floor (below the rubber mat). It is a 0-5000 ohm throttle. There are 3 wires in the plug, with your ohm meter, try all possible combinations, here is what you should find. One combination will give 5k ohm, regardless of throttle position. Another combination will give roughly 150 ohm at rest, smoothly rising to roughly 4800 ohm at full throttle. Another combination will give roughly 4800 ohm at rest, and smoothly fall to roughly 150 ohm at full throttle. Any "jumpiness", or readings of zero or above 5000 ohm are suspect of failed throttle sensor (or possible bad adjustment of throttle rod from pedal, an unlikely situation if it has not been adjusted since it was working fine). If this does not get you anywhere, post findings and we will try other stuff. This does not directly apply to Jorgedell, as his G16e uses a 0-1000 ohm throttle.

Thank you CG! I was thinking this may be the faulty individual. I was really hoping this was the problem and not something really expensive. Can I get readings in run mode but the switch in off? Or should I try a different combo? Tow/ key on?