86 John Deere E-Z-Go w/244CC Robin 2pg

[Masterscatter]

First, hello and thanks for your assistance to a noob! :P
I have ripped the carb out , cleaned and verified every jet, orifice and float all operational. but! im getting intermitten backfires. my first thought was an incorectly operating carb, so Im going to replace this week with a new (25$ Amazon) unit and run that. im starting to see posts here with mention of the seals on crankshaft.. is it possible that they are worn and causing backfires?
If this is the case, where can i get the seals and direction to remove and replace these.. I am mechanically inclined and have no issue ripping out the engine if required.

Does crankshaft seals cause backfires?

Other quick question, cant he clutchpacks be lubricated so they move more easily? is there a grease fitting that i need to look for so they arent bound up.
Im probably the 6th or 7th owner and this cart was full of mud.. im going to degrease the engine bay and pressure wash it all.. just want to know what parts i should pay particular interest in when lubricating again.

Thanks
Bill

[cart around]

Post 22 has the manuals. https://buggiesgonewild.com/showthre...=105501&page=3

Does it backfire when you let off the gas, coast a little, and then step on the pedal again?
If so, it's the throttle cable not being rigged properly. You will need the spring from an ink pen.

The driven clutch can be lubricated around the spindle with graphite, Moly-Lube, or Dry-Slide.

I believe the cover can come off of the drive clutch, cleaned and lubed the same way, but I have never done it.

[Masterscatter]

Originally Posted by cart around

Post 22 has the manuals.
Does it backfire when you let off the gas, coast a little, and then step on the pedal again?
If so, it's the throttle cable not being rigged properly. You will need the spring from an ink pen.

The driven clutch can be lubricated around the spindle with graphite, Moly-Lube, or Dry-Slide.

I believe the cover can come off of the drive clutch, cleaned and lubed the same way, but I have never done it.

So Follow up, the carb was in pretty bad shape when i got the cart, i ruipped all the jets, main needle and other orfices and cleared. had a lot of junk in it, put it back together, it was running but popped a lot. also think there is water in the system which is now almost out of gas...
I've orderd a new carb and choke cable. will be installing this weekend.
i'm looking for a portable welder now to put in a battery tray and thin metal floor as the original floor under drivers side is rusting..

But thanks for the lubrication info.. want to maintance it as the previous owners probably have not.

Thanks

[cart around]

Unless the throttle shaft is wobbling, and loose, you are much better off keeping the original carburetor.

[Masterscatter]

Originally Posted by cart around

Post 22 has the manuals.

Does it backfire when you let off the gas, coast a little, and then step on the pedal again?
If so, it's the throttle cable not being rigged properly. You will need the spring from an ink pen.

The driven clutch can be lubricated around the spindle with graphite, Moly-Lube, or Dry-Slide.

I believe the cover can come off of the drive clutch, cleaned and lubed the same way, but I have never done it.

Originally Posted by cart around

Unless the throttle shaft is wobbling, and loose, you are much better off keeping the original carburetor.

Previous owner was not mechanically inclined, he lost the idle needle and replaced with a bolt.
It also is an older unit with a cable for accelerator not shaft connected.
if i get bad perfomace I will try to properly rebuild the original.
Any option to get a little better performace from the small 244CC engine?

Thanks

[cart around]

The throttle shaft that I am talking about is in the carburetor. It's the vertical shaft that the cable is connected to. It's part of the throttle plate assembly. Read the description of the carburetor in the manual. There is no idle screw.