2013 EZGO RXV No Go

[bbbdale]

I’m so close I can feel it. I just need a little help.

49 volts battery pack(i know its low. Plan is to replace batteries once I know it runs.

49 volts going to solenoid.
Turn key on, solenoid clicks and I have 49 volts on each large post.

Here’s the problem. Depress pedal and nothing happens.

I had a bad electric brake so I replaced it.
After replacing brake, Cart did move last week when I pressed the pedal but pedal was sticking and would not pull back on its own, so I disconnected sensors and got the pedal spring lubricated and now with everything plugged up it won’t move.

When I press the pedal I get nothing.

I’m trying to google a video on testing the pedal sensor, but nothing seems to address it or how to test to see if its bad.




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[bbbdale]

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[usgicollector]

Hope this can help you out.

[bbbdale]

Thanks I’m going to look this over thoroughly.

I was able to get the cart running again. I pressed the throttle pedal down several times and off we went. Drove about 1/2 mile and got the dreaded brake lockup.

Could not get the electric brake to disengage so I pulled out the 10mm socket and took off the brake. Rolled it back into the garage and checked the electric brake voltage. Only 9-10v. I unplugged the pin connector to the controller and plugged it back in. The brake disengaged for a moment, then locked up again. Checked the voltage and back to 9-10v.

At this point I don’t know if its the PIN connector or the controller.

Can I bypass the controller and run the electric brake off my battery pack?


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[basshawk84]

Did you install an OEM or aftermarket brake?

[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by bbbdale

Rolled it back into the garage and checked the electric brake voltage. Only 9-10v.

When you are finding the 9 or 10 volts , are you probing the white side pin on the motor brake plug , and do you have the negative lead of your meter on battery pack negative ? That voltage doesn't come from the controller or the controller 32 pin plug. It comes from battery pack positive through the key switch and the brake switch. If you only have 10 volts there with cart switched on then you have a problem in the circuit between the key switch and the brake plug. That same problem is probably what caused the brake lock up.

[bbbdale]

Originally Posted by sthreatt

When you are finding the 9 or 10 volts , are you probing the white side pin on the motor brake plug , and do you have the negative lead of your meter on battery pack negative ? That voltage doesn't come from the controller or the controller 32 pin plug. It comes from battery pack positive through the key switch and the brake switch. If you only have 10 volts there with cart switched on then you have a problem in the circuit between the key switch and the brake plug. That same problem is probably what caused the brake lock up.

When testing the brake plug, i was probing both the black wire and white wire. I’ll put the black probe on the negative pack to confirm its not a bad ground.

I quickly followed the white wire from the brake and could have sworn it took me to the 35 pin connector at the controller. So I plugged and unplugged that 35 pin connector a few times and got 49v again at the brake switch, only to lose it a few moments later having it drop back to 9-10v. I’ll do a better job tracking it tonight and see where it leads.

The new brake was given to me when I bought the cart. Not sure who made it but it looks like the Reliance brake pictures. Not. 10lol or a HD brake. I bench tested it with the battery pack and it always opens and stays open.


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[sthreatt]

Originally Posted by bbbdale

When testing the brake plug, i was probing both the black wire and white wire. I’ll put the black probe on the negative pack to confirm its not a bad ground.

I quickly followed the white wire from the brake and could have sworn it took me to the 35 pin connector at the controller. So I plugged and unplugged that 35 pin connector a few times and got 49v again at the brake switch, only to lose it a few moments later having it drop back to 9-10v. I’ll do a better job tracking it tonight and see where it leads.

The new brake was given to me when I bought the cart. Not sure who made it but it looks like the Reliance brake pictures. Not. 10lol or a HD brake. I bench tested it with the battery pack and it always opens and stays open.


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The motor brake is powered through the keys witch and brake switch and is activated ( opened, released ) by the controller providing ground to complete the circuit from pin 5 of the 32 pin connector. When you switch the cart on it goes through the self test process and if everything is found good on that test, it unlocks the brake and enables the controller. If it finds a problem on any part of the self test, it locks the brake and disables the controller.

[bbbdale]

So when I left the cart last night the brake connector plug had 45 volts. This morning I turned it back on and still have 45 v at the plug. I wiggled some wires behind the dash and pretty sure I heard some clicks. Checked brake plug again and still have 45 v. In RUN cart goes through its TEST of momentary F and R. Last night when I was getting 9-10v in TOW, when I switched to RUN it would not go through the test.

Also, One thing I did not mention last night. Battery indicator on dash was working fine. Now after my brake lockup, it barely blimps when I turn on the key. Battery bank still reads 49v on the meter.

So the hunt continues. My plan is to check each harness connector and make sure it has a good contact.

At this point I have to believe its just a bad connection somewhere. If the brake plug is controlled by the Key switch, and the pre test is initiated by the Key switch, then maybe I have a bad Key switch.



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[sthreatt]

Since you mention that the state of charge meter is not working, and the cart sometimes fails to run the self test, then I would suspect the problem to be in the sonic weld in the harness. The red wire from the key switch provides power to that connection which powers 5 different items. One of those 5 is main power to the controller, another is power to the state of charge meter, another is the motor brake. If that connection fails ( and it often does ) it can cause exactly what you are looking at. That sonic weld connection is in the main harness down in the battery compartment in front of the batteries.