E-Z-Go to 3/4 scale 1933 Ford Roadster

[Hovernut]

I'm in the planning stages of a proposed 3/4 scale (approx.) 1933 Ford roadster using a 48 volt E-Z-Go frame and drive train. I will make the body from wood that I will then fiberglass and paint. At the moment I'm having a hard time finding a suitable cart in my area. Most of the carts have been lifted, run oversize knobby tires, etc. I'm hoping to find one that is "stock" so to speak because I am going to have it sit low to the ground just like a hot rod roadster. I'm thinking of using 14" wheels for the rear and 12" for the front to give it that California rake. The wheelbase will be stretched to about 94" and the track to about 42". The only reason I'm leaning towards a 48 volt cart is that I can use 4 - 12 volt batteries and that will allow me to put the 2 bucket seats I want to use on the lowered floor and closer to the rear axle. My question is: If I'm unable to find a suitable 36 volt cart could I use 3 - 12 volt batteries in it? I know that this wouldn't be ideal, it's just a thought. Another thought I had was to use the 6 - 6 volt batteries but only use 4 in the back and put the other 2 up front since I will have room up there when I stretch the frame in front of the pedals. My only concern then would be the cable length. I'm looking for input. Thanks Ed.

[Sir Nuke]

Hi Ed! sounds like a GERAT project!! in fact, there is at least one person on the site that has done this....and another one that has a coupe!

Take a look at Rodgers Build! Rogers 33 Roadster Build

and here is Andy's Coupe

NOW for your questions.
1. First thing....the batteries....you REALLY don't want to use 4-12v golf cart batteries. whether you use 4-12's OR 6-8's they have the same "foot print" (take the same amount of space. AND the reason why is that the 6-8's will have more AMP-HOURs, thus you car will have a longer run time.

2. Second...truly you shouldn't be concerned with whether you are looking at 36v or 48v carts, as you SURELY be replacing the drive system (controller/solenoid/f&r/cables, etc....) with upgraded stuff to have a quicker/faster cart when you are done, not a slow poke stock golf cart. For you project, your main concern should be the condition of the frame, as you will certainly be replacing nearly EVERYTHING else.

3. as far as buying one that is already lifted and has big tires on it already....if you were to find one at a good price...you could always take those things off (they are only bolt on additions to the cart) and sell them.

4. CABLES....piece of cake....if you want there are vendors here that can custom make any cables you want/need....OR make them yourself using high quality welding cables.

[Andy4639]

I didn't have the batteries up front but did have the controller and had to have close to 8' of cables for it. I didn't like it so I moved everything to the back of the cart. Batteries and all. If your going to extend it it should be fine. Mine is regular wheel base and I sit on the road almost.

This winter I plan on building my other cart. It's going to be a little more driver friendly though with some really nice upgrades. If I can find the time to do it.

[Hovernut]

That's a beautiful cart. I can see that you spent a lot of time on it.

[Hovernut]

Thanks for the input. Like I said, I'm still in the planning stage so anything goes.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Hovernut

That's a beautiful cart. I can see that you spent a lot of time on it.

Thanks but I didn't build it. I bought it. But I have done all the new electrical work to it. And as we are speaking it's in the paint shop getting redone because of a drunk hitting it.
I have a newer Ezgo roller frame I'm going to build a twin to it but it will no top and will sit much better.

[Hovernut]

I was looking back through the forum for "Roger's 33 roadster build" the other day and something caught my eye. Scottyb posted that a 36 volt motor could be run on 48 volts. I couldn't find any other reference to that in that forum. Can someone please explain how to do that or tell me where I can find the information?

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Hovernut

I was looking back through the forum for "Roger's 33 roadster build" the other day and something caught my eye. Scottyb posted that a 36 volt motor could be run on 48 volts. I couldn't find any other reference to that in that forum. Can someone please explain how to do that or tell me where I can find the information?

A 36 volt motor will run fine on 48 volts. It will torque up a bit better and top end will be better. The cable hookup is the same. More volts = less amps to push it faster.
Just like a 12 volt bulb in your car. It will burn brighter on 14 volts which is what the alternator puts out.

[Hovernut]

Thanks for the info. Does any thing else need to be changed? Controller, etc?

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by Hovernut

Thanks for the info. Does any thing else need to be changed? Controller, etc?

Depending on what controller you have it will need to be rated for 48 volts. The solenoid and a battery charger also will need to be 48 volts.

Some of the newer controllers are rated for both 36 are 48 but you need to check.