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Electric EZGO Electric EZ GO Marathon, Medalist, TXT and RXV. |
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09-04-2011, 01:40 PM | #1 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Renfrew Ontario, Canada
Posts: 37
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Lost all Power
Hi all;
I am what you say is a newbie. First time cart owner and first time on this foum. Anyway,I bought a 1994 36 volt EZGO electric cart. When I got it home I only drove it for about 45 seconds and it quit. I contacted the seller and he said too bed, it was running when I picked it up. I did notice that the seller put in a new solinoid. I don't know if that is my problem or not. Anyway, where do I start to trouble shoot? Also I have read about a tow switch. Where is it located? Thanks Andy |
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09-04-2011, 04:08 PM | #2 |
Gone Wild
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Florida
Posts: 516
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Re: Lost all Power
START HERE... Look at the Sticky threads. There are a bunch dealing with troubleshooting.
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09-05-2011, 12:44 AM | #3 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Lost all Power
Welcome to BGW
First, plug your cart's serial number into this website and it will tell you exactly what you have. (There are more than one type of "1994 36 volt EZGO electric cart") http://www.shopezgo.com/customer-ser...ialNumber.html If you don't know the serial#, scroll about halfway down the page to fund out where the ID tag ought to be. If the ID tag is missing, post pictures of cart and what is under the seat and somebody will ptobably be able to identify what it is. Second, measure the voltage of your battery pack. A fully charged 36V battery pack reads about 38.2V and a 50% discharged battery pack read 36.3V. Never discharge your batteries below 50%. If you don't have a DVM, get one. An inexpensive one ($20) is all you need. If the batteries are much below a full charge, put them on charge while you read the Stickies. The Run/Tow switch you're asking about is located on the controller cover. The controller is located in front of the wheel well under the passenger seat. My guess is that you have a series cart (meaning series wound motor) so you wouldn't have a Run/Tow switch. Since the solenoid has been replaced, you'll want to check all the wiring to see if it is correct. It ran, so it was pretty close, but something might have came loose. Sort of sounds like the seller knew what he was selling. Stick with it and we'll get it sorted out. |
09-06-2011, 08:27 PM | #4 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Renfrew Ontario, Canada
Posts: 37
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Re: Lost all Power
Thanks as350pilot;
I checked my cart out on the site that you sent me and I have a 1994 Electric medalist. It's an oldy, but a goldy. I hope to get time this weekend to do some testing on it. I don't have much time by the time I get home from work. The days are getting shorter now, so there is not as much daylight after supper. Hopefully someone will steer me in the right direction. I don't want to start replacing parts that I don't have to. that can run into a lot of $$$. Thanks again Andy |
09-06-2011, 08:35 PM | #5 |
Not Yet Wild
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Renfrew Ontario, Canada
Posts: 37
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Re: Lost all Power
Hi JohnnieB;
I have a 1994 Electric medalist. I hope to get time on the weekend to check out the cart to see if there may be a wire off or something. How can I tell if there is not something else burnt out? How can I tell if the new solinoid is not defective? So many questions. There is no golf cart machanic in this area that I can bring it to so I have to hope that some other carter in this Forum can help figure it out. Thank Andy |
09-07-2011, 12:01 PM | #6 |
Techno-Nerd
Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: West Virginia
Posts: 19,654
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Re: Lost all Power
Looking under the seat for the first time can be intimidating, but it can be broken down into a fairly simple block diagram and really isn't all that complicated.
1. A battery pack that supplies power to everything. You most likely have six 6V batteries wired in series to produce 36V. (Note: a fully charged 6V wet cell battery is about 6.37V, so the battery pack voltage is actually 38.2 V.) 2. A solenoid (aka as a power relay or contactor). Basically a heavy duty switch that connects high current from the battery to the motor via the speed controller. There are numerous switches that have to be closed to activate the solenoid. (IE: Key switch and micro switches on the throttle and Direction control) 3. Speed Controller (Commonly referred to simply as the controller) - Basically a dimmer switch on steroids. It limits how much current is fed to the motor based on how far the throttle is depressed. 4. Direction Switch (or F/R Switch). A heavy duty switch that changes the direct that current flows through the Stator. You have a series would motor, so the same current going through the armature also goes through the stator. Reversing the direction the current flows in either one in relation to the other, reverses the direction the motor turns. 5. Motor. converts the current from the battery into motion. Quick test: Turn Key on, move F/R switch to either F or R and push throttle. You should be able to hear Solenoid click. If it does, the switches are closed. From this point on, you'll need a Digital Multi Meter. Let us know if the solenoid clicks and what your battery pack voltage is and we'll go from there. John |
09-07-2011, 12:12 PM | #7 |
......................
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: FT Lauderdale FL.
Posts: 16,416
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Re: Lost all Power
Well JB covered it pretty well, like he said check that solenoid, sounds like the seller may have put a auto parts store 12v solenoid in it,
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