Taylor Dunn B210 Stopped Moving

[sikmusicfreak8]

I have 2 Taylor Dunn carts. The first being a B150. When I got it and put new batteries in it, I would hear the solenoid click with the throttle pressed, but no go. After some research, I replaced the actual accelerator module, fixed the problem...

Fast forward, picked up a 1986 B210. Put batteries in it, and everything worked. Drove it around the property for about 30 minutes, was slowing down up a slight incline, rolled backwards just a bit, hit the throttle, it jumped twice, then no more go.

So, I still hear the solenoids clicking, and seems I have the same problem my B150 had. So I swapped out the accelerator module from the B150 since it was the same, and still no go. Put the old B210 accelerator in the B150, and it works fine. So that's ruled out.

Although it didn't need it, I cleaned all wiring up, made no difference. So, I am almost certain the PCM is the culprit, but they are pricey so I want to make sure. Also, the module off the B150 is 275a, and the B210 is 400a so I was reluctant to install the 275a into the B210 for testing, what do you think?

Thanks guys, sorry for the lengthy post.

[izzybird]

https://www.industrialvehicleparts.c...-1986-1989.pdf
Should be a test procedure for the controller in there, among other things.

[sikmusicfreak8]

Been through that. I notice it refers to a circuit breaker, but I cant find one. The trouble shooting I have done tells me the accelerator pedal, but it isn't. I get B+ voltage at the motor when the accelerator is pushed, but no go.

[Lochlin]

Don't discount something with the motor itself. The test is simple. On your motor:

Connect the A2 terminal to the S1 terminal.

With a 12v (or less) battery, connect the + to S1 and connect the - to A1. This should cause the motor to spin. Reversing S1 and A1 should cause the motor to spin the opposite way. If it doesn't spin then your motor brushes are probably bad or something else down there.

Don't use the cart's whole pack to test the motor as it will arc too much.

[sikmusicfreak8]

Already tested the motor, its fine.

[izzybird]

I assume the controllers are both PWR-TRON II? If you went through all the tests in section 15, then I would try the controller you believe is good.

[sikmusicfreak8]

Its a Curtis unit 62-204-40. Doesn't look like the ones in the manual unless the manual shows the unit depicted underneath the cover.

I need to order a test light to follow the procedure in the manual.

But if I swap out the 400a unit with the 275a unit for testing purposes, you suppose that would be fine?

[izzybird]

Interesting, I guess the old pwr-trn was replaced. I think that’s just a Curtis 1204 or 1205 with Taylor Dunn’s name on it. I have a Taylor Dunn controller apart right now that is just a Curtis 1205 with the TD name on it. Try this manual starting on pg. 63 and see if it matches what you have better. https://www.industrialvehicleparts.c...-1994-2002.pdf
I would think swapping controllers would be fine, lift the rear tires off the ground so there is almost no load. Is the 275a controller a Curtis as well?

[sikmusicfreak8]

Yes sir, essentially same controller, just a difference in amperage.

[sikmusicfreak8]

That manual looks far more correct, but my serial number stamped on the frame beneath the driver seat falls into the 85-86 range... Very strange. Looks all factory with the plastic covers and everything over the solenoids and PMC, so doesn't seem to have been "updated".