O-I_C

[rib33024]

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[rib33024]

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[rib33024]

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[blue water massey]

A cple pics of my jeep YJ (mini me) G1
hope you like

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by Helirich

1. I was doing some thinking on this. (I know, dangerous)

2. It would seem like if I had a 400 XCT, it would preform exactly the same as my 500 XCT. (Because I'm not using more than 400 amps.)

3. When you say the "connections are pristine" , it draws 350 amps. What if they are not? Would it draw more or less?

4. I guess if they get hot, some amps are "burned" before they get to the controller.

5. So for example, if 50 amps is resistance at the connections and 350 is at the motor, does that mean I need a minumum of 400 amp controller? Or are you saying that if I have 50 amps resistance at connections, that I'm only using 300 at the motor?

1. SWMBO has told me I have the same affliction.

2. If your motor will not draw more than 460A (Peak output is amp rating plus 15% for XCT controllers) during WOT acceleration from a standstill on a steep incline, than the performance of a XCT400 and a XCT500 would be identical in your cart. (Assuming the same field map is used.)

Even if your motor was capable of drawing more than 460A, the only difference in performance would be at the low end of the RPM spectrum.

The max amps a DC cart motor can draw depends on the RPM it is spinning at and the voltage being applied. For example: If the max amps a sepex cart motor can draw at 2000RPM is 345A with a 48V battery pack, then there is no difference in cart performance with a XCT300, XCT400 or XCT500 when motor is spinning at 2000RPM and above. There will be a difference in performance below 2000RPM with the XCT400 and XCT500. Carrying it one step further, if that motor is capable of drawing 460A at 1500RPM, then there would only be a difference between the performance of a XCT400 and XCT500 when motor was spinning less than 1500RPM.

Of course, overkill is underrated, so I probably would have gone with a XCT500PDS if they had been available when I upgraded from a DCX500.
However, from the data I recorded from the DCX500, I saw only one instance my motor exceeded 460A and I had to work at creating a worst case scenario to do it, so a XCT400 meets my needs for my setup about 99.999% of the time and I didn't have to wait until Alltrax released the XCT500PDS to the marketplace.

3. The amp draw would be less due to greater resistance in the series loop.

4. Ideally, all the amps are converted to torque by the motor, but motors are mot 100% efficient, so some are converted to heat in the motor. Any amps converted to heat outside the motor are also wasted energy.

All the high current cables, connections and contacts have resistance and when amps pass through resistance they are converted to heat (Ohm's Law).

The MOSFETs in the controller have resistance, so they is a heat loss there also.

5. The batteries, cables, solenoid, controller and motor's armature are in a series loop, so armature amp flow is the same through all of them. (A SepEx motor system gets a little complicated because the Field current is in parallel with parts of the amp deliver system and in series with other parts, so let's just look at armature amps, which is in series with the high current loop.)

The amount of current a motor will draw depends on the RPM and Volts applied. The 48V battery pack is applying about 51V to the high current loop, but everywhere there is resistance in it, voltage is being dropped, so the the battery pack's full voltage is not being applied to the motor and the amps it draws is proportionally less.

Adding resistance in series with the motor is how a resistor drive cart works. It is the voltage dropped across the resistor coils not being applied to the motor, which reduces the amp draw of the motor, which in turn reduces torque and the cart's speed is lower.

The object is to minimize the resistance in the amp delivery system outside the motor.

[rib33024]

the pic and list in a G9 rear




and here is a G2


1 - Case, Transmission 1
2 - Bearing
3 - Bearing
4 - Bearing
5 - Oil Seal
6 - Oil Seal
7 - Cap 2
8 - Case, Transmission 2
9 - Bearing
10 - Bearing
11 - Bearing
12 - Oil Seal
13 - Gasket
14 - Bolt, Flange
15 - Bolt, Flange
16 - Pin, Dowel
17 - Plug, Straight Scrw
18 - Gasket
19 - Bolt
20 - Washer, Plate
21 - Clamp
22 - Bolt
23 - Washer, Spring
24 - Nut
25 - Shaft, Input
26 - Gear, Input 1
27 - Circlip
28 - Shaft, Counter
29 - Gear, Counter 1
30 - Gear, Counter
31 - Gear, Reverse
32 - Dog, Clutch
33 - Washer, Plate
34 - Washer, Plate
35 - Collar
36 - Case, Differential
37 - Gear, Ring
38 - Gear, Differential Side
39 - Pinion, Differential
40 - Pin, Differential
41 - Bolt, Washer Based
42 - Pin, Dowel
43 - Pin, Spring
44 - Shaft 2
45 - Gear, Idler
46 - Washer, Plate
47 - Bar, Shift Fork Guide
48 - Fork, Shift
49 - Pin, Spring
50 - Bolt
51 - Washer, Plate
52 - Spring, Compression
53 - Pin
54 - Lever, Shift 3
55 - Pin, Clevis
56 - Washer
57 - Pin, Cotter
58 - Washer, Plate
59 - Oil Seal
60 - Nut, U
61 - Shift Wire
62 - Lever, Shift
63 - Lever, Shift 1
64 - Pin
65 - Washer, Plate
66 - Pin, Cotter
67 - Knob, Shift
68 - Washer, Plate
69 - Circlip
70 - Nut, U
71 - Spacer, Input Shaft

[mrlmd]

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-c...ml#post1294543


If you don't have a meter you can rig up a test light like in this post ---
Measuring electrical system leakage current



To test the electrical system for unwanted loads draining power, shut everything in the car off. Do just like you would do things when parking the car overnight. make sure all the lights and accessories are off.

Remove the negative post wire and check current draw with all electrical loads off using a test light. (I made a test light from an old tail lamp bulb.)

The dull glow in the light filament indicates a current drain problem. At this point I do not want to connect a current meter to check leakage because the short could damage the test meter! If a small clear test lamp like this does not light, then it is generally safe to directly measure current drain with a test meter.

Measuring Parasitic Current Drain

With all electrical loads off connect the meter, on a low amperes scale of about 1 ampere or so, in series with the battery negative post to ground. The positive meter lead connects to the car chassis, and negative meter lead to the negative post of the battery.

A good electrical system battery drain

This is measured on the 20mA scale. The mA scale reads in thousandths of an ampere. My 1989 Mustang LX, after I changed a bad alternator diode, now has about 1.73 mA of battery drain. This drain is all from the EEC-IV computer memory. Different radios and different computers might have different standby drains, as might accessories like clocks, but in no case should "overnight off" leakage exceed 25 mA or so. 100 mA is like leaving a small interior dome light on!

My Kenwood stereo draws 1.5 mA when connected. If you have a digital clock that stays on, an alarm, or some other load this current will be higher. At 75 mA, leakage could compromise battery life of infrequently driven vehicles. mA is milliamperes, or one 1000th's of an ampere.



The meter above is on the 20 mA scale, and is reading 1.73 mA. That is nothing. The battery charge would probably last for months of sitting.

Bad battery parasitic Drain

If the test light lit, you will want to locate the wire loading the battery. First make sure all lights are off. You can do this by having someone open and shut things with lights, like the trunk, and watching for a define large load change. You should see a definite load change when shutting doors with lights, like the glove compartment.

Connect the test light in series with the negative post, and start pulling feed wires. The first to check is the heavy charging wire from the alternator. A bad or leaky diode in an alternator is a very common source of overnight battery drain.

Connect wires one at a time to see what lead is drawing current. In my case it was the alternator lead! Even though the alternator was charging fine, it was also draining the battery. My problem was a bad alternator diode. There could be a variety of other problems, like a bad voltage regulator or a stuck relay contact.

[rib33024]

,,,

[scottyb]

Can you identify the drive system from the chart below?
Sounds to me like the solenoid is not clicking (closing)

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by Gvernon

From the chart posted. It was a bit hard to read on my IPad.

I see this problem all the time, we post diagrams to help people and they can't read them on their phone or mobile devices. Frustrating on both ends. This site is best viewed on a PC.

Attached is the solenoid activation diagram for Ezgo series carts. Start at the charge receptacle and follow the red line all the way to the solenoid. You should have battery pack power at every point along the way. ie: F&R micro switch, key switch, pedal switch..... like that


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TXT48 or PDS F&R switch update with digital battery meter



http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/elect...ery-meter.html