Is a 36v to 48v swap possible

[nasfd35]

I just bought an old EZGO and the batteries need to be replaced and I was wondering if I can switch to 48v without burning something up. Also, it appear that I’ve bought a “Frankenstein” golf cart. A golf cart mechanic at a country club just told me that I have a Club Car roof and rear seat. This is the first golf cart I’ve ever owned, so I am 100% lost.
1986 EZGO 36V Marathon
Controller: Alltrax Inc NPX 4844
Motor: Advanced Motor and Drives

[Volt_Ampere]

Check the voltage spec on the Alltrax controller. If it's 48V or more, then you can easily switch your cart to 48V. Motor won't care. I am not familiar with that particular controller - I have two Alltrax for newer Yamaha carts and they can handle up to 60V.

[JohnnieB]

NPX is a non-programmable version of the AXE series drive controller.

The 48 means it can be operated with battery packs from 24 through 48V (60VDC max).

The last 44 means a 400A throughput and a short case length.

In other words, the controller is good to go for 48V.

You will need a solenoid that works at 48V, plus a 48V battery charger, plus a 48V battery pack.

If you go with six 8V batteries, you'll likely need longer interconnecting cables. (The terminals on 8V batteries are both on the same side and the cables used for 6V batteries aren't long enough.)

[nasfd35]

Originally Posted by JohnnieB

The last 44 means a 400A throughput and a short case length.

You will need a solenoid that works at 48V, plus a 48V battery charger, plus a 48V battery pack.

If you go with six 8V batteries, you'll likely need longer interconnecting cables. (The terminals on 8V batteries are both on the same side and the cables used for 6V batteries aren't long enough.)

Thanks for the info.
#1 how can I ensure I stay under 400A? Is that the batteries?
#2 copy on the solenoid
3# the mechanic mentioned something about needing new wires anyway. I was thinking about using 4ga.

[nasfd35]

Originally Posted by Volt_Ampere

Motor won't care.

Thank you
The motor has already been replaced in this cart. The date says 2015. I wanted to make sure I didn't burn it up.

[JohnnieB]

Originally Posted by nasfd35

Thanks for the info.
#1 how can I ensure I stay under 400A? Is that the batteries?

1. The number of amps drawn is determined by the motor RPM, mechanical load on the motor and voltage applied to the motor. The 400A rating of the controller is the max amps the controller will pass to the motor.

In a nutshell, the controller is a valve that limits the number of amps the motor can draw from the battery.

[Capt. Lenny]

Don't stop at 4 gauge cables, go to 2 gauge it won't cost much more.

[OhDannyBoy]

definitely go with 2ga cables if your replacing. something I learned is that different "eBay sellers " will advertise their various gauge cables by whatever set up you have i.e. 36v series, 48v etc. and price them as such. I've found that they all cut their lengths differently. I make sure to read the lengths instead of just the set up. I've been able to save a few bucks by buying cables for 36v even though I'm using them for 48v swap due to the length of the cable being long enough.

Also, I'd keep in mind what the cables are made from. welding wire vs copper stand.

[DubK]

Should probably get a heavy duty F-N-R switch too.. I was told they will burn up eventually using the stock one while upgrading voltages.

[scottyb]

Originally Posted by DubK

Should probably get a heavy duty F-N-R switch too.. I was told they will burn up eventually using the stock one while upgrading voltages.

Interesting but true fact. 48 volts uses less amperage thereby resulting in less unwanted heat at solenoid and F&R contacts than 36 volts...