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Old 10-27-2021, 12:34 PM   #1
torence20
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Default Cushman truckster?

I have what I think is a truckster. Data tags are long gone. It runs and drives great. Clutch needs work. Throw out bearing is shot and the clutch pins are worn almost completely off. Does anyone know what other equipment uses this clutch setup? I found a clutch kit but they are expensive. I doubt this clutch setup is proprietary to cushman. Also I see the throw out bearing hangers in the book. I can’t seem to understand how the are supposed to be. Book has no illustrations of it. Anyone got a picture of how they “hang” the TOB? Thanks
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Old 10-27-2021, 08:07 PM   #2
CharleyL
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Default Re: Cushman truckster?

Knowing the year or posting a couple of photos would help us narrow down the possibilities.

What engine does it have. OMC? or other? Water cooled or air cooled engine?

Charley
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Old 10-27-2021, 10:38 PM   #3
torence20
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Default Re: Cushman truckster?

Sorry about that I thought I did upload the pics
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Old 10-27-2021, 10:44 PM   #4
torence20
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Default Re: Cushman truckster?

Ok how do you get a picture I did the manage attatchments and picked a picture and hit upload and it won’t do anything after that
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Old 10-27-2021, 10:46 PM   #5
torence20
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Default Re: Cushman truckster?

It’s official I’m an idiot.
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Old 10-28-2021, 10:38 AM   #6
CharleyL
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Default Re: Cushman truckster?

OK, from the pictures, it looks like a 70's to early 80's model. The OMC engine makes it more likely that it is an early 80'smodel after OMC bought Cushman. OMC (Outboard Marine Company) designed their own engine and began installing them in the Cushman vehicles.

If you go to www.sillylittlecars.com. Then click on "Manuals" and then click on "Shop And Maintenance Manuals" in the text you will find two 826767 Cushman manuals for download. The "Supplement" is more valuable than the main manual. The main manual contains exploded diagrams and part numbers lists, mostly of parts that are no longer available (body and frame parts). The Supplement contains full information about the motor and electrical diagrams for all of the models that used the OMC engines. These two sections of this Supplement Manual are the most valuable when restoring these to operation. Motor parts are available from www.directparts.com and www.denniscarpentercushman.com. The engine is an 18 hp if the spark plugs are below center of the cylinders and 22 hp if they are above center. Both cylinders are identical. There is no right or left. Almost everything else on the engine is identical between the 18 and 22 hp as well. The 22 hp cylinders have higher compression for the increased HP. There was a one cylinder version of this engine too, intended for a model of Cushman scooter. Again, all parts are the same, but the missing cylinder opening in the crankcase is plugged to make a 1 cylinder engine.

The original fuel pumps are long since out of production. If you do find one it will be very expensive and won't last long because the rubber parts are old and brittle. It's best to replace it with an electric fuel pump which will maintain fuel pressure to the carburetor and doesn't need the bypass filter or return line back to the fuel tank. Direct connect from the fuel pump to the carburetor. Mount the electric fuel pump low and close to the level of the tank outlet. Also, be certain to add a good filter between the tank and inlet to the fuel pump. Two electric wires - Black to frame and red to the power wire coming from the key switch to the first coil. Connect it with a ring terminal at the coil. Discard the bypass filter and return fuel line to the tank. Plug the tank inlet. The fuel line should go direct from electric fuel pump outlet to carburetor. Your carburetor float is likely original and doesn't float as high as it should. Time to replace it, or the engine will run rich and fuel may come out of the float bowl vent.

If your fuel tank is rusty inside, you will have major and constant problems with rust plugging the filter or getting past it and killing the electric fuel pump and carburetor. A tank relining kit is available from KBS Coatings and from Amazon that contains an etchant to remove the rust, a cleaner, and a special epoxy-like coating. It isn't cheap, and will do a 5-6 gallon tank. It will take a few hours effort total, spread out over almost a week, to do this right, but the result is amazing, and it saves the original tank to last likely longer than you will. Have a means of plugging all of the inlets and outlets, since you will need to flip the tank frequently to clean and coat all sides, and some fat pipe cleaners to clean the inlet and outlet ports of the final coating before it hardens. A fuel cap that gets trashed afterward, plus an new fuel cap for afterward is recommended. A Christmas Candy Cane decoration consisting of a red and a white extra fluffy pipe cleaner that was twisted together, provided the cleaners for my tank inlet and outlet ports.

There will very likely be some leftovers in the kit, because each step involves adding the material, flipping the tank in every direction to coat all inside surfaces, and then draining the excess. None of this excess can be re-used, so even the lining material will go bad if saved, once the air gets to it. Be certain to clean the inlets and outlets after draining the coating material. Then set it in a position with all openings facing up and open while this coating material hardens (2 days is good). You will be amazed at the results. They should do this to every fuel tank as they are made.

Most of the other wear parts, steering, etc. are common automotive parts. Unfortunately, there is no cross reference for them. You need to take the old part with you and see if an experienced sales person can match it up from memory and by searching the shelves. They can't find it if they try searching via the computer because they have no cross reference to Cushman. Another place to try is the local forklift repair shop, because they serviced these when they were in common use. Here, the Cushman part Number may be of help.

Brakes are available from Directparts.com, as are the wheel cylinders. 1970's Ford F-100 truck brake cylinders and rebuild kits are the same, but a bump in the cylinder outside shape needs to be ground off to fit a Cushman. The Ford rebuild kits work fine, if the original cylinder can be honed to remove all pitting. New Cushman cylinders cost me $28 and are complete, so not worth rebuilding if you can get new.
The DOT3 brake fluid used is alcohol based, so absorbs moisture from the atmosphere via the master cylinder vent hole. It mixes readily with the alcohol and once sufficient moisture has built up, it begins rusting the brake system from the inside out. I spent significant time searching for a more modern sealed master cylinder, but failed to find anything that could be installed without major modification of the truckster. So I bought an identical replacement from my local forklift dealer, and vowed to replace my brake fluid every few years with new DOT3 fluid.

Getting the rear axle hubs off is a challenge, but much easier with the special blind threaded tool available that screws on and bottoms out against the axle end. You then strike this tool with a large sledge hammer to pop the hub free. If you try this without this special tool you will likely damage the axle threads, and the axles are difficult to find. The tool is reasonable at about $8. It worked to remove the flywheel from the motor too.

Cushman wheel lug spacing is slightly different than the wheels commonly available today. A machine shop can add new wheel lug holes of the correct Cushman spacing between the new wheel's existing spacing, to make it work for either spacing. Tires are readily available, but you want the high speed rated tires for trailers, etc. I bought my new tires from Northern. Larger tire stores may have them too and will put them on for you. I went with tubes because flat and falling off the rim tubeless tires are hard to fill away from home or a tire store.

I check in here almost every morning. Post again here if you should need more help.

Charley
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Old 10-28-2021, 11:32 AM   #7
ThreeCW
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Default Re: Cushman truckster?

Quote:
Originally Posted by torence20 View Post
It’s official I’m an idiot.


Thanks for the chuckle today Torence!

I have found that Vintage Golf Cart Parts has some good Cushman technical information and some Cushman parts too, so you may want to consider them also. I spoke to Roderick Wilde, the owner of VGCP, and he was able to find me some brake parts that were not listed on his website ... he too is a valuable resource.

CharleyL - Great post ... lots of good info in there ... I really enjoy your posts and appreciate you sharing your knowledge on Cushmans
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Old 10-28-2021, 07:02 PM   #8
torence20
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Default Re: Cushman truckster?

[QUOTE=CharleyL;1859765]OK, from the pictures, it looks like a 70's to early 80's model. The OMC engine makes it more likely that it is an early 80'smodel after OMC bought Cushman. OMC (Outboard Marine Company) designed their own engine and began installing them in the Cushman vehicles.

If you go to www.sillylittlecars.com. Then click on "Manuals" and then click on "Shop And Maintenance Manuals" in the text you will find two 826767 Cushman manuals for download. The "Supplement" is more valuable than the main manual. The main manual contains exploded diagrams and part numbers lists, mostly of parts that are no longer available (body and frame parts). The Supplement contains full information about the motor and electrical diagrams for all of the models that used the OMC engines. These two sections of this Supplement Manual are the most valuable when restoring these to operation. Motor parts are available from www.directparts.com and www.denniscarpentercushman.com. The engine is an 18 hp if the spark plugs are below center of the cylinders and 22 hp if they are above center. Both cylinders are identical. There is no right or left. Almost everything else on the engine is identical between the 18 and 22 hp as well. The 22 hp cylinders have higher compression for the increased HP. There was a one cylinder version of this engine too, intended for a model of Cushman scooter. Again, all parts are the same, but the missing cylinder opening in the crankcase is plugged to make a 1 cylinder engine.

The original fuel pumps are long since out of production. If you do find one it will be very expensive and won't last long because the rubber parts are old and brittle. It's best to replace it with an electric fuel pump which will maintain fuel pressure to the carburetor and doesn't need the bypass filter or return line back to the fuel tank. Direct connect from the fuel pump to the carburetor. Mount the electric fuel pump low and close to the level of the tank outlet. Also, be certain to add a good filter between the tank and inlet to the fuel pump. Two electric wires - Black to frame and red to the power wire coming from the key switch to the first coil. Connect it with a ring terminal at the coil. Discard the bypass filter and return fuel line to the tank. Plug the tank inlet. The fuel line should go direct from electric fuel pump outlet to carburetor. Your carburetor float is likely original and doesn't float as high as it should. Time to replace it, or the engine will run rich and fuel may come out of the float bowl vent.

If your fuel tank is rusty inside, you will have major and constant problems with rust plugging the filter or getting past it and killing the electric fuel pump and carburetor. A tank relining kit is available from KBS Coatings and from Amazon that contains an etchant to remove the rust, a cleaner, and a special epoxy-like coating. It isn't cheap, and will do a 5-6 gallon tank. It will take a few hours effort total, spread out over almost a week, to do this right, but the result is amazing, and it saves the original tank to last likely longer than you will. Have a means of plugging all of the inlets and outlets, since you will need to flip the tank frequently to clean and coat all sides, and some fat pipe cleaners to clean the inlet and outlet ports of the final coating before it hardens. A fuel cap that gets trashed afterward, plus an new fuel cap for afterward is recommended. A Christmas Candy Cane decoration consisting of a red and a white extra fluffy pipe cleaner that was twisted together, provided the cleaners for my tank inlet and outlet ports.

There will very likely be some leftovers in the kit, because each step involves adding the material, flipping the tank in every direction to coat all inside surfaces, and then draining the excess. None of this excess can be re-used, so even the lining material will go bad if saved, once the air gets to it. Be certain to clean the inlets and outlets after draining the coating material. Then set it in a position with all openings facing up and open while this coating material hardens (2 days is good). You will be amazed at the results. They should do this to every fuel tank as they are made.

Most of the other wear parts, steering, etc. are common automotive parts. Unfortunately, there is no cross reference for them. You need to take the old part with you and see if an experienced sales person can match it up from memory and by searching the shelves. They can't find it if they try searching via the computer because they have no cross reference to Cushman. Another place to try is the local forklift repair shop, because they serviced these when they were in common use. Here, the Cushman part Number may be of help.

Brakes are available from Directparts.com, as are the wheel cylinders. 1970's Ford F-100 truck brake cylinders and rebuild kits are the same, but a bump in the cylinder outside shape needs to be ground off to fit a Cushman. The Ford rebuild kits work fine, if the original cylinder can be honed to remove all pitting. New Cushman cylinders cost me $28 and are complete, so not worth rebuilding if you can get new.
The DOT3 brake fluid used is alcohol based, so absorbs moisture from the atmosphere via the master cylinder vent hole. It mixes readily with the alcohol and once sufficient moisture has built up, it begins rusting the brake system from the inside out. I spent significant time searching for a more modern sealed master cylinder, but failed to find anything that could be installed without major modification of the truckster. So I bought an identical replacement from my local forklift dealer, and vowed to replace my brake fluid every few years with new DOT3 fluid.

Getting the rear axle hubs off is a challenge, but much easier with the special blind threaded tool available that screws on and bottoms out against the axle end. You then strike this tool with a large sledge hammer to pop the hub free. If you try this without this special tool you will likely damage the axle threads, and the axles are difficult to find. The tool is reasonable at about $8. It worked to remove the flywheel from the motor too.

Cushman wheel lug spacing is slightly different than the wheels commonly available today. A machine shop can add new wheel lug holes of the correct Cushman spacing between the new wheel's existing spacing, to make it work for either spacing. Tires are readily available, but you want the high speed rated tires for trailers, etc. I bought my new tires from Northern. Larger tire stores may have them too and will put them on for you. I went with tubes because flat and falling off the rim tubeless tires are hard to fill away from home or a tire store.

I check in here almost every morning. Post again here if you should need more help.


Wow that’s a lot of good info. Thank you for that. I’ve used small electric fuel pumps on carburetors before but I’ve always added a bypass filter and a return to the tank. #1 is even tho they are rated from 2-4lb they are often more than that and I don’t want to overcome the needle and seat. And #2 with a bypass if the engine is sitting idle not using much fuel the pumps will heat up and that shortnens the life of the pump so with a bypass it’s constantly running cool fuel through the pump.
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Old 10-28-2021, 07:03 PM   #9
torence20
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Default Re: Cushman truckster?

Quote:
Originally Posted by ThreeCW View Post


Thanks for the chuckle today Torence!

I have found that Vintage Golf Cart Parts has some good Cushman technical information and some Cushman parts too, so you may want to consider them also. I spoke to Roderick Wilde, the owner of VGCP, and he was able to find me some brake parts that were not listed on his website ... he too is a valuable resource.

CharleyL - Great post ... lots of good info in there ... I really enjoy your posts and appreciate you sharing your knowledge on Cushmans
Thank you as well for your information. I was hoping to find a clutch assembly much cheaper but it doesn’t look like it’s gonna happen
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Old 10-29-2021, 09:54 AM   #10
CharleyL
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Default Re: Cushman truckster?

@Torence20,

Take your clutch to the nearby auto parts store, hopefully with an older guy who has been in the auto parts business for years. I'm pretty certain that the right old guy will be able to look at it and pull one off the shelf for you, and likely match the throw out bearing too. Cushman didn't make steering and drive train parts. They bought them. Unfortunately, there is no listing for where they came from, but they were very likely for cars or pickup trucks made a few years before your Cushman.

The flexible brake line to the front axle of my Truckster is the same as a 1981 Dodge D100 van and I installed it in my Truckster. The wheel brake cylinder rebuild kits are for 1970's Ford F100 pickups and the Ford cylinders are identical too, except for a bump in the outside of the casting that needs to be ground off. Steering knuckles were also from OEM parts, but since I haven't needed to replace them yet, I can't tell you what they were made to fit. Tail light lenses were off-the-shelf at the local ORiley auto parts store. I took in the broken one and they matched it up in a couple of minutes.

A local forklift service shop has been my alternate, when I failed at the auto parts store.
They had an identical brake master cylinder on the shelf and it cost me about 1/3 of what they are listed for on Ebay. They had the wheel cylinders in stock too. They ordered carburetor parts for my Keihin carburetor and had them in less than a week. They also had a fuel gauge sender, and although the float wire was a little long, the resistance of the sensor and the mounting plate was identical. An easily added "S" bend in the float wire made it the right length and it works perfectly.

If you do find an automotive clutch that fits, please post the Cushman number as well as the make and model vehicle that it also fits. I'm certain that others will be looking for this info. Please do the same for any other parts that you find.

The electric fuel pumps that I have experience with are pulse type and pump until pressure is built. Then an internal switch stops the pumping action until the pressure drops, so there is no power being drawn when at pressure, and no reason for them to heat up. The bypass filters are nothing more than a pressure relief valve because the original Cushman fuel pumps were positive displacement, so they would build too much pressure if the bypass filter was not installed. I found no reason to keep it when switching to the electric fuel pump that I installed. Unfortunately, I don't know the make or model number, but it came from O Riley Auto Parts. It clicks rapidly until pressure is built, and then clicks occasionally to maintain pressure. When I turn the key, I wait a few seconds for the fuel pressure to build and then engage the starter. First thing in the morning requires use of the choke, but the rest of the day the engine restarts without choke in about 1-2 revolutions.

Charley
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