G1 will not turn off

[AGELE55]

Originally Posted by Cmoore8

UPDATE, ended up pulling the starter apart and two of the brushes were stuck so I cleaned them, put it back together and that did the trick. It is running and driving now, but I believe I may end up replacing the starter or at least replacing brushes. I putted around the yard and checked everything after and the starter had smoke coming from underneath the cover next to the red/green wire. I am assuming that brush is stuck again or the starter has just had it. Any recommendation?

Well, it does sound like you’re getting close. Maybe you can pull the SG apart again and carefully go through it? A little WD 40 in there may help?.. and make sure everything is moving freely. I’d also replace the brushes if they’re available.

[Cmoore8]

Had to step back and take a break on working on the cart for a bit. I did end up replacing brushes on the old starter but I believe the armature was worn. Ended up putting a new SG on it that I had found on Amazon and put everything together and it ran/drove in forward and reverse. The new SG was still producing a little smoke coming out of the rubber grommets, and I parked it. I did notice the pulley sat lower on the new SG so the belt was a little loose. After adjusting the SG I tried to start it in both forward and reverse and it was back to spinning slowly, not enough to run in either direction.. I’ve reached out to a couple shops around the area as well and no one local works on them. I am not sure if which direction to go so any advice would be much appreciated!

[Lochlin]

If you bought a new S/G then it's probably ok. Yeah, the China ones on Amazon can be finicky but, being that your 'issue appeared on the OEM S/G as well, then your issue is probably somewhere else. A bit of smoke / smell upon initial running normal as dust and other contaminants burns off. I might trying going back to the basics.

It's possible that a bad connection / cable somewhere is faulty and periodically not allowing enough current to get to and from the S/G. Did you clean all of the "large wire" connections shiny bright? Also, you can use a jumper cable to easily test for a bad large wire. For example, per the wiring diagram, clip one side of a jumper cable wire on S/G A1 and the other side on the F solenoid and see what you have. If your cart now runs you know that cable is bad. You can do this for all of the fat cables.

[AGELE55]

Yep…. It reeks of a grungy fat wire. All the fat wires are used for both FWD and REV as well as both contactors.. BUT only one or the other contactor is energized, so I’m pretty sure they’re good. You may want to remove each fat wire and check them end to end for continuity as you flex them and look for erratic readings. Also as Lochlin suggested, simply bypass the one at a time.
They’re pretty easy to fabricate new ones. Just buy a chunk of battery cable and some end lugs and have at it. I usually squish the lug in a vise then “peen” it with a dull punch.

[Cmoore8]

Appreciate the considerations, It seems I blew off some of the basics lol. Considering it was running right before trying to adjust the SG I wrote a weak battery off. I decided to put it on a maintainer and I am back to running. The only problem now is the pulley is smaller than the oem which is causing it to spin freely and the belt is too loose. I am not sure if it is worth trying to pull the old pulley off or if there are any other options to consider.

[AGELE55]

I swapped pulleys on mine and don’t remember it being difficult.

[Lochlin]

Originally Posted by AGELE55

I swapped pulleys on mine and don’t remember it being difficult.

Me too. If you have an impact wrench / gun that pulley nut will come right off. If you don't have an impact wrench it can be a bit more tough as you have to figure out a way to not spin the armature when taking the nut off / on.

[Cmoore8]

That did the trick, thank you guys!. Now, where do we stand on oil injection bypass? I hear back and forth opinions and if you do recommend is there a forum on all the steps to do so?

[AGELE55]

I’m still running my oil injection. I verified it works by routing the oil hose into a small plastic bottle. I left it there as I ran a complete tank of gas mixed with oil. At fill up time I measured the oil, did the math and decided it was good to go.

[CP241]

Oil injection works great. Until it doesn’t.

You know it stopped working only when you lose compression, score the crap out of the piston and the cylinder, and have to rebuild the engine.

It’s cheaper, easier, and safer to just premix your own oil. I’ve owned a bunch of 2 stroke machines of various flavors and I’ve removed the oil injection on every one of them as soon as I got it. I’ve always been a big fan of Klotz but amsoil is good too and a lot easier to find.