SO CLOSE to moving!

[ACCLR8N]

So close. Very clean looking wiring set up.

[simicrintz]

Thank you, sir. Since I am not completely up and running yet I do have a few loose ends to cable tie and wrap still. Nobody will probably ever look under the seat, but my OCD does not let me to leave stuff alone!

[Sergio]

simicrintz, The only throttle types that will work without the negative return (Pin #14) are a 0-5v hall throttle or an ITS, neither one ever existed in a Club Car.

I tried to read the directions on that harness link you posted but it is so poorly written, full of grammatical errors and badly formatted as to be almost useless.

It also has many errors, for example this fragment about the dash negative accessory:

. Black wire (U) is a negative feed to the dash should you need to connect an accessory of some sort. Tape it up or con-nect ot M- on ther controller.

It looks like you don't have any extra wires on M-, so that is good.

That being said that harness should work for your application.

You going to have to contact B.U. or where you got the controller and adapter and find out two things:

In what cart was the 16-pin to 24-pin adapter supposed to be used.
How is the throttle on the 1268 configured.

I think What they sold you is an EzGo TXT to Curtis 1268 adapter.

[simicrintz]

It is frustrating, Sergio, and I agree that the instructions are garbage! And since I am not the strongest electrician, this has not helped (I can follow directions-I'm married!-but I am not super great at winging it!).

Note to others reading: I started this project before getting involved here, and made the mistake of not ordering from Site Sponsors (not a bash on BU, but just an observation and personal input). I am 100% sure that I would have gone another route had I been better educated and more involved here.

Thank you (as always) for hanging in there with me, Sergio! With the help that you have provided I know that I will get this figured out and moving!

EDIT: found this on BU's site:

Upgrade your older 36v model cart to a 48v Shunt Motor system while improving overall performance and run time.
Converts old regenerative braking carts (REGEN 1 or 2) to a programmable and efficient IQ system (Other carts to IQ...Call one of our knowledgeable Tech Support specialist for more info)

I will try and call them later (gotta get to work!).

[ThreeCW]

Originally Posted by simicrintz

I can follow directions-I'm married!-but I am not super great at winging it!

According to the 1268 manual (dated 2012 ... not sure if it is current) that I found online (attached for reference),:
"Various throttles can be used with the 1268 controller, including 5kΩ 3-wire potentiometers and 0–5V throttles. Some 1268 controller models are specifically designed to be compatible with ITS throttles."

What type of throttle do you have?

See page 10 and 11 for wiring information for your specific throttle.

[Sergio]

simicrintz, sorry if it was not clear, the Regen to IQ harness while not ideal will work.

The issue is specifically the 16-pin to 24-pin adapter as the wires appear to be for an EzGo TXT 48v with ITS throttle.

[simicrintz]

Thanks, fellas! I am going to try and get ahold of a tech at BU and see what I can get resolved.

Thank you both!!

[morvolts2]

if its only 2 wires involved cant you just shag a couple temp ones for testing,then if it works clean it up?

[simicrintz]

Just called BU and spoke to a couple of techs. I erroneously hooked what I thought was the battery charge wire off the harness to my shunt load, and they said that that wire setup needs to go to the controller B-. Apparently that is the "override" for the purple wire, which allows them to use this harness for multiple applications.

Hooked it up to B- and got all excited and pushed the pedal; same results...... They want me to check voltage down at the MCOR on my white, purple and green wires coming in but need me to depress the pedal in the process, so I need to wait for a helper or grow a few extra arms to do all of that at once!

Just some info; I will post in later if I get some help and some answers!

[simicrintz]

I'm baaaackkk.... So I took my MM out to check the MCOR. Disconnected the harness and went direct to yellow and white pin, meter at 20K Ohms. I get 5.44 and have been told that indicates a bad MCOR; sound correct? MCOR is brand new and Made in Mexico so should be the good one, right?

Before I get a new MCOR I just want to confirm here-drat!!!