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Old 10-21-2009, 03:48 PM   #1
Stretch660
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Default Question for the paint Gurus

Working on repairing the rear quarter of my G1 cart. Lost a back wheel that took a chunk out of the body. Got it glassed back on and then repainted it. It looks terrible. The paint I shot from the airbrush didn't match very well with the existing area. Now I'm going to resand the entire panel and reshoot the whole thing. My question is do I really need to reprime the area. I'm worried about building it up too high and it being obvious. Your thought are welcome. At work right now, hope to post some pics later.

Not to mention that when I reshot the clear I ran it all over the place because I didn't want to waste that last little bit. Live and learn.

Thanks.

Chris
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Old 10-22-2009, 03:50 PM   #2
master66
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Default Re: Question for the paint Gurus

Stretch
You do not need to re-prime the panel as long as you are carefull not to break through the clear when sanding it. If you break the clear typically you will end up with a ring in the new paint from the clear eating the edges of the saandthrough, in that case I would suggest a re-prime. So just be carefull on sanding it, when you say it turned out terrible what exactly do you mean by that. If you give me more info I can guide you through it.
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Old 10-22-2009, 10:11 PM   #3
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Default Re: Question for the paint Gurus

I would say you may need to prime it if you primed it when original painted. Certain colors come out different with different color primer or sealer underneath. The runs in the clear can be wet sanded and buffed to remove them.
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Old 10-22-2009, 11:49 PM   #4
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Default Re: Question for the paint Gurus

Guys, Thanks for the replies.

Here are a couple of photos of what I'm talking about.

BEFORE:


AFTER:






M66,

I think you nailed it. I wet sanded the edge of the base coat to get rid of the tape edge buildup. I feathered it into the clear from the original paint job. Thus, the weird ring around the repair. My airbrush also layed the paint down poorly, not smooth. You can't really see that from the photos, but it is obvious when looking down the panel.

Craig, Thanks for your input as well. I did do the razor blade technique on one of the runs, but I think in the big picture I'm just going to sand the panel back down to the original primer, then prime it and start from scratch (on that particular area) with the base and clear again. No airbrush this time, I'll use my original gun. There is a break in the panel which I think I can tape back to and it won't be too aparent what I have done.

I have never worked with base coat/CC before, so I'm still learning. Luckily I'm doing it with the paint I had left over and not having to go out and rebuy it all over again.

I will repost some pics after it's redone.

After reading this, if you have anything else to add I am all ears.

Thanks again......BGW and all you readers rule.

Chris
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Old 10-23-2009, 07:15 AM   #5
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Default Re: Question for the paint Gurus

Not the worst repair I've ever seen. Are you spraying the whole panel, or blending? In my experience, when doing metallic BC/CC, the whole job depends on getting the base coat down right. Try to look at the original paint and see how it was put down. A dry base coat ends up looking WAY different from a wet one. Even if you're spraying the same color, the difference in how it's put down will be like night and day, especially in certain lights. Don't sweat the clear. It's very forgiving. The ultimate goal is to NOT have to sand/polish it afterward but, even if you get runs/sags, they sand out easily. Just make sure to add enough to allow for how much you'll take off while sanding/polishing.
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Old 10-23-2009, 07:20 AM   #6
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Default Re: Question for the paint Gurus

I'm going to work it back to the transition in the body just below the reflector and sand it back to the priner and start over. What do you mean by dry vs. wet base coat? Is that how heavy it goes on or how long you wait before you clear it??

Chris
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Old 10-23-2009, 08:15 AM   #7
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Default Re: Question for the paint Gurus

Hey stretch
Really you already have a good base color to work with now so I wouldn't go back down to the primer.All you need to do now is sand it and perform what we call a blend, that is where you start spraying regular on the affected area and when you work outward just kind of start pulling the gun away and fog it as you go out, lighter and lighter the farther you go. This prevents the eye from picking up the color change because it is gradual and very drawn out.

Now you may have to work farther out on the panel than you want but that is the way it is done.I agree with you on going to the upper edge and you will want to go to about the center of the wheel well in that direction. Now with base clear system the clear coat is not designed to be stopped at anything but a seam, but you can do it to a body line with a taping tricks. If you would like to hold off for a bit I can take some pictures of what I am talking about, just let me know if you want the pictures.
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Old 10-23-2009, 08:41 AM   #8
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Default Re: Question for the paint Gurus

M66,

You are referring to repainting the base over the clear to feather the edge, correct? What about irregularity of the surface from the airbrush? It spit a bit and gave it a pebbly look compared to the other smooth paint. Do you think your feathering process can hide this? I won't be looking to tackle this before the weekend, so please do post some pics if you have the time.

Thanks.
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Old 10-23-2009, 08:55 AM   #9
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Default Re: Question for the paint Gurus

Sorry, anything I spoke of will not hide debris in the paint but hopefully you should be able to sand the clear smooth and remove any bumps or debris whithout breaking the clear. I will take some pics later and post them for you on the masking tricks.
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Old 10-23-2009, 08:58 AM   #10
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Default Re: Question for the paint Gurus

How do I tell if I broke through the clear?
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