Starting problem. Accelerator microswitch?

[ParCarparadiddle]

So my 2005 Columbia Par Car Eagle (gas, 13HP Briggs and Stratton) quit on me. Ignition key turns on and lights and horn work fine. But when I step on the pedal, I get nothing. No click, no sound….nothing. Battery tested fine. Doesn’t matter if it’s in Forward or Reverse, I get nothing. Working through the Troubleshoot portion of the manual, it seems that the accelerator microswitch is a potential cause. Manual suggested testing the microswitch directly. So I removed it for a bench test. Hooked up the common ground wire to NEG on the voltmeter and then I individually tested each of the other two wires (one is CONTINUOUS ON and the other is CONTINUOUS OFF on the POS wire of the voltmeter. So the continuity test showed the appropriate change in each wire when the switch is triggered. However, the resistance was not all the way down to zero when the two leads were supposed to be in continuity. My voltmeter consistently showed about 2 ohms of resistance in both wires. The manual does not explicitly say whether I should expect a true zero ohms when in continuity or if a low resistance of 2 ohms is acceptable. So does anyone know if that 2 ohms of resistance signifies that the switch needs to be replaced? Just FYI, I already replaced the voltage regulator and solenoid, which had no effect on the no-start problem. Thanks in advance for any help you can provide?

[Lochlin]

I don't know the 4 cycle Par Cars at all but your test seems a bit too exotic for. Really, the best test for the microswitch is to simply jump it. If the switch was bad, your cart will now turn over when the key switch is placed in F or R without having to depress the accelerator. If your cart still doesn't turn over then the switch is probably good and the problem is elsewhere.

[Tech Support]

Fyi 2 ohms is acceptable but Lochlin’s approach of simplicity is best.

[ParCarparadiddle]

Thanks for the input. I literally just finished fixing the Eagle when I read your suggestion about jumping the switch. So I ended buying a new accelerator switch and just installed it. Problem fixed. Interesting finding though is that when I compared the resistance of the old switch to the new switch, IT WAS THE SAME! So my bench test was useless. Jumping a switch is a very clever (and practical) test that I will definitely keep in mind the next time (God forbid) I have another no-start problem.