My New Harley Buggy

[Dabble Inn]

Yeah I like the mag rotor thing and I see it can be modified to fit mine, but then found the ignition module is not. So back to the point with conversion thing......

*All the points do in the conversion is take the place of the magnets. They start the spark process but don't determine when spark is delivered as the HEI module does that.*

Hmmm dingdang it, I thought I was beginning to understand lol. Wonder how the HEI module knows when to send the spark, But if it works it works so I guess that's all I really need to know

[jonr3]

I did the electronic ignition conversion on my '76 and it works great. It uses a magnetic pickup so it's very reliable and was easy to install and time using a timing light. I don't remember all of the details, but here are a couple of threads about it:

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-h...5-d-model.html

http://www.buggiesgonewild.com/gas-h...ld-thread.html

[Lochlin]

Originally Posted by Dabble Inn

Yeah I like the mag rotor thing and I see it can be modified to fit mine, but then found the ignition module is not. So back to the point with conversion thing......

*All the points do in the conversion is take the place of the magnets. They start the spark process but don't determine when spark is delivered as the HEI module does that.*

Hmmm dingdang it, I thought I was beginning to understand lol. Wonder how the HEI module knows when to send the spark, But if it works it works so I guess that's all I really need to know

Bad verbiage on my part. The HEI works by creating a spark that lasts much longer than a points one. An old cart guys once told me that an HEI spark lasts about 1/2 of the engine's rotation. I don't know if that's true or if he was just being dramatic, though.

In actuality, a better way to look at it is that points need to produce a spark a exactly the right time. The HEI produces a spark that lasts so long that it's always at the right time.

[Dabble Inn]

Ohhh ok, that makes sense to me now

[Dabble Inn]

Update;
I dug into it today, timing was way advanced and points were way wide so I set-reset-set again and reset again lol. It's on the gnats a$$, set it through the flywheel hole for both forward and reverse and reset the point gap again and again (.021). I'm confident it's where it should be although the factory marks on the points plate and housing are not lined up (about 3/16" advanced), I also checked the timing/points gap with the continuity method through the points open/closed with the marks on the flywheel. It's perfect, good timing mark in both directions when points begin to open.......

Also, the carb adjustment screw was at 3/4 turn so I move it to 1-1/2. No diff.

Compression is 88psi

I ran it with the rear wheels off the ground and it still runs terrible in forward but much better in reverse, crank feels tight in bearings. Would Could crankshaft seals let it run like that?

[Dabble Inn]

2nd update;
Tore into it further, I'm guessing there should be some kind of insulator block between carb gasket and manifold? This has three rather thick gaskets (as pictured) probably to make up for what would be a gap on the other end of carb onto the air filter horn? I think I'd rather mount it with just one gasket and figure out a way to fill the gap between intake side of carb and air filter horn, maybe double up on the rubber seal there? What do yous suggest?

Also, there was no gasket between reed plate and manifold. Just a bunch of red silicone gasket maker, probably not a good seal there and I'm going to order both sides of the reed plate gaskets (as I see there is a slight difference in the two) and new reed valves just cuz they're still available and cheap enough

[Lochlin]

Oh yeah, you have some good ole fashioned mickey mousing going on there. I did a cart like that ones. They had that orange gasket maker everywhere...head, carb manifold, read, etc. I guess a previous owner didn't want to take the time to wait for parts to arrive.

For sure, you should only have only one of those thick gaskets, not three. Having 3 increases by 3 the possibility of air leaks. With the air horn, can't you just get a longer hose from the filter canister to the carb or am I missing something? I thought the only place one of those gaskets things could go was between the carb and reed.

Regarding the "runs better in reverse" I don't believe crank seals can cause that. If it's drawing enough fuel in reverse it has to be drawing enough for forward as well. I hate to say this but that's normally a timing thing still. I know you have things spot on but spot on can vary from cart to cart.

I am convinced that one of my 85s can't be timed with points although I know that's not logical. Before I converted it I spent hours and hours trying to get it timed right. It would run ok but not great. I gave up on it. I have a different '85 that timed great in like a minute. I still converted it though.

[Dabble Inn]

Ok good to know, Thanks. I found a spacer block for the newer Columbia buggy with the normal type Walbro float bowl carb but with separate fuel pump, I think it has the same bolt pattern but no pulse hole. I'm going to try it and drill a pulse hole through it and use a regular gasket on each side or maybe with one of these thick ones too. It's 5/16" thick which is about what these three gaskets measure lol......

Yeah I had a feeling this thing has been cobbled up when I saw those three gaskets, and also when it has bolts rather than studs for the entire carb/manifold/air horn mounting......

There is no hose between the air filter to carb, I took these pics to give yous an idea what this structure looks like and how it goes together. It all just sort of clamps itself to the case lol, very strange design IMO. But the intake side of the carb simply gets crushed up against that big rubber washer in the air horn housing......

My final conclusion on all that is someone before me didn't have the spacer block so the original studs with the sleeves were too long so they used shorter bolts and probably cut a bit off the spacer sleeves to bring everything closer together, UGHH!!

That's one hazard ya take when getting a forty one year old machine that's been through a lot of amateur hands, But I'll figure out a way to get it back together tight....

You make sense about the crank seals, If it runs in reverse pretty well than they should be ok and probably is still a timing thing UGHH!!. Perhaps that big fuel leak scare wasn't the seal leaking after all but rather leaking through those three gaskets lol, I can blow into the fuel intake on the carb fairly easily so I ordered up another. Dang, Welcome to the Harley world

[Dabble Inn]

Update #3

Well, things got worse. The clutch has issues that can be overcome with parts still available but worst of all the taper on the crank where the inner sheave of the clutch lives is trash, There is no keyway left but instead just an area of wore down gone-ness where is used to be. Crankshaft end play is about .035", I was going to split the case and install new crank bearings/seals and add some shims to get it back to specs of .001" to .005". Not sure what to do now as I can't find a replacement crankshaft, Anyone know where one might be available?

Perhaps it's time to start looking for a snowmobile engine to save it or just part it out to get my investment back

[raydhd]

Try Vintage carts.