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Old 05-14-2022, 10:45 PM   #11
Tom47
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Default Re: IQ conversion done (maybe)

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Originally Posted by Ger42 View Post
I can't say it enough the man is fantastic.
You've got that right!

I hope that solenoid is the solution to your problem so you can get back on the road again.
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Old 05-17-2022, 04:16 PM   #12
Ger42
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Default Re: IQ conversion done (maybe)

I screwed something up big time. installed new solenoid hooked up power and big spark wires fried up.



BEE126EC-A52C-4AF9-895C-54E66F371419.jpg


Wife's comment " this time it's going to cost you $$ ".
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Old 05-17-2022, 04:29 PM   #13
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Default Re: IQ conversion done (maybe)

I'm sorry, that the last thing I wanted to see here. It looks like the run/tow switch was still in run when the cables were connected - as it was when you pushed the cart. How far did you say you pushed the cart home?
Can you post an areal photo of the battery pack showing both the main + and - posts?
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Old 05-17-2022, 08:33 PM   #14
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Default Re: IQ conversion done (maybe)

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I'm sorry, that the last thing I wanted to see here. It looks like the run/tow switch was still in run when the cables were connected - as it was when you pushed the cart. How far did you say you pushed the cart home?
Can you post an areal photo of the battery pack showing both the main + and - posts?
Run tow was in tow I installed the switch backward

I pulled the middle batteries. I'll put them in tomorrow morning
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Old 05-17-2022, 10:02 PM   #15
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Default Re: IQ conversion done (maybe)

this is a picture of the battery pack when I was testing this weekend

Run tow toward passenger side is on, towards driver is off. F054E01D-4128-4A1B-912C-10970502197C.jpg
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Old 05-18-2022, 06:50 AM   #16
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Default Re: IQ conversion done (maybe)

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this is a picture of the battery pack when I was testing this weekend

Run tow toward passenger side is on, towards driver is off. Attachment 229710
I was hoping for a picture of the pack when the accident happened..so we could try to see what the heck happened.

There had to be more going on than the Run/Tow switch being on when connected. There was a direct short in the high amperage side of the system.
Like #1 cable to the battery main neg instead of the main + or such to cause as much damage to the wire harness as you showed in my email. Is the Alltrax fuse still intact? They are super slow burn, I suspect it is.
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Old 05-28-2022, 04:51 PM   #17
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Default Re: IQ conversion done (maybe)

It's alive
I just completed repairs and finished installing the controller/solenoid & harness in my test cart.
Controller and solenoid survived. The wire harness had minimal damage, easily repaired. The cart should be back up and running this coming week.
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Old 05-28-2022, 10:08 PM   #18
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Default Re: IQ conversion done (maybe)

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Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
It's alive
I just completed repairs and finished installing the controller/solenoid & harness in my test cart.
Controller and solenoid survived. The wire harness had minimal damage, easily repaired. The cart should be back up and running this coming week.
If the old man putting it together doesn't F it up.
I'll do tests you asked for. When I do put it back together I will triple check every connection with the printed instructions any doubt I'll ask! Make sure every connection is tight and connectors are stacked as instructed.

Last step when connecting to the Battery Pack the sequence is????

POS + then NEG -

OR

NEG - then POS +

ScottyB thanks
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Old 05-29-2022, 10:52 AM   #19
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Default Re: IQ conversion done (maybe)

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If the old man putting it together doesn't F it up.
I'll do tests you asked for. When I do put it back together I will triple check every connection with the printed instructions any doubt I'll ask! Make sure every connection is tight and connectors are stacked as instructed.

Last step when connecting to the Battery Pack the sequence is????

POS + then NEG -

OR

NEG - then POS +

ScottyB thanks

I don't think it matters much. I like to connect negative last. And I do make a quick touch test to see if there will be any sparks rather than just putting the cable on the stud. Which can be very hard to remove when it's welding itself on So use just a quick touch of the cable to the post base (not the threads) in case you have a problem. If there is a problem you spark the base and not screw up the stud threads.
I'm pretty convinced that your problem was in the dash as the only wire to actually burn up was the negative dash lead for the meter etc.
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Old 05-29-2022, 06:15 PM   #20
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Default Re: IQ conversion done (maybe)

ScottyB on it again.

I F$$K it up I connected the negative meter lead to a voltage reducer thinkingh it would trigger the reducer to turn on when the key was turned. I had my own meter installed didn't install his. It completes the circuit with a NEG line not a positive. Voltage meter wants POS.
Sometimes knowing just a little makes you a dumb ***.

The only thing different when I installed the replacement solenoid was the addition of the voltage reducer.

I relearned something I followed when I was programing computers, if you have a bug don't add another level to the fix just test the fix.

Also when making a change on something you are not experienced with ask questions before you proceed.

Quote:
Originally Posted by scottyb View Post
I don't think it matters much. I like to connect negative last. And I do make a quick touch test to see if there will be any sparks rather than just putting the cable on the stud. Which can be very hard to remove when it's welding itself on So use just a quick touch of the cable to the post base (not the threads) in case you have a problem. If there is a problem you spark the base and not screw up the stud threads.
I'm pretty convinced that your problem was in the dash as the only wire to actually burn up was the negative dash lead for the meter etc.
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